Road debris damage to fiberglass underbody

[Mike G]

Why didn't (or don't) you file an insurance claim? What's your deductible? The rest is covered. That is what you have insurance for, isn't it?

[Ron in BC]

Originally Posted by wr9r

Update information:

For that amount of money I can buy equipment, supplies, and get lots of practice before doing the job myself!

To put it perspective, you'd be hard pressed to spend a $100 on materials and that's probably way high. For a pro, a couple of hours, as a learning experience, longer but gaining a skill useful to owning a f.g. trailer.

There's no reason not to end up with an invisible repair.

Ron

[Chasing Trials]

Originally Posted by Ron in BC

To put it perspective, you'd be hard pressed to spend a $100 on materials and that's probably way high. For a pro, a couple of hours, as a learning experience, longer but gaining a skill useful to owning a f.g. trailer.

There's no reason not to end up with an invisible repair.

Ron

I agree with Ron. Search Youtube, if the supplier's site doesn't have a video on working with fiberglass. Being road debris, the hole has to be in a spot that doesn't show much. When a sheet rocker taught me to tape. He said, "start inside the closests!!"


Should have enough materials to do a practice somehow, 1st.

[Ron in BC]

Actually I've seen some of the videos on youtube and it seems like some folks are learning how to do it while learning themselves.

There's been so many incidents like this over the years that I'll make a video also rather than answer questions piecemeal. Including a demo of old fashioned cello finishing, a way to get perfect results.

That's after I get home, whenever I get home. Right now I'm at the Barbados airport and just found out that YVR is closed due to thundersnow.

Ron

[HABBERDABBER]

Ron in BC has excellent & hard won advice, coming soon, and here's mine.

If you have access to the interior area of damage, you can rough up the fiberglass surface with 60 grit sandpaper, wipe that area down with IPA (rubbing alcohol.)
A courser weave of fiberglass cloth patch can be used here. Boat shops, auto shops have it available. Tape off the exterior portion of damage so resin doesn't bleed out.
I've used WEST Systems and System 3 epoxy. Available at WEST Marine (no relation) or Woodworkers Supply. If you call WEST Systems, they have very good technical advisors that can guide you through the process and provide product recommendations. They have been around for decades, have a wide range of epoxy materials and formulations. I'd go there first. They have a lot of on-line info and repair instruction. Systems 3 is fine stuff, I just have less experience with them, but I've used their epoxy.

Wet out your interior patch and repair surface, use an oversized patch, wait for some set-up and brush on another coat or 2 and maybe another bit of patch material,

For the exterior, you'd need to grind away around the damage and have a beveled patch area. Thinner near the opening, thicker and less removal going outwards from the damaged area. A patch of fiberglass cloth there, maybe 2, with the 2nd smaller in size than the 1st.

Marine-Tex is an off white, 2 part epoxy that also could be used for the exterior filling. Test some somewhere to see how well it matches to your existing gel coat.

Space, and tired, cracked fingers prevent me from describing everything, but this could get you looking at products and procedures for your repair, if you choose to do it.

[quidoi]

Oh ouch -- just take your time and watch some youtube videos... wear a mask especially while sanding.... fumes are toxic.... when i got my 2020 ... i actually ordered the 3m clear bra material -- and installed on both wheel wells --- works great for just wiping off bugs and road grime on front of cars and protects on rock dings.... so far so good but something like this i would doubt it would have helped --- good luck...

[wr9r]

Thanks for all the encouragement. This is going to be a Jan/Feb/early Mar project -- I presume based on temperature. I can get a blower/heater to warm up that section underneath the trailer.



I had thought about using welding blankets and plastic drapes to cordon off the immediate area within our storage stall to control the dust (guessing that part of it will be like sanding drywall) during all the prep.


All the prep could be done in the cold while laying on my back in a tyvek suit and mask, but I'm guessing 55 degrees or so for the fiberglass / epoxy work. Am I on the right track?


Anyhow, the grand kids will get my attention for the next few weeks until they go back to school.

[HABBERDABBER]

The set-up and cure times are greatly temperature dependent. 55F will work, but be slow. In 80F+ climates, there are slow hardeners to slow the process down. You won't need that in your temps.

Do your homework on the repair process well, and you'll do well.

[MyronL]

Bought an old Scamp, required four ugly repairs which I tackled. Actually enjoyed the learning process. You can do it.

[Ron in BC]

Originally Posted by MyronL

Bought an old Scamp, required four ugly repairs which I tackled. Actually enjoyed the learning process. You can do it.

Our Q'site repair didn't work out too badly either.

I prefer doing an all polyester repair, resin and gelcoat but the alternate materials will work also.

Me, hard won lessons? Like how to place a 3' x 3' heavy soping dripping resin layup overhead while laying on my back.

No f.g. work or demo from me any time soon. Worst nightmare came true. Now stuck in Toronto until at least Xmas eve.

Ron

[lonewolfjb]

Originally Posted by wr9r

Update information:


When I contacted Escape to see what type of resin and mat to use on the fiberglass repairs, they did not answer my questions, but suggested going to a boat repair facility or an auto/RV center that are familiar with such repairs.


Senior Member Willy B suggested I check with Crain Collision Center of Conway (AR) for fiberglass repair. After looking at the trailer, here is their estimate:
- - - - - - -
Body Labor 17.0 hrs @ $165.00 / hr $2,805.00
Paint Labor 15.0 hrs @ $165.00/ hr $2,475.00
Paint 15.0 hrs @ $50.00/ hr 750.00
Body Supplies 17 hrs @ $10.00/ hr 170.00
Total $6,200.00
- - - - - - - -
I about choked when I saw the total, so I stopped by to see if there was any room to negotiate on the basis of total hours or cash payment. After all, I thought fiberglass repair involved layering, and each layer would not require an entire hour. They apparently bill for a whole hour even if only part of an hour is actual work. Bottom line – no negotiation – take it or leave it.


For that amount of money I can buy equipment, supplies, and get lots of practice before doing the job myself!


Are the hours estimate and the charges involved reasonable? I have attached another photo that shows the size of the hole in the fiberglass underneath the trailer behind the left rear tire.

For that kind of money, I would fly to and from Ar and do it for you. Like you said, get a couple of pieces of plywood and do a couple of test patches. You can do this.

[Chasing Trials]

Originally Posted by Ron in BC

No f.g. work or demo from me any time soon. Worst nightmare came true. Now stuck in Toronto until at least Xmas eve.

Ron

OH NO! Try to stay warm.

[sofmerc]

Originally Posted by Ron in BC

Our Q'site repair didn't work out too badly either.

I prefer doing an all polyester repair, resin and gelcoat but the alternate materials will work also.

Me, hard won lessons? Like how to place a 3' x 3' heavy soping dripping resin layup overhead while laying on my back.

No f.g. work or demo from me any time soon. Worst nightmare came true. Now stuck in Toronto until at least Xmas eve.

Ron

I agree! I have used both and they both have their place but would use poly on this repair..

[Gingerdog]

Originally Posted by HABBERDABBER

Ron in BC has excellent & hard won advice, coming soon, and here's mine.

If you have access to the interior area of damage, you can rough up the fiberglass surface with 60 grit sandpaper, wipe that area down with IPA (rubbing alcohol.)
A courser weave of fiberglass cloth patch can be used here. Boat shops, auto shops have it available. Tape off the exterior portion of damage so resin doesn't bleed out.
I've used WEST Systems and System 3 epoxy. Available at WEST Marine (no relation) or Woodworkers Supply. If you call WEST Systems, they have very good technical advisors that can guide you through the process and provide product recommendations. They have been around for decades, have a wide range of epoxy materials and formulations. I'd go there first. They have a lot of on-line info and repair instruction. Systems 3 is fine stuff, I just have less experience with them, but I've used their epoxy.

Wet out your interior patch and repair surface, use an oversized patch, wait for some set-up and brush on another coat or 2 and maybe another bit of patch material,

For the exterior, you'd need to grind away around the damage and have a beveled patch area. Thinner near the opening, thicker and less removal going outwards from the damaged area. A patch of fiberglass cloth there, maybe 2, with the 2nd smaller in size than the 1st.

Marine-Tex is an off white, 2 part epoxy that also could be used for the exterior filling. Test some somewhere to see how well it matches to your existing gel coat.

Space, and tired, cracked fingers prevent me from describing everything, but this could get you looking at products and procedures for your repair, if you choose to do it.

I agree, most of the work should be do from the back side.
No one will see the mess back there.

[MyronL]

And here I thought Toronto never got any snow because it all went to Buffalo. Happy Christmas eve, Ron.

[Ron in BC]

Originally Posted by MyronL

And here I thought Toronto never got any snow because it all went to Buffalo. Happy Christmas eve, Ron.

I'd rather do a mega f.g. repair than go through what happened there. Fought to get the change to Denver today. But big storm coming so we fought to get a standby. By some miracle we got a flight to Vancouver. M. was last passenger on.

So we're home to huge snowfalls here, over a foot of snow on the trailer.

First job, dig down to grass for a pee spot for Gertie. The snow is twice as high as she is.

Merry Xmas all,

Ron

[TTMartin]

Originally Posted by wr9r

Crain Collision Center of Conway (AR) for fiberglass repair. After looking at the trailer, here is their estimate:
- - - - - - -
Body Labor 17.0 hrs @ $165.00 / hr $2,805.00
Paint Labor 15.0 hrs @ $165.00/ hr $2,475.00
Paint 15.0 hrs @ $50.00/ hr 750.00
Body Supplies 17 hrs @ $10.00/ hr 170.00
Total $6,200.00
- - - - - - - -
. . .

Are the hours estimate and the charges involved reasonable? I have attached another photo that shows the size of the hole in the fiberglass underneath the trailer behind the left rear tire.

No that estimate is not reasonable. Nor is the concept of painting the gelcoat. I wouldn't let them near the trailer even if the estimate was reasonable.

In the past when requested you could buy matching gelcoat from Escape.

[J1973s]

I just did a google search, there are several boat repair places in Conway or North Little Rock. I recommend contacting them re the repair. It’s the off season so you should get a reasonable bid re the work. If you do it yourself, there are some good tips here. Personally I’ve owned sailboats and two Sunrader fiberglass motor homes and done minor to semi major repairs, there’s not much to it. If you make a mistake, just get out the sander, remove the mistake and do it over. I would paint the repair area after a finish coat of bondo to seal the imperfections.

There are some good you tube vids on spot auto or boat painting. One fellow is Chris Fixx and his spot painting vid is excellent. I’ve done some good work with his techniques.
Good luck!

[Ron in BC]

Originally Posted by J1973s

There are some good you tube vids on spot auto or boat painting. One fellow is Chris Fixx and his spot painting vid is excellent. I’ve done some good work with his techniques.
Good luck!

There's absolutely no reason to do this. Even a first timer can use a polyester filler and polyester gelcoat to do a perfect repair. It doesn't make sense to use paint except in cases where the gelcoat is so old and damaged that, after repairs, the whole trailer is painted.

Ron

[wr9r]

A fitting end for our road damage saga.


The first estimate for repairs to our Escape came from a large collision center in town. Their bid was over $6,000.00 – supplies $150.00, paint $750.00, and 17 hours body labor and 15 hours of paint labor at $165.00 per hour. I never dreamed that we would be charged drying time for fiberglass layers or that watching paint dry was so expensive!!!


A few weeks ago we stopped in at a local RV dealer that advertised they did RV repairs. The manager took a look at my photos of the damage to our Escape and recommended the fellow who did major fiberglass repairs for them – Mike Beach (Arkansas RV Collision, beachm750@gmail.com). After seeing text photos of the damage, Mike gave a “ball park” quote of $800 or $900. When he saw the damage in person, he said he could do the work for $500.00.


Why the difference? I am not sure the first group wanted the work as they may have intentionally presented an outrageous bid. In their defense: they usually do insurance work; have high overhead with an elaborate facility, manager(s), receptionist(s), full time estimators, etc.; and then have to pay a few guys who actually do the work. On the other hand, Mike is his own boss, answers his own phone, sets his own work schedule, has a 50 ft. x 50 ft. garage shop, shares a gravel parking lot, and profits from his own labor.


We dropped off the Escape on a Friday at noon. Mike worked on it over the weekend and had the job done by late Tuesday morning. From all appearances he did an excellent job.



Years ago I repaired a canoe with an extensive fiberglass patch. When I got done, it did not leak, but the repairs were obvious. After all the encouragement and advice from folks here on the forum, I think I could have done the work on the Escape for around $200.00 (for a West fiberglass repair kit, a rental propane heater/blower to warm up our enclosed trailer storage space, and a few tools and other items). My results would not have been nearly as good. In addition, my wife said “Thank goodness we found Mike – he saved our marriage!”