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Old 01-14-2021, 06:16 PM   #1
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Remove mattress from 19'

I plan to remove my mattress temporarily to do some work (add insulation under plywood and paint plywood with mold/mildew paint). Any tips on picking up and moving the mattress out of the bed area, then putting it back? Don't want to damage the cover thingy's that stick out about 3/4"
Thanks!
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Old 01-14-2021, 07:49 PM   #2
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Carry

Two people, compression lift with both hands about one third of the way down, strong hands and arms. Secure the door open. Take your time. For the 19 we had a gel foam topper and the mattress which we removed and put back in each spring and fall. No tricks, just work. Ours was a 2010, I don’t think they were as thick as they are now. Maybe a couple
Roller dollies from Harbor Freight.
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Old 01-14-2021, 08:33 PM   #3
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Are you planning on leaving it in the trailer? Like maybe all the way forward and leaned against the drivers side 'wall'?
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Old 01-15-2021, 04:14 PM   #4
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Not sure what you mean by a compression lift. Wondering how to lift and angle the mattress out of it's cubby hole, due to the narrow opening.
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Old 01-15-2021, 04:16 PM   #5
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Probably leave it inside, unless I decide to work on the dining area also. I just need to access the plywood platform, probably going to unscrew it to add insulation underneath, than paint the mold/mildew paint on top
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Old 01-15-2021, 04:24 PM   #6
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What I meant was turn the mattress on edge and squeeze
It from both the top and bottom and lift it. That’s how we carried it. Rita tells me that out
2010 Mattress was thinner and not very stiff so we could bent it significantly so it would fit through the opening. I haven’t been in or looked at the mattress in the new 19s. Sorry.
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Old 01-15-2021, 04:26 PM   #7
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Got it, squeeze and lift. I hope there is enough flexibility in the mattress (my flexability is not what it used to be).
Thanks for the tips!!
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Old 01-15-2021, 04:42 PM   #8
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I've got to do this in about two weeks, so watching this thread closely.
Painting deck, new water pump, and Ikea bed platform install, new mattress.
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Old 01-15-2021, 05:12 PM   #9
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The other item I will be adding is this (amazon). Met a guy at the Ft. Casey Escape Gathering last year and he had one like it. Allows air to flow under and to the walls to help prevent condensation.


Den-Dry Mattress Underlay-Queen
Brand: Ravenwolf Marine
4.7 out of 5 stars 217 ratings
Price: $99.95 & FREE Shipping
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Old 01-15-2021, 07:28 PM   #10
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I grab the rear passenger corner and lift up and towards the stove as I back off the mattress.

The front passenger corner will follow and clear the plastic back stabbers on the window. As you pull the passenger end through the hole via the stove front, make sure the table has been removed and slide it into the dining room drivers side.

If you have an oven with front controls, make sure the mattress has not turned on the gas.

Getting the spring loaded mattress back in without hitting any of the plastic back stabbers is the trick. No worries though as you don’t need the plastic things anyway.

We put our mattress cover on before we reinstalled it.

Good luck!
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Old 01-15-2021, 07:48 PM   #11
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It all comes back to me now. Yup, that’s about the technique. On the 21 we have the Casper mattress. It is pretty unwieldy. We’ve never removed it from the trailer but we have tipped it up and slid it “down the hall”. That dog is heavy but comfortable. I worked hard lto make our pole building mouse proof after we bought the 21. No tracks, no damage, no evidence of vermin. Picked up a stray cat on the camera the other night, good deal. I would like to live trap a couple weasels and import them. Best mouse control ever.
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Old 01-15-2021, 09:06 PM   #12
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Having moved the mattress twice in our 21NE, alone, I have to tip my hat to the folks at ETI in their skill installing the mattresses in our trailers.
Of course doing it several times a week would make one well experienced I'm sure, and having a younger pair of hands to assist would be more valuable.

A task best done in the late fall or early spring in cool dry weather.
With no children around to learn new words from senior frustrations.
A form of exercise that is used by contortionists, yoga adherents or wrestlers that were on Saturday television.
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Old 01-15-2021, 10:49 PM   #13
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Several new word combos here at the house today. The air did not moderate enough to melt
the snow that was not deep, just a wet and heavy snowblower plugger. I tried to warm the air, no luck.
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Old 01-16-2021, 07:37 PM   #14
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It worked! Not to finish the job, then put the mattress back, without breaking my back. Many thanks for the tips!
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Old 01-16-2021, 11:47 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jkcoug View Post
It worked! Not to finish the job, then put the mattress back, without breaking my back. Many thanks for the tips!
Did you remove it from the trailer or just slide it up front?
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Old 01-17-2021, 07:09 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Iowa Dave View Post
It all comes back to me now. Yup, that’s about the technique. On the 21 we have the Casper mattress. It is pretty unwieldy. We’ve never removed it from the trailer but we have tipped it up and slid it “down the hall”. That dog is heavy but comfortable. I worked hard lto make our pole building mouse proof after we bought the 21. No tracks, no damage, no evidence of vermin. Picked up a stray cat on the camera the other night, good deal. I would like to live trap a couple weasels and import them. Best mouse control ever.
Iowa Dave
We have 5 Ferrell cats that adopted us we were a able to catch them n get them fixed. Havent seen a rodent since in or around house or trailer barn

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Old 01-18-2021, 09:22 PM   #17
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Why are some of you painting the plywood inside the trailer for mold? Is this an issue? I wonder if you could put 2 or 3 ratchet straps around the mattress while folding it to assist with moving it?
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Old 01-19-2021, 01:08 PM   #18
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The ply is very raw, splintery untreated wood. I’m not painting the ply for mold, but not a bad idea. I’m painting it to seal the wood and help protect the underside of the cushions, etc. You should see how much gets soaked up on the first coat.
Also, the black that shows looks much better than the raw ply.
I thought about the straps yesterday and am going to try it when I remove mine. I’ll report back if it helps.
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Old 01-28-2021, 09:33 AM   #19
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I have removed and replaced the mattress on my 2018 19 using the fold and compress method. In the process, I must have "sprung" a spring or two so the mattress now has a large low spot and a lump or two. Still comfortable though so it's staying in place for now!
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Old 01-29-2021, 03:57 PM   #20
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Considered all of this before the purchase of the 5.0 TA. Proved to be not needed in my case after consideration. Here's why and a suggestion. The Escape is very well insulated between the fiberglass and any interior wall. About 3 inches of insulation of three differing types. (recently had to drill a vent pipe and found this impressive) Adding a Froli bed system under the mattress eliminated the need for paint, allowed for plenty of air circulation, solved any mattress lump issues (mentioned in string) and very significantly improved the comfort of the whole system. I elevated the mattress with blocks and 2x4's and simply slid the system underneath in order to avoid any unnecessary compression on the mattress, but it does move to the pantry with patience a bit of sweat. The stock mattress is heavy. Nickel Atlantic sells the Froli in the US.
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