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Old 07-01-2015, 11:56 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Floating Cloud View Post
Someone said he wired his jack by the propane tanks, did not need to go to the back.
Right, he connected it to a terminal block adjacent to where the tow vehicle power cord terminates. That's one way around it.
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Old 07-02-2015, 12:07 AM   #12
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Maybe somebody will come up with an electric jack that you wind up to charge the battery, like those emergency radios.
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Old 07-02-2015, 01:33 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by gbaglo View Post
Maybe somebody will come up with an electric jack that you wind up to charge the battery, like those emergency radios.
Or hook up the non-electric one to do that. Might as well use all of that cranking for something.
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Old 07-13-2015, 08:32 AM   #14
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The heat pads run on 12v and draw about 100 watts each. 200 watts from a battery all night long is a very significant drain, so if you decide to buy & use them, plan on being hooked up to 110v AC so your converter will supply the power instead of the batteries.

I skipped them and plan to route some water from the hot water heater (powered by propane) back into the fresh water tank to keep it above freezing in the winter. This is a mod in progress. ETI installed a return line for me (extra cost item). I also had ETI install some 12v heat tape along the plumbing pipes that run under the floor ( about 4-5 feet on the '21). It uses about 2 amps (24 watts) so not a major drain. Finally, I plan to dump RV antifreeze into the gray and black tanks when in winter service. Hopefully this will keep us operational as long as the daytime temperature get a bit above freezing.

Remember - its all a plan, not proven yet.

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We're just now looking at our build sheet. Can you explain this a bit more and what you actually requested ETI to do? This sounds like a viable option to me as I'm not really enthused about burying systems under foam that will make maintenance more difficult. We're in Colorado too and need something to get through the night/day-freeze/thaw.
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Old 07-13-2015, 09:35 AM   #15
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The spray foam not only insulates but also protects the undercarriage. The floors remain warm with heat, without the foam you may have cold spots. I have had both with and without the heated pads, but they make hookups necessary. That said my 21 does not have pads but does have the foam and an auxiliary electric heater. I have camped down to -0- without any issues with the this set up, but did have electric. I would not boondock for more than one day in these temperatures without electric.
The only added item I would add for winter camping is an additional 120v out let on the driver side to allow using a heated water supply hose if available. that eliminates any tank issues.
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Old 07-13-2015, 04:48 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mesa View Post
We're just now looking at our build sheet. Can you explain this a bit more and what you actually requested ETI to do? This sounds like a viable option to me as I'm not really enthused about burying systems under foam that will make maintenance more difficult. We're in Colorado too and need something to get through the night/day-freeze/thaw.
Thanks
Starting on the assumption that you are asking about the '21 (which is what we have): There are about 4 feet of hot and cold pex pipe running from under the bed, over to the sink, that is under the floor - visible from under the trailer - unless you order the foam insulation option. I obtained a length of 12 v heat tape and asked ETI to attach it to the pipes in question. ETI installed a switch on the drawers by the bed, next to the USB power port. The reason I worried about this is that there is not much thermal mass to skinny pipes and I have heard second hand reports that this the first to freeze in cold weather. I was charged $125 for the installation.

Second, I asked ETI to run a length of low pressure water hose ( 1/2 inch vinyl ) from the vicinity of the hot water heater to the vicinity of the of the fresh water tank vent tube (also 1/2 inch vinyl). They would not make the actual connections due to various Canadian rules and regulations. I am in the process of adding a 3 way valve at the hot water tank and a 3 way "T" at the vent tube. It has not been easy so far but I will eventually get things to work. Perhaps if you asked very nicely they would make the "T" connection for you and save a bit of agony from working in a very tight space. If I had a second chance I would also specify that the vinyl hose be the reinforced variety that they use to pull water from the tank to the pump. What they did use was only rated to 130 degrees F, and I assume the hot water going back to the fresh tank will be around 150. I believe the charge for laying the hose was $25.

As I said, this is unproven until our first winter.

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Old 07-13-2015, 07:12 PM   #17
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Thanks Alan, great description.
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Old 07-13-2015, 10:51 PM   #18
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We were camping in Lake Louise last September and experienced a cold blast with snow and overnight temperatures around - 5 deg C for about 3 days. The campsite turned off it's water to the campsites, but had water to the washrooms, and we had power. We have the spray foam and heat pads, and lots of propane to keep the heater running, so we were able to use our trailer as normal. The heat pads are a bit costly but if you camp in the spring and fall in the mountains they may come in handy.
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Old 07-20-2015, 12:57 PM   #19
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It sounds like the spray foam is good for cold weather insulation but what about hot weather insulation too? And sound insulation? If you don't plan to camp in really cold weather, is the $700 cost justified?
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Old 07-20-2015, 12:59 PM   #20
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It protects the entire underside of the trailer, tanks, wiring, plumbing, frame are all encased with foam, quieter, warmer, but about 40 lbs heavier, estimated.
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