Driving on 12V ( & compression fridges)

[fudge_brownie]

I have spent hundreds of hours and thousands of dollars trying to get my RMD 8555 to work properly. Among my many discoveries was that the cavity that the refrigerator resides in was uninsulated. While insulating that I fashioned a flue of ductwork work to carry the heat off to the roof vent. This process has been described elsewhere.

I could never keep it cold while driving, even though my insulation and ductwork improved things. The final fix was a flame guard inside the outside vent. Careful that you follow the exact design, I tried two others without success. Two pieces of $.52 flashing from Home Depot and some duct tape.

For the past two years this has become a workable refrigerator, still not great over 95 degrees but pretty good otherwise.

Maybe you can save the money I spent?

[JPerodie]

Originally Posted by cpaharley2008

If I lived in Vancouver, I would return to Chilliwack for repairs........

I like that idea a lot, thanks for the suggestion. Although I think my fridge must operate much like many others'. I didn't think that Escape would call it "repairs" to do all the custom tinkering that members here have done to improve performance?

[JPerodie]

Originally Posted by fudge_brownie

I have spent hundreds of hours and thousands of dollars trying to get my RMD 8555 to work properly. Among my many discoveries was that the cavity that the refrigerator resides in was uninsulated. While insulating that I fashioned a flue of ductwork work to carry the heat off to the roof vent. This process has been described elsewhere.

I could never keep it cold while driving, even though my insulation and ductwork improved things. The final fix was a flame guard inside the outside vent. Careful that you follow the exact design, I tried two others without success. Two pieces of $.52 flashing from Home Depot and some duct tape.

For the past two years this has become a workable refrigerator, still not great over 95 degrees but pretty good otherwise.

Maybe you can save the money I spent?

I think your flame guard was to solve your problem of flame extinguishment while driving? If so, I'm glad that it worked. Luckily I've not had that problem.

I think you also installed your homemade flue extension? That seems like a good idea too.

[Sol-Go]

Originally Posted by Vermilye

Your assumption of 10 amps for a 100 watt panel & 20 amps for 200 watts is highly optimistic. 6 amps & 12 amps under ideal conditions (overhead sun with no clouds, and cool temperatures) is more likely.

I agree with assumptions 1, 2 &4.

As to the trailer disconnect - check to see if your tow vehicle already has one. If not, adding an isolation relay is the best way since you don't need to remember to shut it off.

Agreed. Max amperage from a 100W panel is usually 6A or 9A in near perfect conditions.

[JPerodie]

Originally Posted by Sol-Go

Agreed. Max amperage from a 100W panel is usually 6A or 9A in near perfect conditions.

Thank you, good to know.

[alanmalk]

Originally Posted by JPerodie

- also, I should use an isolator switch in my truck to break the battery to battery connection when I'm stopped.

Try this to determine if your truck is providing power to the trailer when stopped.

Plug the truck in as if you were driving. In the trailer turn on a few lights but nothing else. Disconnect the trailer battery with your main disconnect switch. Lights should go out. If not then the truck is providing power when you don't want it to (will drain the truck battery overnight).

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by alanmalk

Try this to determine if your truck is providing power to the trailer when stopped.

Plug the truck in as if you were driving. In the trailer turn on a few lights but nothing else. Disconnect the trailer battery with your main disconnect switch. Lights should go out. If not then the truck is providing power when you don't want it to (will drain the truck battery overnight).

You missed "shut off the truck"

[alanmalk]

Originally Posted by Brian B-P

You missed "shut off the truck"

Not precisely. What I did was make an ASS-umption.

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by alanmalk

Not precisely. What I did was make an ASS-umption.

That makes sense: you assumed testing with the truck not running. I would test with the truck running, to confirm that the truck supplies power, then shut it off and see if the power goes off.

[JPerodie]

Originally Posted by alanmalk

Try this to determine if your truck is providing power to the trailer when stopped.

Plug the truck in as if you were driving. In the trailer turn on a few lights but nothing else. Disconnect the trailer battery with your main disconnect switch. Lights should go out. If not then the truck is providing power when you don't want it to (will drain the truck battery overnight).

Sounds good, thanks for the tip.

[Vermilye]

If you have a F 150, you may need to put the truck in gear then neutral to turn on the feed to the trailer. It does shut off with the ignition, but just starting the truck won't turn it on (at least with a 2018).

[JPerodie]

Originally Posted by Vermilye

If you have a F 150, you may need to put the truck in gear then neutral to turn on the feed to the trailer. It does shut off with the ignition, but just starting the truck won't turn it on (at least with a 2018).

Thank you. GMC Sierra.