Battery Disconnect

[Telescopist]

Originally Posted by John in Santa Cruz

I don't think thats what was suggested. it was to disconnect the solar panels and use some trailer load off the batteries which are still connected to the trailer.

Thanks for straightening me out. I'll read something I don't have good background about 2x next time.

as far as the switch goes, you can use most any sort of battery disconnect switch rated for at least as much as the max solar voltage and amperage, wire this switch in series with the positive solar cable.

I used this disconnect switch, way overrated for the application
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07413JWLD/

and I installed it on the plywood panel under the rear bench seat of the U dinette on my 21C, where I put most of my electrical upgrades, the switch is in the upper left corner, right above the Victron SmartSolar MPPT 100/30 solar controller I used...


the black wire is the positive cable from the rooftop solar panel, the red wire goes to the PV+ input on the solar controller.

Thanks for the image. Got it.

[DGLP]

Originally Posted by jeffhaltiner

I know many of you are more knowledgeable/experienced on this than i am (new E19 (with 2 solar panels/2 lithium batteries, GoPower solar controller) but it seems problem/issues with the current solar setup are more than just the battery disconnect? My solar controller started flashing (while trailer was parked in d/w for several weeks uncovered.) The GoPower guide suggests that happens only when the battery voltage is above 15.3V (which mine wasn't). I tried soft and hard reset of the controller with no success. Eventually, the controller display switched to a POL (polarity error) even tho the battery polarity was correct.

After a v. frustrating week of work (the location/wiring of the GoPower unit makes it very hard to work on), i just ordered a new controller (under warranty from GoPower). ETI response to my repeated pleas for help was:
"Recently Escape has learned of the GoPower solar controllers overvolting when the solar panels are receiving full sun and the batteries are full. This can be rectified by using power and lowering the voltage stored in the batteries, a way around this is to install a switch between the solar panel and the solar controller. The solar controller will protect against the over voltages."

Well, it seems that the "over-voltage" fried my controller? Seems like a design flaw here? As recommended, I did install a new controller and the toggle switch on the positive lead (red) from the solar panel to the controller and will keep that turned off when the batteries reach 14V. Which i think is what others have done? But it seems a somewhat lame solution to me?

Separate question: Does anyone have a recommended Trailer repair shop/person in the Oakland (East Bay) or SF area. I need someone to consult/fix things when i get in over my head!

Thanks again to you regular forum contributors. SO helpful to us newbies!

This forum has been invaluable for me as a newbie. I purchased a Victron MPPT controller prior to picking up the 21 NE in May, based on the recommendations of members of the forum. I'm very pleased that I did so. The Go Power controller installed in the trailer was flashing (in the same manner as you described) when I first set up the trailer. I had asked for it to be left under the bench without being mounted, but production had begun and it was already installed by the time I had made my request. I found a black vent to cover the hole made during installation:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

A friend made a bracket for the MPPT controller from a 12-gauge stainless steel sheet - see photo. An additional bracket (same size and material) was used to remount the Orion DC-DC converter, which was situated on the floor. My friend, who has years of experience in the aerospace industry in Oregon, commented on the "FOD" or foreign objects and debris on the floor under the controller.

I added a DC breaker to act as a shut-off for the solar panels:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I installed the breaker in a junction box, which I then mounted on the plywood panel under the seat:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I used ferrules where appropriate. I also changed out some of the wiring and connectors after I found that the loom containing the AC cable running from the EMS to the WFCO was not only under significant tension: it completely covered, and was pressing against, the 30-amp auto-reset thermal circuit breaker at the corner of the underseat area, where the cables made a sharp bend. You will note that this loom was tightly bound to a number of cables with zip ties, which added to the tension. The result was a bent stud. There was also a loose nut on the stud, which resulted in a poor connection and arcing. You will note from the photos that the cap for the the stud was melting as was the body of the breaker beneath the base of the stud. Replacing the breakers and connectors led to a great improvement in charging, based on the data produced by the Victron battery monitor.

We've greatly enjoyed the trailer and, thanks to members of this forum, we feel more comfortable using it after having done some remediative work. Care and attention to detail does pay off.

[John in Santa Cruz]

Fwiw, I left my original gopower pwm controller in place and just disconnected it.. easier than filling the hole.