Upgrade Cabinet Hinges/Latches

[DT6]

I know there was a somewhat recent post on hinges, but I cannot seem to find the particular one I'm looking for when I use the search engine here.

Does anyone have any recollection of the post? As I recall someone made a good reference to some upgraded cabined door hinges and latches?

Thanks!

[SRS]

Originally Posted by DT6

I know there was a somewhat recent post on hinges, but I cannot seem to find the particular one I'm looking for when I use the search engine here.

Does anyone have any recollection of the post? As I recall someone made a good reference to some upgraded cabined door hinges and latches?

Thanks!

I can't give you the references to the Escape Forum but I've saved some of the hinges / locks to my Amazon wish list so here they are:


https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B096K5SQ...v_ov_lig_dp_it


https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07TDQL7...lig_dp_it&th=1


https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07TDQL7...lig_dp_it&th=1


Hope that helps some.

[Donna D.]

Here's one: https://www.escapeforum.org/forums/f...ment-9717.html

[DT6]

Thanks! The ball-bearing latches are what I was thinking about, I appreciate the links. I really need to get these as Escape botched the installation of about a third of the cabinet door latches, and they need replacing. Thanks for the link to the thread Donna, good information there, especially wrt upgraded hinges.

[Donna D.]

Originally Posted by DT6

Thanks for the link to the thread Donna, good information there, especially wrt upgraded hinges.

I remember reading several threads sprinkled throughout the forum about cabinet hardware and decorating too. What was mentioned is Rockler and Lee Valley for purchasing the hardware.

[JeffinBC]

I had issues where the latches on the cabinets under the sink in our 21C did not hold so the doors opened and ended up snapping the hinges with the movement of the trailer. I don’t think you need to replace your hinges (unless broken…never a bad idea to upgrade, though) but I did replace the latches with the silver coloured ball bearing ones and they have been solid so far. The latches don’t come with installation instructions so remember to follow others’ advice on installation…use double-sided tape or something else to show you exactly where to drill your holes for the male part of the latch. There is virtually no room for error on that piece.

.

Originally Posted by DT6

Thanks! The ball-bearing latches are what I was thinking about, I appreciate the links. I really need to get these as Escape botched the installation of about a third of the cabinet door latches, and they need replacing. Thanks for the link to the thread Donna, good information there, especially wrt upgraded hinges.

[Ron in BC]

Originally Posted by JeffinBC

I had issues where the latches on the cabinets under the sink in our 21C did not hold so the doors opened and ended up snapping the hinges with the movement of the trailer.

.

For some reason those seem to be the most likely hinges to break, at least on my 21C. I've replaced a couple over the years. Maybe the motion over the wheels is a bit harsher.

Ron

[BILLB]

Originally Posted by DT6

Thanks! The ball-bearing latches are what I was thinking about, I appreciate the links. I really need to get these as Escape botched the installation of about a third of the cabinet door latches, and they need replacing. Thanks for the link to the thread Donna, good information there, especially wrt upgraded hinges.

I experimented with the ball bearing style latches and didn’t find them to be a perfect solution. l initially found them to be extremely difficult to align for installation. Although they did solve the popping open problem if adjusted properly, they made the door and drawers difficult to open and close in everyday usage. I returned to the original latches and the use of bungee cords and tension rods whenever traveling.

[IanC]

Here's my solution for cabinet doors that swing open while on the road. We've only had problems with the cupboard above the fridge in our 17B, but its a mess when it happens.
https://www.escapeforum.org/forums/f...tml#post416984

[Escape_19]

Someone on the forum had made wooden "keepers" to hang between the cabinet door handles. I can't seem to find that post.

[JohnK]

Originally Posted by DT6

I know there was a somewhat recent post on hinges, but I cannot seem to find the particular one I'm looking for when I use the search engine here.

Does anyone have any recollection of the post? As I recall someone made a good reference to some upgraded cabined door hinges and latches?

Thanks!

DT6, I can't point you to the exact post, but I can tell you that if you take a hinge to an Ace Hardware store you can find an exact match for our much less than perfect hinges. I've replaced two of them in less than 6 months. The photo below is pictures what I found in the hinge section of our local Ace Hardware:

John

[John in Santa Cruz]

Originally Posted by BILLB

I experimented with the ball bearing style latches and didn’t find them to be a perfect solution. l initially found them to be extremely difficult to align for installation. Although they did solve the popping open problem if adjusted properly, they made the door and drawers difficult to open and close in everyday usage. I returned to the original latches and the use of bungee cords and tension rods whenever traveling.

I've installed a number of the ball latches, quite successfully. i used a thin mechanics steel rule to position the 2nd piece after screwing the first piece in place. they hold quite securely, and are easy enough to open/close for me.

[Martinfry]

Originally Posted by John in Santa Cruz

I've installed a number of the ball latches, quite successfully. i used a thin mechanics steel rule to position the 2nd piece after screwing the first piece in place. they hold quite securely, and are easy enough to open/close for me.

Just looking at buying these latches. I was wondering what size you used?

https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop...MaAnM3EALw_wcB

[JeffinBC]

Originally Posted by Martinfry

Just looking at buying these latches. I was wondering what size you used?

https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop...MaAnM3EALw_wcB

The ones I got off Amazon were 70mm and seem to work well so if you’re intent on using Lee Valley, I would suggest 60mm or 80mm. I think you can find a better price, though. They’re good latches and a significant upgrade. Good luck.

[John in Santa Cruz]

Originally Posted by JeffinBC

The ones I got off Amazon were 70mm and seem to work well so if you’re intent on using Lee Valley, I would suggest 60mm or 80mm. I think you can find a better price, though. They’re good latches and a significant upgrade. Good luck.

indeed, but they have to be installed with very precise positioning.

[Ron in BC]

Groan, I know and I've got 10 pairs to install.

Ron

[JeffinBC]

Originally Posted by Ron in BC

Groan, I know and I've got 10 pairs to install.

Ron

The double-sided tape trick worked for me. Dead simple and got every one on the first try. Good luck.

[John in Santa Cruz]

Originally Posted by JeffinBC

The double-sided tape trick worked for me. Dead simple and got every one on the first try. Good luck.

whats that, screw the base piece in where you think it should go, then use doublestick to put the moving piece on the inside of the cabinet door, then pry it open with a screwdriver, and screw it down ?

I used a little mechanics rule, screwed in the base piece, snapped in the door piece, then closed the door over it, and used a little steel mechanics rule to measure how far in it was, and pencil mark where the ends were, opened the door and used said rule to figure out where to screw it in... worked pretty good 4 out of 5 times. I have one door thats about 1/32nd of an inch off so I have to lift that door handle by just that much to get it to latch.

[JeffinBC]

Yes. I did it the way you described. I also backed the tension way off on the base. Then put the double-sided tape on the moving piece, inserted the moving piece in the base, and the closed the door on it. When you open the door, the moving piece will be stuck to the door in the correct position. Drill the holes and then peel off the tape if you like. TBH, this was someone else’s solution that I tried. Can’t remember who but I am thankful as I would not have figured it out myself.

I like your way, too. Whatever works. Cheers.

[John in Santa Cruz]

ah, didn't realize you could back out the tension, that simplifies the tape thing a lot.