Socket for lug nuts on 5.0

[claude6543]

Hi everyone,
My 5.0 will soon be ready and I want to buy the right socket to tighten the wheel lug nuts. The manual says 13/16 but is silent on how many sides (points). I searched the forum but could not find a definitive answer.

Should I get a 5-point or 6-point deep socket?

Many thanks!

Claude

[Rockhead]

Don’t forget a torque wrench. I keep one from Harbor Freight. Inexpensive but accurate and durable. Been using one for 8 years and still as reads as good my brothers snap on one. Also I keep a Ryobi impact driver with us to remove n replace the lug nuts. Shoulder n arm surgeries prevent breakin* them loose manually.

[SRS]

Originally Posted by claude6543

Hi everyone,
My 5.0 will soon be ready and I want to buy the right socket to tighten the wheel lug nuts. The manual says 13/16 but is silent on how many sides (points). I searched the forum but could not find a definitive answer.

Should I get a 5-point or 6-point deep socket?

Many thanks!

Claude

Mine are 6 point.

[Centex]

Originally Posted by claude6543

Should I get a 5-point or 6-point deep socket?

Common 6-point socket for a common 6-sided (hexagon) nut.

You can use a 12-point socket in a pinch but 6-pount provides more assured grip and is much less likely to 'slip' or 'round' / damage lug nuts under high-torque. 6-point is definitely the preferred for lug nuts.

(5-point fittings are an 'un-common' special-use occurrence, usually for 'anti-tampering' purposes, not found on any vehicle / trailer whether metric or imperial)

[claude6543]

Many thanks all! 6 points it is. And I also have the torque wrench, so good to go.

[Centex]

Originally Posted by claude6543

Many thanks all! 6 points it is. And I also have the torque wrench, so good to go.

IF by chance you are using an Andersen gooseneck-mount hitch with your 5.0, you might want to also get a 15/16" 6-point socket - that's the size needed for all of the bolts on that hitch, so good to always have with your rig.

[Iowa Dave]

The only time I’ve ever used a 5 point Socket was To remove the cap on a curb stop box to shut water off or turn it on using a water key that fit in the access pipe.
In the winter we would secure the restrooms in the public park restrooms with an auxiliary sliding door. Once in place we had two large captive bolts that screwed into two threaded sockets. We used big bolts, ground the 6 point heads to the same size as the water key 5 point socket. Winter copper theft stopped there.

Six point sockets in the impact ready grade steel are all I use if there’s a chance an impact wrench is going to be involved in removing the wheel lug nuts.
When you torque the nuts back down, do all 5 at 35 Foot pounds, in a star pattern, then go to 65 and finish up at 95 ft lbs always using the star pattern.

Check for tightness after the first 100 miles, and whenever check inflation, especially before and after a long outing. You will be ok if you do this. The worst thing that you don’t want To happen is to be broke down along the highway missing a tire and wheel and 5 lug nuts. Guitar in hand singing that old Kenny Rogers classic. “You picked a fine time to leave me loose wheel”
Iowa Dave

[Centex]

Originally Posted by Iowa Dave

.... The worst thing that you don’t want To happen is to be broke down along the highway missing a tire and wheel and 5 lug nuts. ....

IF one finds themselves trying to aid a traveler in this bad situation, often the wheel/tire can be found but the nuts are long-gone.

The emergency solution (I'm sure known to Iowa Dave) in this bad situation is to use the nuts that mount the spare on its bracket and 'borrow' lug nuts from the other wheels, carefully limping directly to the nearest service facility, missing 1 lug nut on some wheels (after ensuring nuts on all the wheels are properly torqued).

[DanandDaphne]

I bought a 13/16" six point deep socket 1/2" drive, but found that the 21mm socket and long breaker bar I keep in the tundra for a lug wrench also fits the Escape lug nuts perfectly. I keep the 13/16 socket on the torque wrench and the 21mm on the breaker bar.

[Iowa Dave]

Right on. I was once camped with a gentleman who had lost some nuts on a wheel on his pickup. He caught it in time and substituted three, one off each truck wheel and torqued down the three he had left. They used to teach this in school in drivers education. I learned in real life Situations working in a Standard Oil Station with my Dad for several years. Those old guys who were 20 years younger than I am now, were always coming up with a “think outside the box problem” and I was the test pupil. I wouldn’t trade that experience for
“All the tea in China” as they were fond of saying.
Iowa Dave

[escape artist]

Originally Posted by Iowa Dave

The only time I’ve ever used a 5 point Socket was To remove the cap on a curb stop box to shut water off or turn it on using a water key that fit in the access pipe.
In the winter we would secure the restrooms in the public park restrooms with an auxiliary sliding door. Once in place we had two large captive bolts that screwed into two threaded sockets. We used big bolts, ground the 6 point heads to the same size as the water key 5 point socket. Winter copper theft stopped there.

Six point sockets in the impact ready grade steel are all I use if there’s a chance an impact wrench is going to be involved in removing the wheel lug nuts.
When you torque the nuts back down, do all 5 at 35 Foot pounds, in a star pattern, then go to 65 and finish up at 95 ft lbs always using the star pattern.

Check for tightness after the first 100 miles, and whenever check inflation, especially before and after a long outing. You will be ok if you do this. The worst thing that you don’t want To happen is to be broke down along the highway missing a tire and wheel and 5 lug nuts. Guitar in hand singing that old Kenny Rogers classic. “You picked a fine time to leave me loose wheel”
Iowa Dave

Hi: Iowa Dave... I didn't know you drank Tea? "Socket to me"!!! I always know where my torque wrench is cause I never use it. Alf
escape artist N.S. of Lake Erie

[Iowa Dave]

Hi Alf
In my early years I developed a severe addiction to Constant Comment Tea.. An affliction developed and though I quit the tea, I still can’t quit talking.
Iowa Dave

[SageRpod]

Sounds like you are good to go. A 3" extension and a deep 6 point socket will serve you well.

Ditto what Centex said about getting the socket for the Andersen hitch if you have one. I keep on set in the camper and one in my roll around in the garage.

[claude6543]

Thanks Dave. Well noted and will do.

[escape artist]

Originally Posted by Iowa Dave

Hi Alf
In my early years I developed a severe addiction to Constant Comment Tea.. An affliction developed and though I quit the tea, I still can’t quit talking.
Iowa Dave

Hi: Iowa Dave... Alf
escape artist N.S. of Lake Erie

[alanmalk]

Originally Posted by claude6543

Hi everyone,
My 5.0 will soon be ready ...

Many thanks!

Claude

Don't forget a 27MM (or English equivalent) for the water heater anode. I get my annual bath taking out the anode for the winter.

[MrLynn]

Originally Posted by alanmalk

Don't forget a 27MM (or English equivalent) for the water heater anode. I get my annual bath taking out the anode for the winter.

That's 1 1/16" SAE, and must be 6-point. 12-point just plain won't fit.

[Iowa Dave]

Yeah but when you go to the store after that happens for
more beer, everyone looks at you thinking you peed your pants. And the water heater grit that lodged in your waistband feels like sandpaper on your bellybutton
Ah the joys of trailer ownership.
Iowa Dave

[CharlesinGA]

Originally Posted by claude6543

Should I get a 5-point or 6-point deep socket?
Claude

Only place I have ever encountered 5 point is on a fire hydrant.

Your studs on the hubs are 1/2-20 thread and are most likely 13/16, however you need to see what they used to secure the spare. A 1/2-20 thread nut is 3/4 hex and even some lugnuts are. I encountered that situation on my Sasquatch trailer (see my signature) and when I replaced the wheels I installed a matching alloy spare and used standard lugnuts to secure it to the bracket.

My original wheels had deep recesses for the lugs and required thin wall 6 point socket to get on the hex sufficiently.


My new wheels have much larger recesses, that were shallower (thus more meat under the lugs) and I used new lugnuts that were taller with more hex on them.


Charles

[claude6543]

Originally Posted by CharlesinGA

Only place I have ever encountered 5 point is on a fire hydrant.

Your studs on the hubs are 1/2-20 thread and are most likely 13/16, however you need to see what they used to secure the spare. A 1/2-20 thread nut is 3/4 hex and even some lugnuts are. I encountered that situation on my Sasquatch trailer (see my signature) and when I replaced the wheels I installed a matching alloy spare and used standard lugnuts to secure it to the bracket.

My original wheels had deep recesses for the lugs and required thin wall 6 point socket to get on the hex sufficiently.


My new wheels have much larger recesses, that were shallower (thus more meat under the lugs) and I used new lugnuts that were taller with more hex on them.


Charles

Many thanks Charles, that is very useful. I’ll check the size of the spare lugs when I pick up the rig.