Lagun Table Mount Install - Thoughts

[Chotch]

😎 Pretty sure it won’t come apart
May want to weigh your trailer when you get done🤣😂

[Telescopist]

Originally Posted by Chotch

😎 Pretty sure it won’t come apart
May want to weigh your trailer when you get done🤣😂

OMG your right! I'll be adding @2.88 pounds to the weight of the trailer by reinforcing the floor with a 16"x 12" piece of 3/4" plywood. Back to the drawing board.

[Ronn]

Originally Posted by Rrgramps

I installed mine, last month. However, I have the side tables, which are better for me to eat off of. So I leave the table top at home. Although I repaired it, the table broke* before we left home. My favorite setup is with a twin size bed, and a memory foam clone.

* Lagun mounting screws under the table top pulled loose from the plywood; under a great amount of weight leveraged stress. Maybe over 130 pounds. Dunno. I put in #14 screws, and caulked with “Liquid Nails” construction adhesive.

The u-dinette wall mount was solid and unaffected.

I installed mine at the KOA in Lyden day 2, easy install, great movement, very sturdy, the weak point is the screws into the table itself, I like you had them pull loose right away (maybe that as weak point is a good thing, no danger of pulling off the wall). I pulled the screws loose by raising the table vs pressure on the table. I put in larger screws and may take a second look at it when we get home from our maiden voyage but it seems ok now.
We have used the table a lot more than most as Colleen has her office set up on it. I would say it is tied as our favorite mod so far (we mounted our railed version of the Andersen hitch 4" back, lots of room with the tailgate down and plenty of cab clearance for 90° turns.

[Chotch]

Originally Posted by Telescopist

OMG your right! I'll be adding @2.88 pounds to the weight of the trailer by reinforcing the floor with a 16"x 12" piece of 3/4" plywood. Back to the drawing board.

at least another 3 lbs in hardware........

[dfandrews]

Originally Posted by Chotch

at least another 3 lbs in hardware........

That's nothing: I'm always in trouble when I peruse the hardware store tool aisle or visit a tackle shop. The weight just somehow keeps adding up.

[Chotch]

Originally Posted by Ronn

I installed mine at the KOA in Lyden day 2, easy install, great movement, very sturdy, the weak point is the screws into the table itself, I like you had them pull loose right away (maybe that as weak point is a good thing, no danger of pulling off the wall). I pulled the screws loose by raising the table vs pressure on the table. I put in larger screws and may take a second look at it when we get home from our maiden voyage but it seems ok now.
We have used the table a lot more than most as Colleen has her office set up on it. I would say it is tied as our favorite mod so far (we mounted our railed version of the Andersen hitch 4" back, lots of room with the tailgate down and plenty of cab clearance for 90° turns.

You are limited by table thickness for the screws. I used construction adhesive and glued the mount to table. Hasn’t budged and we use the table all the time.😎

[dmdunca44]

Originally Posted by wdr2

Here are photos of my install:

Attachment 29333

Attachment 29334

Attachment 29335

Attachment 29336

I love the clean, uncluttered look. What are the table dimensions?

[Ronn]

Originally Posted by Chotch

You are limited by table thickness for the screws. I used construction adhesive and glued the mount to table. Hasn’t budged and we use the table all the time.😎

Great tip, we are home after 3 weeks. Colleen worked on the table 3 days a week plus we had quite a bit of rain so played cards on it plus some meals. Not a bit of a problem. I may still make some adjustments mounting the table to the Lagun, but it just moved farther down on the to do list. Lagun worked out great!

[wdr2]

Originally Posted by dmdunca44

I love the clean, uncluttered look. What are the table dimensions?

I used 34.5in x 21in and that has been just right for us. I offset the mount by 1” from the center in the 21in direction so we can vary the space along the back bench by 2” (child versus adult seating). This length allows the table top to be used as the bed support.

Bill

[gklott]

Installed our Lagun mount. Filled the 4" and 6" wide front bench wall openings with 3/4" plywood, and mounted 1/2" plywood across the front bench inside. As recommended, added 3/4" aluminum angle along the top of the front bench - 48" long.

To further support the Lagun base plate, we installed two custom brackets made using 80/20 model 1010 (1") extruded aluminum. We use the 80/20 products on lots of projects. Have four #14x2" screws through each bracket base into the raised dinette flooring. Used 5/16" bolts to mount the Lagun base, using one shim to push the base upper edge out slightly.

Had to relocate the inverter, which was on the inside back of the front bench just to the curb side of the load center. This also required changing wire lengths to the inverter, and we added two 250A BlueSea DC busbars. Added the inverter ground wire after taking the photo with the negative busbar as the DC and AC system common reference point and ground.



We used our original tabletop for now.



The Lagun has made a HUGE improvement in the dinette and overall trailer feel. Can highly recommend this modification, as others describe, to everyone. The mount is well worth the $200.

73/gus

[h2owmn]

Nice looking and certainly sturdy!

[Greg A]

Very nice work and possibly the 2nd 19 Lagun Install.
Plus, it looks like you have our fabric or similar.. Great minds.

[Berndad]

Originally Posted by Greg A

Very nice work and possibly the 2nd 19 Lagun Install.
Plus, it looks like you have our fabric or similar.. Great minds.

I have the table mount for our 19 and can't wait to work on our install!

[gklott]

Originally Posted by Berndad

I have the table mount for our 19 and can't wait to work on our install!

Do you have the inverter to relocate? Glad to help if we can. It’s a fun and rewarding project.

73/gus

[Telescopist]

Originally Posted by wdr2

I used 34.5in x 21in and that has been just right for us. I offset the mount by 1” from the center in the 21in direction so we can vary the space along the back bench by 2” (child versus adult seating). This length allows the table top to be used as the bed support.
Bill

Bill, those dimensions are close to what I had in mind. Could you post an image of the table? Thanks.

[brightday]

Originally Posted by Kent

I had seen others who had switched the handle on the Lagun table mount from the factory/stock position to the opposite side. Moving the handle to the opposite side makes sense as the stock position puts it right next to the power center.

I'm working on the build sheet for a 17B, my first RV, and the U-shaped table is already on my list. I love the Lagun table mount, because I like the open spaciousness when the table's removed - more of a living area. (I'll happily dine with a tray in my lap or at a drop-down table placed next to the door.)

Please forgive my naivete , but before asking ETI if they can manage it in the 17B and how much it'll cost, I'm wondering why leaving the hardware in its stock position next to the power center is problematic.

Thanks!

[gbaglo]

Originally Posted by brightday

I'm working on the build sheet for a 17B, my first RV, and the U-shaped table is already on my list.

Where will this U-shaped table go? And where will you sleep? Are you converting the rear dinette every morning and night?

[brightday]

Originally Posted by gbaglo

Where will this U-shaped table go? And where will you sleep? Are you converting the rear dinette every morning and night?

Strangely enough, I sleep far better on a sofa with firm cushions than on any of the (many!) mattress I've tried throughout the years, including some of the most expensive. (Next week at the beach house with family, I'll do as I always do - forego the available bedroom for the leather sofa.) I'm hoping that ETI will arrange the frame of the little dinette into a permanent bed with storage cabinets below, deduct the cost of the mattress I cannot use, and leave the cushions "as is" for me to use in that space. If not, I'll leave the rear dinette as is on the build sheet and make the necessary adjustments after picking the trailer up.

One never knows what the future holds, but re-sale value isn't the priority for me that it might be for others. I've spent hours and hours these past six weeks pouring over comments on this forum and others, so I'm fairly confident that this size Escape, the open-floor plan I happily stumbled upon, and all of the options needed to maximize my ability to boondock 90% of the time will allow me to enjoy the next 10-20 years of RV life before health and age force me to take advantage my long-term care policy. The only remaining question for me is whether or not to purchase the foam insulation, and I'm still on the fence about that.

Already on the build sheet are the solar panel, the port for additional solar panels, dual 6v batteries, inverters, thermal windows, etc. -items that most recommend for long-term boondocking. I'm also asking that ETI install heat tape beneath the trailer, as this will be less expensive than 2 heat pads at a cost of $1000. Many say that insulation added beneath the trailer is unnecessary while adding to the trailer's weight and expense - another $1000. I tend to view it as others do, as added insurance against weather extremes whenever I'm caught in them - Houston's summer heat as well as Canada's winter snows. I'm still on the fence about what to do there.

[gbaglo]

Originally Posted by brightday

Strangely enough, I sleep far better on a sofa

Got ya. You're going to use the front dinette as a permanent bed. No need to forgo a mattress though.

That's where I sleep, on the cushions, when I go camping with my buddy. He gets the double at the back.
It's quite cozy and wide enough for me.

[cpaharley2008]

Originally Posted by brightday

Strangely enough, I sleep far better on a sofa with firm cushions than on any of the (many!) mattress I've tried throughout the years, including some of the most expensive. (Next week at the beach house with family, I'll do as I always do - forego the available bedroom for the leather sofa.) I'm hoping that ETI will arrange the frame of the little dinette into a permanent bed with storage cabinets below, deduct the cost of the mattress I cannot use, and leave the cushions "as is" for me to use in that space. If not, I'll leave the rear dinette as is on the build sheet and make the necessary adjustments after picking the trailer up.

One never knows what the future holds, but re-sale value isn't the priority for me that it might be for others. I've spent hours and hours these past six weeks pouring over comments on this forum and others, so I'm fairly confident that this size Escape, the open-floor plan I happily stumbled upon, and all of the options needed to maximize my ability to boondock 90% of the time will allow me to enjoy the next 10-20 years of RV life before health and age force me to take advantage my long-term care policy. The only remaining question for me is whether or not to purchase the foam insulation, and I'm still on the fence about that.

Already on the build sheet are the solar panel, the port for additional solar panels, dual 6v batteries, inverters, thermal windows, etc. -items that most recommend for long-term boondocking. I'm also asking that ETI install heat tape beneath the trailer, as this will be less expensive than 2 heat pads at a cost of $1000. Many say that insulation added beneath the trailer is unnecessary while adding to the trailer's weight and expense - another $1000. I tend to view it as others do, as added insurance against weather extremes whenever I'm caught in them - Houston's summer heat as well as Canada's winter snows. I'm still on the fence about what to do there.

Do not be surprised if there is no credit for no mattress as well as no heat tape option. The foam insulation is the best for your tanks in both winter and summer heat. With heat on inside your tanks will be fine, at least down to single digits. Also be wary of the inverter option, if you plan properly using 12v and propane, everything can operate off those 2 power sources, other than a/c. You will need hookups in the winter as well as summer heat, so other than that your solar will provide everything you need using 12v. Your water pump, stove, lights, furnace, refrigerator all operate off 12v and propane.