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Old 06-15-2017, 05:31 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paulk View Post
Those of you that check tire inflation frequently, do you do it via a dial, or just look to see if the wheel is sagging and resort to a dial if something looks amiss? Tire inflation is one of those things that I agree should be checked regularly, although maybe not each week.
I just use a pocket tire pressure gauge. You can't tell by looking at the tires. If they need air, I break out the Porter Cable compressor, which has a proper dial gauge and trigger on the hose.



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Old 06-15-2017, 07:58 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paulk View Post
Those of you that check tire inflation frequently, do you do it via a dial, or just look to see if the wheel is sagging and resort to a dial if something looks amiss?
I use this tire pressure gauge. It rides in a door pocket of the truck. I don't think I could visually see a 10# loss of air in a tire...

TireTek Flexi-Pro Tire Pressure Gauge, Heavy Duty Best For Car & Motorcycle - 60 PSI
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Old 06-15-2017, 08:06 AM   #23
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I check tire pressures each time I hitch up. These have worked very well for me, and the illumination makes them easy to read: Accutire MS-4004B
I also tend to walk around the trailer at each gas stop, do a quick "feel" test of bearings and brake drums and inspect all the hitch equipment.
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Old 06-15-2017, 09:36 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill and Earline View Post
If you have significantly more wear on one axle, I'd double check your ride angle/level or your WDH set up, if you have one. Another possible cause might be one axle has been doing more braking than the other. These brakes seems not to be very self adjusting.
Bill
I assumed that the uneven wear was because the axles are parallel, so one pair of tires must skid a bit when going around corners. But I've never looked into how the axle suspension works, so maybe I'm wrong.

Thanks for the info.
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Old 06-15-2017, 09:55 AM   #25
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Maintenance

Can anyone recommend a touch up paint for an Escape trailer? We seem to have picked up a few rock chips on our recent 7250 km trip through Utah. A hail storm also broke our skylight (temporarily repaired with duct tape), so we will see how the replacement goes this weekend.

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Old 06-15-2017, 09:59 AM   #26
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Rock chips are badges of honor I know folks like Fusion paint in Dover White for the plastic parts of the trailer.

When Ten Forward gets enough rock chips it's driving me nutz, I'll go get the area under the loft coated with a bed liner product.

Camp on!
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Old 06-15-2017, 10:13 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by padlin View Post
Before most trips:
Air pressure
Test gas appliances.

Yearly:
Lube hinges, locks, stabilizers, jacks, hitch, dump gates, awning arms, roll up screen door, step
Check caulking
Touch up frame paint
Wax trailer, at least I try. The front of the trailer gets waxed a lot more often as I'm always scrubbing off bugs
Clean vents

As needed:
Brakes and bearings, roughly 2 years
Sanitize fresh tank, when it's been sitting for a month or more
Batteries, a few times a year
Tire wear, when I think of it
Clean awning mildew

Had the brakes and bearings checked the first year after it's first long trip, 7 or 8k miles. Will have them done again this summer, about 25k miles total.
Yup hinges etc. , locks , stabilizers and forgot a couple times a year flush out and if needed change out ,the anode rod in water heater . Pat
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Old 06-15-2017, 10:59 AM   #28
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Just to mention, trailer tires need to be replaced very five or six years at the most unless seen to be overly worn prior or have other problems. The replacement of trailer tires has nothing to do with the amount of tread seen, even if much still left. They are not the same as other tires.
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Old 06-15-2017, 11:49 AM   #29
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Just to mention, trailer tires need to be replaced very five or six years at the most unless seen to be overly worn prior or have other problems. The replacement of trailer tires has nothing to do with the amount of tread seen, even if much still left. They are not the same as other tires.
Good one Cathy . There is the date of manufacturer on the tires themselves and that is the date of age you are concerned with . Even though we purchased our trailer in 2013 , our tires were dated 2012 . Already fixed a flat and wanted a stronger trailer tire especially because where we have to back in there is a lot of sidewall scrubbing to get trailer in at home . Sometimes found myself driving 65 mi and wanted to go up to D .Reasons we replaced tires now . Pat
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Old 06-15-2017, 01:00 PM   #30
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Good one Cathy . There is the date of manufacturer on the tires themselves and that is the date of age you are concerned with . Even though we purchased our trailer in 2013 , our tires were dated 2012 . Already fixed a flat and wanted a stronger trailer tire especially because where we have to back in there is a lot of sidewall scrubbing to get trailer in at home . Sometimes found myself driving 65 mi and wanted to go up to D .Reasons we replaced tires now . Pat
You were early for your storage reasons. But many do not know that even with plenty of tread, tires need to be replaced in 5-6 years and some manufacturers recommend earlier. You see people saying that they have had their trailer tires forever because they still have tread.
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Old 06-15-2017, 01:05 PM   #31
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You were early for your storage reasons. But many do not know that even with plenty of tread, tires need to be replaced in 5-6 years and some manufacturers recommend earlier. You see people saying that they have had their trailer tires forever because they still have tread.
Right Cathy . We would be 5 years in Nov. anyway . The tires I put on should get us 6-7 years now . Just did this last month . Pat
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Old 06-16-2017, 02:41 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Donna D. View Post
I check all the lights every trip (at departure), if they work so does the 7-pin. I check the brakes when I get in the truck

I lube the springs once a year.
I check the condition of the tires before every trip at the same time tire pressure.
Bearings and brakes checked (at shop) every 2-3 years, depending on miles towed.
No safety chains
Lube king pin as needed and same with hitch. Inspect then.
Clean Battery Cables & Terminals / Check Fluid, twice a year (one of those during winterizing).
Check all caulking around vents, lights every time trailer washed.
Lubricate all locks as needed or at winterizing.
Torque lug nuts twice within 300 miles after a wheel/tire change (and if I think about it any other time)
Hi Donna,
Is lubricating springs only applicable on the TA 5.0? If not, how do you do this?
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Old 06-16-2017, 02:48 PM   #33
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I'm taking the chance of being ridiculed for being OCD, but here is my long service list. It was based on servicing our Casita but I'm converting it to being Escape specific.

Monthly
* Clean AC filter
* Recharge the battery for 8 hours if disconnected
* Put a double dose of black tank treatment in the gray tank.
* Check all alarms and fire extinguishers
* Check tire pressure
* Dry out awning

Quarterly - Last done:
* Wash and wax trailer
* Spray plastic, awning and tires with 303 UV Aerospace Protectant
* Spray window (and door?) gaskets with 303
* Spray Max fan rubber gasket with 303
* Check water heater anode
* Check battery water levels
* Wipe down walls and ceiling
* Check spare tire pressure. 65psi. Check spare mount does not wobble and lug nuts are tight
* Test brake away switch. Use compass. Casita A-Z page I-6.

Semi-Annual - Last done:
* Remove AC cover and inspect
* Check calking on all roof penetrations, around windows and doors
* Check weep holes under the trailer are clear
* Check sink and bathroom plumbing connections are tight
* Pressurize fresh water system and check for leaks
* Clean the kitchen faucet aerator
* Clean fresh water fill vent screen
* Replace external water filter - Camco TastePure inline filter - Amazon $17.33
* Vacuum propane detector sensor
* Clean with trimmed fingernail file and WD-40 7 pin connector on Escape and Tundra. Spray with WD-40 Contact Cleaner at Amazon $7.30
* Lubricate hitch latches
* Check adjustment of clamp holding hitch ball. When hitched, spring should compress 1/2 way. Casita A-Z page I-6
* Test garage 30 amp supply with ground indicator/voltage protection box

Annual
- Last done:

Electrical
* Test GFCI plug by the sink and next to stove
* Test all plugs for proper ground
* Test garage 30 amp supply ground fault trip
* Tighten the screws holding the wires inside the AC breaker box
* Remove corrosion and tighten the ground screws underneath the battery box and any other locations

Plumbing
* Sanitize fresh water system and white hose. Add one or more gallons of water with 1/4 cup of bleach. Fill tank and pump through system. Casita Factory Owners Manual pg 32.
* Disassemble, clean and lub dump valves with silicon grease
* Clean internal water filter
* Flush water heater, descale with wand. Check water heater LP flame.
* Check Water Heater bypass valves for smooth operation

Lub Outside Trailer
* Grease front jack crank
* Clean grease out of Casita hitch socket
* Lub the stabilizing jacks with garage opener chain lub
* Check the door and door latch screws are tight, wf-40 hinges. Put blue lok-tite on screws if loose.
* Grease door strike plate
* Lub locks with WD-40 Silicone, dry graphite or Triflon teflon
* Lub window slides and screen door sliding panel with WD-40
* Check awning retract feature by shaking the rails for 8 seconds

Lub and Tighten Inside Trailer
* Lub bathroom fan slide with vaseline
* Lub bathroom cupboard seal with vaseline
* Lub cupboard hinges and check hinge screws are tight
* Tighten all molding screws along floor
* Check acorn nuts are tight
* Tighten closet shelf bolts
* Wash range hood filters
* Check bracket screws under sink that are holding sink to counter
* Tighten bolts holding captain’s chairs to floor. 7/16” socket
* Tighten table support bolts
* Tighten TV bracket bolts
* Tighten table support bolts

Propane -
* Check Propane hoses for cracks and leaks.
* Check lug nuts in bottom of back of refrigerator for tightness
* Clean refrigerator burner and tap on flu to knock out rust using this video. Afterwards check LP flame is bright blue.
* Check hot water heater propane flame

Winterizing (Factory owner’s maual pg 36)
* Drain gray and black tanks, open up to air
* Drain and vent hot water heater. Leave the anode out.
* Hook up space heater in bathroom to cold weather thermostatically controlled outlet
* Open up closet and lower cupboard doors
* Blow out water lines and add antifreeze for temps in lower 20s

Longer Time
* ??: Change battery in fire alarm (every 2 years)
* ??: Change out CO detector (every 5 years)
* ??: Disassemble and lub Water Heater bypass valve with silicone grease (Photo and o-ring information in HWH Bypass Valve Rebuild Update) (every 5 years)
* ??: Propane detector (every 7 years)
* ??: Smoke detector (every 10 years)
* ??: Replace fire extinguishers (every 12 years)
* ??: Replace LP tanks (every 12 yrs)

Mileage
* 400 mi: Adjust brakes (every 4k)
* 6k: Rotate tires Spare -> Rear Curb side -> Front Curb Side -> Front Driver’s side -> Rear Driver’s side -> Spare (every 6k)
* 10k: Clean sway bar friction surface with wire brush (every 10k)
* 12k: Inspect brakes. Replace if < 1/16” thick. (every 12 k)
* 12k: Repack wheel bearings, replace seals (every 12k)
* ??: Replace tires (every 4 years)
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Old 06-16-2017, 02:54 PM   #34
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Old 06-16-2017, 03:08 PM   #35
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Okay, Richard, you are very ambitious! Just to mention that most of us have 50 psi on the tires but I understand that that has changed on new Escapes.

For 30 gallons of fresh water, you need 1/2 cup bleach. It is 1/4 cup per 15 gallons. Contact we were last told here by a "water sanitation expert" is at least 4 hours.

The other item that I would mention is that a locksmith once told me never to use WD40 on locks or it will mess them up. Believe he said to use something such as Tri-Flow.
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Old 06-16-2017, 03:21 PM   #36
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Hi Donna,
Is lubricating springs only applicable on the TA 5.0? If not, how do you do this?
Are the 2017 5.0TAs axles mounted on springs? I don't know. But on MY trailer there's a zerk, right in the middle on the bottom.
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Underslung_axle_setup_tandem.jpg  
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Old 06-16-2017, 03:32 PM   #37
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wow that's a lot i guess i need to get married or my Escape will be neglected. I try to do some of the above but i certainly don't get all of that done! thanks reading what you all do helps me to identify what i should do and when.
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Old 06-16-2017, 08:15 PM   #38
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Originally Posted by Donna D. View Post
Are the 2017 5.0TAs axles mounted on springs? I don't know. But on MY trailer there's a zerk, right in the middle on the bottom.
I've seen wet bolt kits for the Dexter leaf springs. Had to have the brackets and shackles replaced on my old single axle trailer when the holes got elongated. Supposedly the wet bolts prevent it.
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Old 06-17-2017, 12:19 AM   #39
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Hi Donna,
Is lubricating springs only applicable on the TA 5.0? If not, how do you do this?
There is no lubrication of the suspension required or desired on the Torflex suspension which is now used on all Escape trailers, including the 5.0TA. The first couple of years of the 5.0TA model (including Donna's) used beam axles with leaf spring suspension, which can involve lubrication; this suspension is no longer used by Escape (as of 2016, even the 5.0TA gets Torflex).

Quote:
Originally Posted by padlin View Post
I've seen wet bolt kits for the Dexter leaf springs. Had to have the brackets and shackles replaced on my old single axle trailer when the holes got elongated. Supposedly the wet bolts prevent it.
Although greased bolts are available, at the location Donna showed is the E-Z Flex rubber-cushioned equalizer (in all of the leaf-spring 5.0TA photos that I've seen, but perhaps not all leaf-spring 5.0TAs), which has grease fittings... and needs them, because it has plain metal-on-metal rotating bearings. The E-Z Flex also apparently comes with wet bolts for the shackles, so there are lots of grease points.
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Old 06-17-2017, 12:29 AM   #40
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* Check spare tire pressure. 65psi.
Richard, as you update this list to suit the Escape, check the tires (just read the sidewall).

65 psi is the typically maximum inflation pressure for Load Range D tires; Casita (or Casita owners) shifted to Load Range D because LR-C tires of the size used were proving to be inadequate. Escape tires are sized so they have more than sufficient capacity in Load Range C; LR-C trailer tires have a maximum inflation pressure of 50 psi. Last I heard, Escape was using ST205/75R15 tires (by Carlisle) in Load Range C... but specs can change at any time.
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