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Old 09-09-2021, 08:32 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by noblets View Post
It's so nice and pretty and clean and beautiful up under there!
Not for long! Alan will get some dirt flung up under there soon enough.
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Old 09-09-2021, 08:35 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by noblets View Post
It's so nice and pretty and clean and beautiful up under there!
pic taken while still on delivery transport flatbed (waiting for late wrecker to unload).

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Originally Posted by rubicon327 View Post
Not for long! Alan will get some dirt flung up under there soon enough.
No real trips yet but it has now been down my dirt road after a rain shower so we're getting started on that

(wish the mudflaps were longer with the lift kit)
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Old 09-09-2021, 09:56 PM   #23
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Just FYI .... on my August 2021 build 5.0 the BAL rear stabilizers are mounted using bolts with nylock nuts through a welded-on bearing-plate on the outboard-end and through a deep fabricated "Z" section crossmember on the inboard end. All bolt hex-heads and nuts are fully accessible for R&R.

There are no 'self-tapping screws' or any other 'blind' fastener into an enclosed box-section of the chassis for the stabilizer mounting (but yes, those straps for the adjacent 'sewer tube' use self-tapping screws into the enclosed box section ).

Seems that compared to some of the mounts described above ETI has made some welcome improvements in this area?
My recommendation:

Get some clear POR15 spray undercoating and coat all the undercarriage framework while it is still clean. Will inhibit rusting for many years, otherwise it’s already beginning to rust. Framework painting is marginal to say the least.
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Old 09-09-2021, 10:23 PM   #24
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My recommendation:

Get some clear POR15 spray undercoating and coat all the undercarriage framework while it is still clean.
Read the prep for POR15 before purchasing it.
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Old 09-10-2021, 06:52 AM   #25
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Read the prep for POR15 before purchasing it.

It's not onerous on a new trailer, which is probably why DCboyd was recommending to do it on a new trailer. They recommend removing loose rust or and oil/grease. For best results they suggest POR-15 metal prep, but in my limited experience with POR-15 it isn't needed when being applied to a clean, bare or painted surface.
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Old 09-10-2021, 08:15 AM   #26
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Thought I was clear about a new trailer but guess I should have used all caps on the word.
It works really well on the clean surface.
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Old 09-10-2021, 10:50 AM   #27
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I understand the comments about rust prevention and new trailers being easier if one wants to undertake a 'total' coating application (less prep, less existing rust to mitigate before coating, etc). Still, a total application on a new trailer, which if done properly involves at least scuffing all of the existing paint surface to facilitate adhesion, is no small undertaking, and in the case of the Escape with it's tanks etc there's still going to be lots of metal that can't be accessed.

In my experience living in central Texas far from coastal effects, rust has never been a "problem" for my fleet of utility and RV trailers, several over 30 yrs old and my Casita at now over 16 years, and with a wide variety of 'coating quality' as delivered.

I'm not saying they are "rust-free", just saying it's generally confined to spots where the paint film has been chipped and is not even remotely a structural concern. Over the years I'll occasionally address those with spot-treatment (wire-cup to bare metal, scuff adjacent good paint, apply primer and color topcoats). It's quick, easy, and just falls in the category of maintenance for me, no worries.

Even rust on the exposed threaded ends of typical zinc or oxide fasteners is easily addressed with a wire cup on a drill if/when there's need for R&R after decades of exposure, and fastener integrity is very rarely a concern IME.

So, thanks for the comments / suggestions, all are appreciated, but I'll stick with my practice and see how it goes on the Escape. I realize different folks may have different preferences, and suspect a lot of that has to do with local environmental conditions (some likely more 'rust-promoting' than mine) and personal experience. In other words, YMMV, no worries!

Perhaps we can let this thread return to it's original topic ....?
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Old 09-10-2021, 11:26 AM   #28
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It’s difficult to recoat the frame and takes time. My Airstream was free of frame rust for decades. Of course it was old schooled primed then painted. After I received delivery in January 2021 and drove 4 miles to my residence I noticed rust already forming on the frame in many places. My thoughts were why? It has no primer under paint I found out, at least not a different color. So I began the process of wiping the gloss black paint with a Scotch Bright pad, taping where possible and spraying the black under coater. Areas next to the fresh water tank I used the clear coat, and did not worry about overspray. Sprayed the area behind the wheels also, of course after removing the wheels.
Also recoated the propane tank holder tray, and the entire tongue framing, as well as the bumper, to prevent rusting of the framing and tire carrier failure.
How much area covered. Maybe 80%. That’s an area I don’t have to worry about.

Keep in mind that my trailer was delivered in the dead of winter to S.Texas and was probably coated in road salt.

Yep back to main topic.
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