Water heater winterized questio

[Kimber]

I used the written instructions that came w my manual to winterize my (new to me ) 2011 17B today. I used the non blow out option but it didn’t mention the bipass valves in the water heater. I didn’t flip those! What should I do? I likely have antifreeze in there although I didn’t run the pump after I put the antifreeze in so perhaps it’s just in the p traps? Also, here’s a photo of the anode rod...does this need replacing? What should it look like new? If so, where do I get a replacement? It’s quite pitted and looks worn away at the end that screws in. Thanks, this is my first time doing this!

[padlin]

The anode is fine, lots of meat left on the bone.

Can't help with the winterizing goof as I don't know how the instructions tell you to do it.

[gbaglo]

Here's good and bad anode for comparison. If you didn't bypass the water heater, there would be six gallons of antifreeze in it.
Big Boy's Toys is near you for a replacement.
Address: 1421 Island Hwy E, Nanoose Bay, BC V9P 9A3

[mtnest]

Kimber, so others may offer you guidance, it would help if you better describe the steps you’ve taken thus far. Thanks. -Tom

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by Kimber

I used the written instructions that came w my manual to winterize my (new to me ) 2011 17B today. I used the non blow out option but it didn’t mention the bipass valves in the water heater. I didn’t flip those! What should I do? I likely have antifreeze in there although I didn’t run the pump after I put the antifreeze in so perhaps it’s just in the p traps? Also, here’s a photo of the anode rod...does this need replacing? What should it look like new? If so, where do I get a replacement? It’s quite pitted and looks worn away at the end that screws in. Thanks, this is my first time doing this!

If the anode didn’t need replacing it will after sitting in antifreeze. If I were you I would flush out any antifreeze from the hot water tank, bypass it, and rinse the anode. If you keep antifreeze in the hot water tank you should pull the anode and put in a 3/4” plug.

[Kimber]

I used method two, draining the water lines from page 13 on my 2011 17B manual steps as follows:. 1. Drain fresh water tank. 2. Remove black plastic plug (low point drain) 3. First, hold the toilet flush valve open for 5-10 seconds, open all other taps allowing to drain and leave open. 4. Drain remaining water out of the heater by removing the drain plug (1 1/16 socket) 5. Apply teflon tape on water heater drain plug and reinstall. 6.remove screen washer on city water fill and press plastic one way valve to allow small trickle of trapped water to drain out. 7. Once no more water drains out, switch on 12v pump run for 10 seconds. 8. Reinstall low point drain plug. 9 pour two litres of RV antifreeze into the toilet holding tank and 1 litre into each of kitchen and shower drain. NO MENTION OF BYPASS VALVES FOR THIS METHOD in the manual that came with my 2011 17B. Question: what to do? Is it a misprint in the manual? A step left out? Should I close the bypass valves on the water heater and drain it to see if anti freeze will come out? Then re inject anti freeze into the sink and shower? I'm confused! Thank you in advance!

[Kimber]

Tom, thank you...I posted the steps from the manual that came with my trailer somewhere in this thread. I'll wait to see what advice I get but I think I need to drain the water heater, bypass it, rinse the anode and then put more anti freeze into the system to replace whatever comes out of the water heater? Boy, what a learning curve...Doh!

[rubicon327]

Kimber: The reason those old instructions don’t mention the water heater bypass is because the winterizing method referenced was simply draining all water in the system with the low point drain and draining water heater. That was it. Newer trailers don’t have the low point drain because they started to have problems with a newer style toilet valve that wouldn’t drain and they were cracking. Ask me anything about winterizing. I have done low point draining, compressed air, antifreeze and combinations.

I would make sure fresh, black and gray are empty. Hook up hose to city water connection and flush the system with water with the hot water heater in normal mode and gray tank valve open. Run both hot and cold at all taps. Turn off city water and open tap to relieve system pressure. Open relief valve on hot water heater to make sure it’s depressurized and provide venting. Remove anode and drain hot water heater. Rinse the anode for good measure. Bypass the water heater which simply connects all your hot and cold plumbing and prevents antifreeze from entering water heater. Open low point drain and drain system per your old instructions. Close low point drain and gray tank valve. Then using the winterizing tee valve (if equipped) and onboard pump fill the system with antifreeze by running hot and cold at each tap, toilet and outdoor shower. Run until you see pink. At the sinks and toilet the antifreeze you run down the drain will take care of p-traps/tanks. Pour some antifreeze down shower drain. Reinsert anode or set aside for reinstall in spring. Done.

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by Kimber

I used method two, draining the water lines from page 13 on my 2011 17B manual steps as follows...

In that set of steps, the freshwater system is just drained, and neither blown out with air nor filled with antifreeze - it depends on very thorough draining (which is possible because of that low point drain... except for that toilet valve). The antifreeze only goes in drains (to prevent freezing in traps and tanks).

If you did this, you didn't need to bypass the water heater because you were not putting any antifreeze into the freshwater piping - there isn't any antifreeze in the heater.

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by Brian B-P

In that set of steps, the freshwater system is just drained, and neither blown out with air nor filled with antifreeze - it depends on very thorough draining (which is possible because of that low point drain... except for that toilet valve). The antifreeze only goes in drains (to prevent freezing in traps and tanks).

If you did this, you didn't need to bypass the water heater because you were not putting any antifreeze into the freshwater piping - there isn't any antifreeze in the heater.

Good point Brian. It was late and I got ahead of myself. If Kimber did not indeed put antifreeze into the hot/cold lines (only some in the drains) then there is no antifreeze in the hot water heater to worry about. Easy enough to check. If there was no antifreeze added to the hot/cold piping system and the water heater you can ignore the process I laid out in post #8 above which was essentially dewinterizing and then rewinterizing.

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by Kimber

Boy, what a learning curve...Doh!

We’ve all been there. You’ll be a pro for next season!

[Iowa Dave]

Originally Posted by Kimber

Tom, thank you...I posted the steps from the manual that came with my trailer somewhere in this thread. I'll wait to see what advice I get but I think I need to drain the water heater, bypass it, rinse the anode and then put more anti freeze into the system to replace whatever comes out of the water heater? Boy, what a learning curve...Doh!

When you say “Doh” you are supposed to smack your forehead with your hand. Before you do, put the anode down or it will scratch your forehead. That’s a genuine “Doh”. I know. When all done, and I didn’t read all the posts, take the city water connection cap off, pry out that little screen and push in on that center button with your finger. This will release any water perched in the backflow device in the city water connection. Then put the screen back in and you’re good to go on that.
Iowa Dave

[Kimber]

Thank you to all of you for your good advice, explanations and humor! You are correct, I am learning so much and at this rate...I'll be building them by next season. Ah ha ha. Oh, and with the "doh", I certainly did slap my forehead for that "oh oh no, ah ha" moment. No injury to report.

[Hollybee]

Hard to tell where you are in the steps.

I start w 5 gal of fresh RV anti-freeze.
My directions [E21C]said to flip both bypass valves on WH...., release the pressure and THEN pull the anode rod and let the WH drain..

Ok I did that..then [as I did w my Casita], I washed out the crud from the bottom of the WH tank w a hose running clean water in & out at the drain opening. I always try to leave a bit of antifreeze in the WH tank too, then replace that anode rod..IF it is 50% used. Next spring I wash out the antifreeze b4 reinserting that anode rod.

I drain the fresh water tank and replace the water w about 3 Gal of RV anti-freeze..and use the pump to wash out all the other lines & faucets..[don't 4get the inside AND OUTSIDE shower lines]..this usually leaves about a gal of AF in the water tank. I then wash out the black and gray tanks..several times and close the drain valves..and put about a 1/2 gallon of AF in the gray and another 1/2 gallon to the black tank.
Then I go around and put a cup of AF into the shower drain, , the bathroom sink and the kitchen sink..to fill the P-traps. Any leftover AF goes into the gray and black tanks, and 2 cups into the toilet bowl...
Whole job takes about an hour and 5 gal of RV AF @ $2.50/gal at Walmart...and I don't have to worry about too much AIR pressure blowing a hole in plastic piping lines or seals..

[Kimber]

Thank YOU! Done!

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by Hollybee

Hard to tell where you are in the steps.

I start w 5 gal of fresh RV anti-freeze.
My directions [E21C]said to flip both bypass valves on WH...., release the pressure and THEN pull the anode rod and let the WH drain..

Ok I did that..then [as I did w my Casita], I washed out the crud from the bottom of the WH tank w a hose running clean water in & out at the drain opening. I always try to leave a bit of antifreeze in the WH tank too, then replace that anode rod..IF it is 50% used. Next spring I wash out the antifreeze b4 reinserting that anode rod.

I drain the fresh water tank and replace the water w about 3 Gal of RV anti-freeze..and use the pump to wash out all the other lines & faucets..[don't 4get the inside AND OUTSIDE shower lines]..this usually leaves about a gal of AF in the water tank. I then wash out the black and gray tanks..several times and close the drain valves..and put about a 1/2 gallon of AF in the gray and another 1/2 gallon to the black tank.
Then I go around and put a cup of AF into the shower drain, , the bathroom sink and the kitchen sink..to fill the P-traps. Any leftover AF goes into the gray and black tanks, and 2 cups into the toilet bowl...
Whole job takes about an hour and 5 gal of RV AF @ $2.50/gal at Walmart...and I don't have to worry about too much AIR pressure blowing a hole in plastic piping lines or seals..

Suit yourself but there is no reason to have antifreeze in the hot water heater tank or the freshwater tank. When using the winterizing tee to draw antifreeze into the system you should use less than 2 gallons including all the drains.

[Hollybee]

Originally Posted by rubicon327

Suit yourself but there is no reason to have antifreeze in the hot water heater tank or the freshwater tank. When using the winterizing tee to draw antifreeze into the system you should use less than 2 gallons including all the drains.

.................................................. .................................................. ................
Tip o' the hat.
WE choose to have some AF in all places..and wash it out in the Spring. No harm, no foul..er..fowl er vowel er towel...