Modifications to Eggscape

[occer]

Originally Posted by Eggscape

Here is a video that Karl and Harrison from Escape Trailer did at the 2023 Rally in the Valley.

https://youtu.be/gVve6gNcyL8

Mr. Eggscape / Ed,
Very nice video and some great modifications.

Thank you for sharing.

[Chasing Trials]

Originally Posted by Ooshkaboo

Every few months these are available at Aldis.

Neat to see, & just reach in.

[Eggscape]

The Short Story: I used a standard yellow diesel tank for the stand alone source for our auxiliary diesel heater.

The Details: Many hours of thought went into where to mount the clear included diesel fuel tank or to build and mount a custom tank to supply our heater. Further thought was given to exactly how much we were going to use it and would the fuel still be fresh. Realistically if we missed a spring or fall camping season the fuel could be stale and require draining.

If I were to mount a tank on the trailer then I would typically want to carry a jerry can to refill it while camping. It became obvious to just use the jerry can as the single source of fuel for the heater. Similar to how fuel is delivered to an out board motor. This also works well as this jerry can is used frequently to refuel my wife’s front end loader keeping the fuel fresh.

I used the kits included fuel pickup stem that I screwed into the top of the tank along with the supplied rubber gasket. Standard rubber fuel line was used to connect the boat style connectors to the trailer. A boat style hand primer pump was installed in line as well. The same rubber line connects the fuel filter then to the metal fuel pump. From the pump it is very important, as you know from viewing the videos, to use the hard white fuel line as pictured. From the box to the heater I ran the white fuel line inside some 1/2 inch irrigation pipe that I attached to the body mounting bolts.

When the fuel line is disconnected from the tank it rolls up into the remaining space in the ammunition style box under the trailer. This box also houses the metal fuel pump surrounded by foam and the clear fuel filter. The foam around the pump helps deaden the tic tic of the pump.

So the big yellow tank is less obvious outside the trailer and to keep it clean from dirt splash, I will be putting it inside a black garage bag that has a draw string.

[Eggscape]

We were able to test the Diesel Heater a week ago at Howard Lake where it was cool and damp. It worked great and well worth the $200.

As we don’t camp a lot in the real cold, our usage is to give the trailer a shot of heat in the morning and at night. Thus, we are usually sitting at the table in the front of our 19 having breakfast or reading. This is why I put the fuel pump (which is located near the fuel tank) at the rear of the trailer to have the “Tic Tic” it creates as far away as possible. Sitting in the front it is barely noticeable however you can hear it in the rear bed. If you want to sleep with it on I would suggest mounting the fuel pump as far away from the bed as possible. In the outside front storage box of a 19 would be great.

I also modified an old fridge rack to go over the top and end of the heater to allow air flow in, yet storage around. The outside of the heater never gets so hot that you can’t hold your hand on it

Nights are going down to just above freezing now and there are lots of other fall things to do so Eggscape is being put to bed. With the long dark nights approaching this will give me a chance to catch up on the list of modifications still to write up.

[Eggscape]

I would like to start this modification with a cautionary note.
Upon installing our new lock I became aware that the square dead bolt part of the lock had not been full engaged due to the Fiberglass shell being in the way. I had to cut the Fiberglass away to allow the full movement of the dead bolt which also allows the inside leaver to fully move to the left.
No matter what lock you have installed, everyone should check to see that your dead bolt is completely engaged and not held back.
See photos attached.

The Short Story: Installing an electric door lock is one of the most convenient things that we use on the trailer and we will never be without one again.

The Details: I used to be a ‘manual jack and keyed door lock’ kind of guy, but things have changed. After enjoying the power tongue jack for a few years now, I decided to throw caution to the wind and install a combination power door lock.

Knowing that I was not going to get any deals at the local RV shop, I searched on Amazon.CA to see what was available. I found that many of the locks all looked the same. Some even have remote key fobs and replacement number pads included.

From earlier research I knew it was important to get one that is completely metal as some have plastic handles on the inside that are prone to break. Also, some people have had to replace the number pad as it starts to show wear and tear. I would just like to point out that if your number pad is starting to show signs of wear…you can select a different code and use the other numbers that are probably still like new. Seems obvious, but it is a common complaint.

I found a lock kit that came with everything that I wanted for $158 Canadian and looked just like the ones much higher in price.

What I did find incorrect on this lock was the molded-in diagram on the battery cover showing battery polarity placement. It showed the batteries in parallel for 3 volts but you could clearly see it was wired in series for a total of 6 volts. You will see in the photos the red/black wires at one end and the shorting plate at the other.

It is so convenient now to just be able to unlock the trailer at anytime camping or at home without digging out the keys. If the key fob is available we try and use that in an effort to make the key pad last as long as possible.

These door locks also come on sale throughout the year from US distributors during events like Black Friday etc..

Good luck on your selection and install.

[Eggscape]

The Short Story: I replaced the hard unmanageable shower hose with a longer, nice flexible one for $14.

The Details: I have never been satisfied with the quality of the bathroom taps but that is a mod for another day. However, the supplied shower hose, being so stiff, applies undo stress to the plastic tube within the tap.

If you check post number 148 you will see the strain relief I used to help keep everything in one piece. However, there is a simpler and all around better solution. That is to replace the shower hose with a super flexible one.

The one I got from Amazon.ca is great and under $14 Canadian. This, in my opinion, should be standard from Escape and if not, something you should consider replacing upon receiving your trailer.

For those of you waiting for your trailer, in the picture below you can see the white shower hose and how it can stand up by itself.

Happy showers.

[occer]

I like the idea of a more fixable hose.

Is the hose so flexible that it will swing back and forth while traveling and rub the bathroom enclosure or does it hang far enough away that it will not rub the wall?

[Centex]

Originally Posted by occer

I like the idea of a more fixable hose.

Is the hose so flexible that it will swing back and forth while traveling and rub the bathroom enclosure or does it hang far enough away that it will not rub the wall?

If you put the wand in the lav for travel the very flexible hose won't rub the wall. The hose is so flexible it lays in the lav just fine.

BTDT

[Eggscape]

That is what we do as well. It just rolls up in a tight coil and sits in the sink during travel.

[occer]

Originally Posted by Centex

If you put the wand in the lav for travel the very flexible hose won't rub the wall. The hose is so flexible it lays in the lav just fine.

BTDT

Originally Posted by Eggscape

That is what we do as well. It just rolls up in a tight coil and sits in the sink during travel.

10-4
Thanks

[Capitan19!]

Originally Posted by Mike & Donna

All very nice mods. Your new trailer looks great.

Is the wall hanging storage attached with command strips? Did you order it online?

I too am looking for these pockets! Anybody know the source?

[Eggscape]

Aliexpress is where I purchased mine years ago. Just search “wall storage pockets”

I can’t find the exact ones right now but there are some great fun designs available.

I cut the tabs off the top and used a screw in each corner.

[Eggscape]

The Short Story…I made a removable coat bar for our bathroom so we could dry wet clothing.

The Details…Our last trailer had the wasted area of a dry bath so l had made a coat bar for inside the shower to hang wet clothing. This worked out so well for us that we hung all of our coats in there and only removed them when we wanted a shower.

With our Escape we discovered we had no place to hang a couple of dripping wet coats. So with the previous success of hanging in the bathroom, another modification was in order.

The key to the coat bar are the ends. I 3D printed mine from a plan on “Thingiverse” but you can use a wide variety of ends from bottle caps to PVC pipe end caps. The PVC end caps are heavy duty, available at most hardware stores and inexpensive.

One end cap should have a bit of the top side removed so that the bar can be lifted out for removal. Our 19 shower walls dictated that the modified removal end be the sink side. The mirror side is a tight fit for an end so don’t go too big.

I used a large single stainless steal sheet metal screw (threads all the way to the head) to attach each end. I predrilled the end caps so the screw just fit through, then with a smaller drill bit predrilled the fiberglass wall so each screw fit snugly.

Once you have established what ends you are using, then you can select your bar. I used an old broom handle but wooden dowel or tubing can be purchased from your local hardware store.

[brroberts]

I didn’t use any ends or drill any holes. We just use a fairly large diameter, short, and cheap tension rod. It works great, and we can have a rod elsewhere besides the bath if wanted. It will stay up bouncing down the road just fine if needed.

[MrLynn]

Fill the tiny bath with coats—how do you use the toilet? or the sink?

[brroberts]

There is plenty of room to slide 2 raincoats along the rod to be out of the way. It’s not a closet, just a wet locker until stuff gets dry enough to put away. With the window and the bath fan to pull air, things can dry in a reasonable time. It works for beach towels, whatever. The rod is not permanent either. It really is helpful.

[h2owmn]

So clever! You (all) inspire me with your cleverness and ability to make an idea a reality.

It's usually just me, and no bathroom (17a). I use a 1/2 in. tension rod sitting on the top edge of the cabinet doors ...it doesn't even have to be tight, and is easy to remove for access to the cabinets. But I've never used it for anything dripping wet...mostly just damp towels. Simple and inelegant, but effective. Also doubles as a way to reach the electric on/off switch under the table.

[Eggscape]

Thanks for explaining that Randy as I was probably not clear on our past trailer and what we now do in our 19.
Glad to hear that a spring loaded rod has worked for you. I guess if it doesn’t for someone depending on what they purchase…they could also screw in a couple of un modified caps to make it work.

[brroberts]

There are adhesive rod brackets also. I’m not sure if they would stay adhered with shower moisture. I use them above our door for our tension rod supported half curtain just because we never take that down and I did not want some flying risk while driving.

In the picture of the tension rod curtain you can see the support ends.