Water pump power

[buzz&jessie]

Our 2015 E19’s pump was having difficulty priming despite numerous attempts. Power suddenly failed with a click in the vicinity of the pump. Fuse in main panel ok and light in rocker switch on control panel functions. I was hoping a thermal switch would reset but no. I felt but could not see in the cramped compartment if there is also an in-line fuse. Some crud was removed from the screen and a bit of water was added but no power.

So...anyone know where to go from here?
Thanks! Terry

[Pairofkings]

Can you verify the pump is getting power with a volt meter? If it is getting power there are probably two options. A faulty pressure switch or a faulty motor. You can remove the pressure switch and test it with an ohm meter to see if it can turn on and off. Hope this helps.

[buzz&jessie]

Yes we have power to the pump. After a day it ran so I think the thermal cutoff was the issue. However still no water. Reace has a nice YouTube on priming/adjusting the pump but still no luck. I think either the inlet tube is blocked or the pump bladder is punctured. I’ve been uncomfortable that anyone can contaminate the water supply (due to no lock).

Will post the solution when fixed. Meanwhile we’ve been boondocking by filling a water bladder from the drain.

Terry

[buzz&jessie]

I was able to ensure that the inlet hose was not plugged and fixed the kink (which may or may not have contributed to the issue). Still not working. As a last ditch, I opened the taps and filled the fresh water tank, pushing the hose in firmly while pushing a finger on the vent above the inlet, thereby creating some positive pressure, until water was coming out of the open taps. Then had my wife turn on the pump…

We heard a fairly loud bang from inside the trailer, then… it worked!

The bang remains a mystery.

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by buzz&jessie

I was able to ensure that the inlet hose was not plugged and fixed the kink (which may or may not have contributed to the issue). Still not working. As a last ditch, I opened the taps and filled the fresh water tank, pushing the hose in firmly while pushing a finger on the vent above the inlet, thereby creating some positive pressure, until water was coming out of the open taps. Then had my wife turn on the pump…

We heard a fairly loud bang from inside the trailer, then… it worked!

The bang remains a mystery.

Glad you got it working. If feeding via the fresh water tank water should not come out of the taps without the pump running unless you blocked the vent and created enough positive pressure to push water through the pump diaphragm and check valve. By doing so the pump was probably well primed. Regarding the "bang" maybe the integral check valve on the pump was sticking closed and you built up enough pressure and then it released causing some water hammer. I would test the system on city water too. If the check valve on the pump hangs open you will backfeed and overflow your fresh water tank.

[C&G in FL]

Originally Posted by rubicon327

If the check valve on the pump hangs open you will backfeed and overflow your fresh water tank.

I had that problem and posted a procedure that sometimes corrects the check valve. First, you turn off the hose bib and open a faucet to bleed off the city water’s pressure. Then you turn on the pump and allow water from the fresh tank to pressurize the system. That sometimes unsticks the check valve. Then turn of the pump and turn on the hose bib. If the fresh water tank stops overflowing, you are good. If not, you either have to get the $15 repair kit from Shur-Flo. Easy fix if you are proficient with a screw driver! Or you can purchase a plastic bodied check valve (@ $10) and a 1/2” threaded coupler (@ $1) from Amazon and Lowe’s/HD/hardware store respectively and install it on the outflow side of the pump. I replaced my check valve but have the other assembly when traveling. A tech rep from Shur-Flo confirmed that an “external” check valve is an acceptable fix. And it’s “plug and play,” not requiring pump removal for easy access.