Can I safely move the trailer a bit farther away from the tow vehicle?

bobwirtz · 12-02-2021, 11:55 AM

All,
I can't fully lower the tail gate of our tow vehicle because it hits the power jack head. I need about an inch more distance between the tail gate and the jack to get around the problem.
It occurs to me that I could get that additional separation by adding a new hole for the hitch pin in the ball mount tube that is behind (farther from the ball) the existing one. However, I don't know what risk if any I would incur by doing this. I am using the Fastway E2 from ETI and towing a 19.
I would greatly appreciate any thoughts or comments. Thanks in advance.

**Donna D.** · 12-02-2021, 11:56 AM

Have you turned the power head yet?

bobwirtz · 12-02-2021, 11:59 AM

Looked into that today only to learn that the post for the jack head is not pre-drilled for the new position. I am not at all sure of my ability to drill two new holes in the post as precisely as would be needed.

rubicon327 · 12-02-2021, 12:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bobwirtz

Looked into that today only to learn that the post for the jack head is not pre-drilled for the new position. I am not at all sure of my ability to drill two new holes in the post as precisely as would be needed.

Is it the Escape standard Lippert power jack? If so, they must have changed the design. In this video Angie simply threads two existing holes with a 5/16" course thread tap to secure the rotated head.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xeWl1CYH94U&t=401s

Ops · 12-02-2021, 12:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bobwirtz

Looked into that today only to learn that the post for the jack head is not pre-drilled for the new position. I am not at all sure of my ability to drill two new holes in the post as precisely as would be needed.

Go to your local mechanic and ask them to do it for you. Half hour job...tops...and they'll have all the necessary tools to get it done. Pay them for watching the video if necessary, it's worth the cost of doing it right the first time if you aren't a Red Green wannabe...

Rossue · 12-02-2021, 12:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bobwirtz

Looked into that today only to learn that the post for the jack head is not pre-drilled for the new position. I am not at all sure of my ability to drill two new holes in the post as precisely as would be needed.

Had the same dilemma with the first replacement of my Atwood and returned it to Amazon. The Bulldog didn't have that problem.

bobwirtz · 12-02-2021, 12:54 PM

Yes, it is the Escape standard Lippert power jack. I saw that video and was surprised to see that the required holes are not present, at least not in my case. I have also asked Fastway if it is feasible to move the hitch pin hole. That would require expert help (I am a decent carpenter but not much of a metalworker, and I don't own a drill press), but it would be a lot easier to take the hitch to a mechanic than to take the trailer to one.

kathytony1985 · 12-02-2021, 01:45 PM

We are also missing the "holes" to turn our power jack head. Someone on another thread suggested to me to stick a rag with a magnet down the tube to catch any metal filings and drill holes. We are going to give it a try.

buellfire · 12-02-2021, 02:17 PM

Good ideas: Magnet, or rag, and a thick layer of grease on top of anything important will make the cleanup of metal shaving easier also. I rotated my power head a couple of years ago to clear the tailgate on my Tundra. The holes were there in my jack.

rubicon327 · 12-02-2021, 02:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bobwirtz

Yes, it is the Escape standard Lippert power jack. I saw that video and was surprised to see that the required holes are not present, at least not in my case. I have also asked Fastway if it is feasible to move the hitch pin hole. That would require expert help (I am a decent carpenter but not much of a metalworker, and I don't own a drill press), but it would be a lot easier to take the hitch to a mechanic than to take the trailer to one.

Just a thought...if you have the 12" shank that typically comes standard you may not have much room to drill an additional hole to make enough of a difference and still have integrity of the shank. They make longer shanks like this at 18" that may solve your problem. This will push everything back about 6". Watch your 7 pin and safety chain lengths though.
https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories...0-02-4500.html

Fender · 12-02-2021, 03:20 PM

The ball mount that I use already has 2 holes so that the ball can be extended forward or back. I've had it so long I can't recall where I got it but I see a few images online (one from Curt) where the ball mount also has 2 holes.
A lot easier than getting holes drilled.

bobwirtz · 12-02-2021, 03:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bobwirtz

I have also asked Fastway if it is feasible to move the hitch pin hole.

Fastway has responded and says that they do not recommend drilling new holes and that doing so will void the warranty. I think I will instead try drilling new mounting holes in the jack post so I can turn the jack head.
Thanks, all, for the thoughtful responses. This community is most helpful.

pstyer · 12-02-2021, 06:30 PM

My 2018 F150 tailgate hit the power jack and it was too high to adjust the fastway hitch. I solved both problems with a four inch drop hitch.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Hope this helps.

Doug & Betty · 12-02-2021, 08:16 PM

Hitch up your trailer and raise the jack, remove the jack mounting bolts and rotate the head, carefully drop the tailgate and see if rotating the jack head will solve your problem. No point in paying someone to drill and tap new mounting holes if you need a solution different than rotating the head. You'll have to reverse all in order to unhitch...

I'm surprised the mounting holes don't line up in a rotated position. Must be a newer mount pattern. Something I'll have to look into out of curiosity.

Hope yo find a simple answer!
Doug

Dave Walter · 12-03-2021, 08:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rubicon327

Just a thought...if you have the 12" shank that typically comes standard you may not have much room to drill an additional hole to make enough of a difference and still have integrity of the shank. They make longer shanks like this at 18" that may solve your problem. This will push everything back about 6". Watch your 7 pin and safety chain lengths though.
https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories...0-02-4500.html

I second using a longer shank provided that your tow vehicle can manage this ok. It is a cheap and easy solution.

CharlesinGA · 12-03-2021, 04:21 PM

Hitch shanks come in all different lengths and drops. You do not need one of the same brand as the WD hitch head and bars, the vertical row of holes in the shanks are standardized at 3/4 inch holes, 1-1/4 inch apart, measured center to center, and the vertical part of the shank will be 2 inch square. The horizontal portion is either 2 inch, or 2-1/2 or even 3 inch depending on the tow vehicle. 2 inch is most common. You just need one that is longer in the distance between the hole for the pin and the holes for the hitch head attachment.

My Blue Ox hitch head is one inch longer and allows my tailgate to clear the tongue jack, while the equalizer hitch head I used for the first couple of tows (without bars) did not allow the tailgate to drop down.

Pardon the funny angle, I was trying to take the pic and hold the tailgate in position. 3rd gen Ram tailgates are HEAVY. Its closer than it looks.

Charles

bobwirtz · 12-03-2021, 04:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bobwirtz

I think I will instead try drilling new mounting holes in the jack post so I can turn the jack head.

I ended up drilling and tapping new holes in the jack post and turning the jack head 90 degrees. I did it by
1) removing the head (had to temporarily remove the propane tank platform to get enough slack in the power line)
2) putting painters blue tape around the top of the post
3) placing the head in the new position (had to manually rotate the jack to get the head to seat properly)
4) marking the location of the new bolt holes on the tape by pushing a fine thin pen through the bolt holes in the head
5) using a metal punch to create a starting dimple in the post to prevent the drill bit from wandering
6) drilling and tapping the new holes using a 5/16 tap set from Lowes

I am sure that a real metalworker would have done a better and more elegant job, but my approach was good enough; I had to jiggle the head a bit to get both bolts to thread properly in the new holes but ultimately both caught and tightened.

kathytony1985 · 12-03-2021, 04:51 PM

How did you keep the metal shavings from getting into the pipe?

bobwirtz · 12-03-2021, 04:52 PM

Pushed rags into the pipe before doing any drilling/tapping, then carefully removed the rags with the shavings using needle nose pliers.

**John in Santa Cruz** · 12-04-2021, 05:51 AM

I use a 12 and 1/2 in Long ball mount on my F-250 to tow my e21 and the tailgate just clears. It's a Curt, it has 2 in drop, and I don't remember the model number. I don't use any sort of wdh with his combination, and the longer tow bar does not seem to affect the stability at all of the whole system. On the other hand my truck weighs twice what the trailer weighs so that might have something to do with it

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