No air coming through kitchen sink

[SageRpod]

Originally Posted by beebobby

How do you keep the dog from chasing it?

LOL! It's a full time job.

[Ooshkaboo]

Originally Posted by mresseguie

I’ve watched videos and spoken with a person on how to use the inflator, so I’m confident I am doing it correctly. However, the inflator keeps giving me an error message. I’m so incredibly frustrated right now.

If you’re using the water pressure check valve at the same time it will do that. No need for the check valve.
It will also need to be periodically restarted. It took me a bit to work it out, but it gets smoother.
Big advantage is I can do a winterizing on the fly, with the same unit used to top off all my various tires.

[mresseguie]

Originally Posted by Ooshkaboo

If you’re using the water pressure check valve at the same time it will do that. No need for the check valve.
It will also need to be periodically restarted. It took me a bit to work it out, but it gets smoother.
Big advantage is I can do a winterizing on the fly, with the same unit used to top off all my various tires.

Yup. I bought a Milwaukee 'M18' inflator. It's more than capable enough to blow out the lines at 30 psi, 40 psi....all the way up to 120 psi, but I know not to go that high. The end of the inflator hose connector/adapter (whatever it is called) was not correctly contacting/pressing/engaging the shrader valve. Perhaps I don't want a schrader valve? Perhaps I just want a wide open tube. Beats the heck out of me.

The winterizing instructions in my manual are laughable at best, and <after two separate attempts> totally useless. I was told there are a couple more videos which may shed light on why I'm failing. I certainly hope so. There is a Camping World 70+ miles to my north and another similar store 40 minutes to my south. I may just have to drive down there to chat and/or beg for instruction.

Edit: It occurred to me that the hose end and the same sized end on my homemade blowout adapter are not compatible. I will drive to Junction City to purchase a blowout adapter like the one pictured above. This ought to rectify the situation. If it doesn't, I'll ROAR at the sky like a banshee in the night. [Sounds poetic, but the reality will be much cruder.]

[Ron in BC]

My air compressors don't give me any error messages.

What matters is; is there air being blown out the nozzle? If so, it'll do the job.

Ron

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by beebobby

Kitchen sink hose that allows the spigot to be pulled out was crimped due to frying pan being shoved up against it. Those lines to the faucet look like stainless mesh, but are, in fact, plastic. Fortunately, I found out before I hooked up city water again. All I had to do was blow out kitchen sink.

It's great when it is a simple fix.

[occer]

You could try;
Robnett's Hardware
400 SW 2nd St, Corvallis, OR

they may have the fitting you are looking for.

Also I am in Corvallis today & Tomorrow, you may borrow mine till you are able to get one.

[Ooshkaboo]

Not sure if this helps, but this is what I use.

[mresseguie]

Originally Posted by Ooshkaboo

Not sure if this helps, but this is what I use.

We have the same air pump/inflator. Even though it is more expensive and a bit heavier than the smaller inflator, this unit uses an 18v battery instead of the smaller 12v battery, and has a screen to tell you it's not working. [Tt's morning now. I'm more relaxed, so I can find humor in my situation.]

As I discovered last night, the combination of three joined adapters intended to emulate a real blowout adapter aren't compatible with the hose end. I ordered a real blowout adapter from Amazon last night which is supposed to be delivered tomorrow afternoon.

There won't be any freezing temperatures this week, so I no longer have the time pressure I felt the past two nights. The past two nights saw temps drop to 29 or 30 degrees, but nothing froze.

[mresseguie]

Originally Posted by Ooshkaboo

Not sure if this helps, but this is what I use.

Originally Posted by occer

You could try;
Robnett's Hardware
400 SW 2nd St, Corvallis, OR

they may have the fitting you are looking for.

Also I am in Corvallis today & Tomorrow, you may borrow mine till you are able to get one.

Thank you for the offer and suggestion. I really like Robnett's Hardware. It's run by a husband and wife team. They and their employees are always very helpful and <most importantly> knowledgeable. They don't have the blowout adapter in stock.

If I hadn't ordered a new blowout adapter from Amazon last night which will be delivered tomorrow and tonight's temperature were going to dip below freezing again, I would happily and humbly accept your offer. I think everything will work out just fine at this point.

My single biggest gripe is the poor documentation in the owners manual, and similar lack of <very necessary> information in the official winterizing video. Considering these trailers cost $40k to $65k, the owner's manual is sorely lacking. Take a look at a new (or even used) car's owner's manual and compare it to ETI's.

[iamunique127]

This thread has given me the idea that I don't need to haul my 3 gallon compressor out to the storage lot to winterize the trailer- I can use the new 12V compressor/inflator I just bought for the truck and trailer. I'll just locate one of the proper blow-out valve.

Thanks for the idea.

[Ooshkaboo]

Originally Posted by mresseguie

Thank you for the offer and suggestion. I really like Robnett's Hardware. It's run by a husband and wife team. They and their employees are always very helpful and <most importantly> knowledgeable. They don't have the blowout adapter in stock.

If I hadn't ordered a new blowout adapter from Amazon last night which will be delivered tomorrow and tonight's temperature were going to dip below freezing again, I would happily and humbly accept your offer. I think everything will work out just fine at this point.

My single biggest gripe is the poor documentation in the owners manual, and similar lack of <very necessary> information in the official winterizing video. Considering these trailers cost $40k to $65k, the owner's manual is sorely lacking. Take a look at a new (or even used) car's owner's manual and compare it to ETI's.

Look for this on their website. along with the people on here you will be good to go.
I have also found some of the manufacturers tech support to be helpful.

[Ron in BC]

Originally Posted by iamunique127

This thread has given me the idea that I don't need to haul my 3 gallon compressor out to the storage lot to winterize the trailer- I can use the new 12V compressor/inflator I just bought for the truck and trailer. I'll just locate one of the proper blow-out valve.

Thanks for the idea.

Blowing out the lines involves two phases. One is the bulk blowout and that's when slugs of water come out up until the point where it seems that just air is coming out.

If you ever watch something like clear vinyl with loops having the water blown out you'll see that after the bulk blowup happens there's still moisture in the tubing. It sheets around the circumference and the interior is still moist. Over time that moisture can settle into low points etc.

That's why the volume of air is important. A low volume will blow out the bulk air but won't move the sheeted water along and dry the interior nearly as well as a high volume of air will.

So, with a low volume air compressor keep the air flowing even after it seems that the water is out.

Ron

[Ooshkaboo]

Originally Posted by Ron in BC

Blowing out the lines involves two phases. One is the bulk blowout and that's when slugs of water come out up until the point where it seems that just air is coming out.

If you ever watch something like clear vinyl with loops having the water blown out you'll see that after the bulk blowup happens there's still moisture in the tubing. It sheets around the circumference and the interior is still moist. Over time that moisture can settle into low points etc.

That's why the volume of air is important. A low volume will blow out the bulk air but won't move the sheeted water along and dry the interior nearly as well as a high volume of air will.

So, with a low volume air compressor keep the air flowing even after it seems that the water is out.

Ron

When I picked up my Milwaukee last year that was a concern of mine. So I followed up on all the lines with my Dewalt job site compressor, all was clear and it made it thru the winter. Every now and then a tool improvement turns out to be a game changer, battery powered nail gun and multi-tool are a few more

[iamunique127]

Originally Posted by Ron in BC

Blowing out the lines involves two phases. One is the bulk blowout and that's when slugs of water come out up until the point where it seems that just air is coming out.

If you ever watch something like clear vinyl with loops having the water blown out you'll see that after the bulk blowup happens there's still moisture in the tubing. It sheets around the circumference and the interior is still moist. Over time that moisture can settle into low points etc.

That's why the volume of air is important. A low volume will blow out the bulk air but won't move the sheeted water along and dry the interior nearly as well as a high volume of air will.

So, with a low volume air compressor keep the air flowing even after it seems that the water is out.

Ron

Thanks. Yeah, even with my larger compressor at 45 lbs. I was getting moist air coming out of the lines for a long time. Next to the water pump was a clear hose about 1/2" ID with a low point that was still holding water in the bottom of the hose. I lifted the hose around an obstruction so all the water could clear. I made sure to run the pump again to get that bit of water out.

[MVA]

Originally Posted by Ooshkaboo

When I picked up my Milwaukee last year that was a concern of mine. So I followed up on all the lines with my Dewalt job site compressor, all was clear and it made it thru the winter. Every now and then a tool improvement turns out to be a game changer, battery powered nail gun and multi-tool are a few more

I have always used a pancake style compressor to blowout the water lines. You mentioned that you used the fitting (shown in post #15) with a air inflator and then followed up with your compressor. Did the air compressor push out more water after using the air inflator?

I carry a Viair inflator (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005ASY23I) when traveling. When traveling in the winter, not needing a compressor to winterize prior to heading home would be great.

[Ooshkaboo]

Originally Posted by MVA

I have always used a pancake style compressor to blowout the water lines. You mentioned that you used the fitting (shown in post #15) with a air inflator and then followed up with your compressor. Did the air compressor push out more water after using the air inflator?

I carry a Viair inflator (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005ASY23I) when traveling. When traveling in the winter, not needing a compressor to winterize prior to heading home would be great.

I also have a nice portable air tank compressor, but after noticing some on here getting by with way less I looked around. I already had a Milwaukee battery powered drain snake so I went with the Milwaukee brand. A bit of overkill it seemed at the time but now I’m sold on it. It’s made taking care of all my vehicles, bikes and trailers a breeze to stay on top of. Now along with my battery powered Milwaukee nail gun I no longer use my tank compressor, but it’s good to have.

The Milwaukee cleans out the lines to where they’re just spitting out air and mist, the follow up with my regular compressor just did more of the same. Nothing was left behind after the Milwaukee blowout.

[7Gentex]

Originally Posted by beebobby

Doing the compressed air thing like last year. Emptied the fresh tank, pulled anode from water heater and bypassed. Hooked up compressor (set at 40psi). Getting air through outside faucet, bathroom faucet, toilet, but no air through kitchen faucet hot or cold. Am I missing something?

Never mind..............saw you found the problem

1. HW is actually in bypass mode............though that would have effected all the other faucets.

2. All the other faucets are closed when you are trying to blow out the kitchen faucet.

[7Gentex]

Originally Posted by beebobby

Kitchen sink hose that allows the spigot to be pulled out was crimped due to frying pan being shoved up against it. Those lines to the faucet look like stainless mesh, but are, in fact, plastic. Fortunately, I found out before I hooked up city water again. All I had to do was blow out kitchen sink.

Bueno!

My house kitchen faucet does the same - really reduced flow.......

[MVA]

Originally Posted by Ooshkaboo

I also have a nice portable air tank compressor, but after noticing some on here getting by with way less I looked around. I already had a Milwaukee battery powered drain snake so I went with the Milwaukee brand. A bit of overkill it seemed at the time but now I’m sold on it. It’s made taking care of all my vehicles, bikes and trailers a breeze to stay on top of. Now along with my battery powered Milwaukee nail gun I no longer use my tank compressor, but it’s good to have.

The Milwaukee cleans out the lines to where they’re just spitting out air and mist, the follow up with my regular compressor just did more of the same. Nothing was left behind after the Milwaukee blowout.

Thanks.

I checked the M12 spec for SCFM at 0 psi: 1.47 SCFM. Very similar to the Viair P88. I will try it.

[beebobby]

Since that line has been crimped already, it's prone to crimping again in the same place. I need to fix a splint or something at the crimp to prevent this problem in the future. I'm thinking 1/2 popsicle sticks on 4 sides and gaffer tape. Maybe 1/4 sticks.