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Old 07-20-2015, 01:07 PM   #21
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Is there a downside of having all that encased? In other words, if something has to be changed with the tanks or wiring, is it a big deal to get through the spray foam? Or maybe it's unlikely you would ever have a problem in those areas?
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Old 07-20-2015, 02:06 PM   #22
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We had the same question, Jill. And so we didn't get the foam underneath, although I am concerned about the holding tanks being exposed to cold weather. (We'll have to do a better job at winterizing. With the Casita we just plug in an electric heater - but its plumbing is all inside the living area.)
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Old 07-20-2015, 03:43 PM   #23
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I would think insulation is good for retaining both heat and cold and would help those who need air conditioning.

You are right, access to the underside is limited with spray foam. If you want those aftermarket sensors, do it during the build.
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Old 07-20-2015, 04:28 PM   #24
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It sounds like the spray foam is good for cold weather insulation but what about hot weather insulation too? And sound insulation? If you don't plan to camp in really cold weather, is the $700 cost justified?
I'm not sure that the little bit extra Reflectix insulation is worth too much but the double glazed windows are worth it; one, because they cut down on condensation in cold weather and, two, they work surprisingly well at reducing noise from the exterior.

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Old 07-20-2015, 04:48 PM   #25
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Missed the key question Jill, is it worth $700 if you're staying in warm country? probably not.

And yes it'll be a hassle to get through the foam to get to the tanks, or anything else under there. By the same token it hopefully minimizes the need to get to anything under there. Provides a decent measure of protection.
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Old 07-20-2015, 05:02 PM   #26
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I didn't get the foam under the trailer but really wanted too. The reason I didn't was because in the event I needed to do some kind of work or repair I would have had to dig all that foam off. It will keep your camper warmer in cold and I'm sure colder inside during high heat, insulation works both ways especially with an AC unit. I think insulating the underside of the plywood(if possible) would be a better alternative.
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Old 07-20-2015, 05:27 PM   #27
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I think insulating the underside of the plywood(if possible) would be a better alternative.
You can kind of split the difference with the under trailer insulation. If you look under there you can see large areas of smooth fiberglass. It would be fairly easy to attach slabs of foam insulation in those areas. Wouldn't do much for the tanks but would insulate the area underfoot.

Haven't don that to mine yet but will do it if we decide to take it to a ski area next winter. Won't worry about the tanks, will just dry camp.

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Old 07-20-2015, 05:50 PM   #28
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You can kind of split the difference with the under trailer insulation. If you look under there you can see large areas of smooth fiberglass. It would be fairly easy to attach slabs of foam insulation in those areas. Wouldn't do much for the tanks but would insulate the area underfoot.

Haven't don that to mine yet but will do it if we decide to take it to a ski area next winter. Won't worry about the tanks, will just dry camp.

Ron
That's a good idea! You can get that stuff in 2.5 or maybe even 3 inches thick, I wonder if silicone would be enough to hold it there without coming off?
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Old 07-20-2015, 06:12 PM   #29
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That's a good idea! You can get that stuff in 2.5 or maybe even 3 inches thick, I wonder if silicone would be enough to hold it there without coming off?
There are foam adhesives that are plenty strong enough. Light weight to hold and a huge surface area. But my middle name is "Redundant" I plan to run two straps from the frame under the foam to the other frame, front to back. If the adhesive ever failed the insulating value would drop but the foam wouldn't.

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Old 07-20-2015, 08:58 PM   #30
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There are foam adhesives that are plenty strong enough. Light weight to hold and a huge surface area. But my middle name is "Redundant" I plan to run two straps from the frame under the foam to the other frame, front to back. If the adhesive ever failed the insulating value would drop but the foam wouldn't.

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Old 07-20-2015, 10:07 PM   #31
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Padlin mentioned getting the aftermarket sensors during the build if you're going to do the spray foam. I'm pretty sure we'll do the spray foam on our 21' (scheduled for Feb 2016). So what is the benefit of the aftermarket sensors over the standard ones?
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Old 07-21-2015, 09:37 AM   #32
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Horst probes

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Padlin mentioned getting the aftermarket sensors during the build if you're going to do the spray foam. I'm pretty sure we'll do the spray foam on our 21' (scheduled for Feb 2016). So what is the benefit of the aftermarket sensors over the standard ones?
I think the only alternative to the standard sensors are the Horst Miracle Probes. They give accurate readings even if there is a bit of sludge buildup in the tanks. We got them installed in the Skylark, and we haven't had any problems with false readings. But the trailer is less than a year old, so the jury is still out.

I don't believe that Escape will install the SeeLeveL Probes. At least they wouldn't a year ago.
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Old 07-21-2015, 11:51 AM   #33
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There are foam adhesives that are plenty strong enough. Light weight to hold and a huge surface area. But my middle name is "Redundant" I plan to run two straps from the frame under the foam to the other frame, front to back. If the adhesive ever failed the insulating value would drop but the foam wouldn't.

Ron
Glad to meet you Redundant ..... my middle name is Re-done-it!
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Old 07-21-2015, 12:59 PM   #34
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Padlin mentioned getting the aftermarket sensors during the build if you're going to do the spray foam. I'm pretty sure we'll do the spray foam on our 21' (scheduled for Feb 2016). So what is the benefit of the aftermarket sensors over the standard ones?
The standard ones are wrong almost as often as they are right. Not just on Escapes, but on most trailers. I know folks with the Horst and have had no problems for years. I of course forgot all about going with them till after the trailer was finished. On the flip side, you do get used to them being wrong and learn to go by how long it's been since you emptied.
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Old 07-21-2015, 01:32 PM   #35
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The standard ones are wrong almost as often as they are right. .
I'm not sure that I'd rate them that high. I never even bother looking at the display. Grey water I don't worry about. Black I look down the toilet and the fresh water tank being translucent, I kneel down and look at the level.

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Old 07-21-2015, 01:38 PM   #36
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6 years and running, and our display still shows fairly close to accurate. I do the same checks as Ron does as the black reads near full, just to confirm.
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Old 07-21-2015, 01:53 PM   #37
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Jim - you have the standard probes, or the Horst probes? And yes, I'm already used to not going by the gauges since my Casita doesn't even have them!
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Old 07-21-2015, 02:05 PM   #38
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Just the standard ones. I got them back when there was no known of issues though.
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Old 07-21-2015, 02:09 PM   #39
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You "can" get accurate readings from the stock probes, but they must be clean. That's hard to do because they're basically a threaded bolt that protrudes into the tank. The surface of that bolt has a tendency for things to cling to it, the small amount of conduction is detected, and the indicator says the tank is full to that sensor's level.

The Horst Probes are a different design. The grey tank probe is a stainless shaft with a flat piece on the end, and about the diameter of a thick sewing needle. The black tank sensor uses a copper shaft, but adds a Teflon cover over the top half so that black tank debris cannot build up on the conductor.

They work very well, and it's kind of cool that we have them, but to be honest, this was a nice to have - definitely not a must have. You also have to consider that they are only available from a few suppliers, they're quite expensive, and they must be supplied to Escape before the build starts.
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Old 07-21-2015, 02:27 PM   #40
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The surface of that bolt has a tendency for things to cling to it, the small amount of conduction is detected, and the indicator says the tank is full to that sensor's level.
Which doesn't explain why my fresh water tank only shows 2/3 ( or is it 3/4 ) full when I know it is full. Water shot out the overflow and out the filler, but it's not full according to the monitor.

I plan to spray the sensor contacts with electrical contact cleaner.
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