What did you do for your Escape today.....

[felix2]

I just installed the Beech Lane version of this two-fan unit. I also installed the interior fan by Beech Lane, routing the wire out the existing wire hole (thermocouples?). I ganged the leads with the existing rear fan leads to a solid 14AWG pigtail for connection to the terminal block - it’s rigid so that the leads don’t vibrate around so much. I also cut the leads to reduce the extra wire lengths as it already crowded in the compartment. Oh, and you need to move the exterior fan all the way towards the trailer front to avoid the propane shield otherwise you won’t be able to close the cover!

Hopefully this will cure the poor hot-weather performance of the Dometic fridge…now that fall is approaching I may have to wait till next year to find out!

Thanks for your post, it helped out!

[occer]

5.0 Landing Gear control extension.
The controls for the landing gear are inside a compartment on the driver side and it’s hard to operate and see the landing gear.
I made an extension cable control so I can now stand and see the landing gears as they move up or down.

One thing I would change, I would use a little bit deeper box, ( the depth of the switches and spud connectors made its a very tight squeeze.

[Chris R]

Landing gear extension is very useful, did that several years ago.

[Ron in BC]

Sigh, it's that time again, time to pack up the trailer. Since my Cruise Director, aka wife, has me off cruising during the period of Winter time that I'd normally head South it'll likely stay covered until next May.

First step, put the light weight poly sheet on. Since my ADCO cover is 8 years old and not pristine clean this protects the f.g. from any existing dirt and ensures that when I uncover the trailer in the Spring it'll be clean and ready to go. The ADCO cover isn't completely waterproof so this also ensures that the roof stays dry and clean.

Sigh, May seems so far away.

Ron

[tractors1]

Thanks to my TPMS alerts, I was always able to repair a leaking tire on my 2013-21 before I had to do a roadside flat fix or have a blowout. Finally decided it was time to replace the 10 year old tires (stored indoors.) Went with Goodyear Endurance load range D. Quite a bit more tire, rides a little stiffer - running 50 psi as always.

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by tractors1

Thanks to my TPMS alerts, I was always able to repair a leaking tire on my 2013-21 before I had to do a roadside flat fix or have a blowout. Finally decided it was time to replace the 10 year old tires (stored indoors.) Went with Goodyear Endurance load range D. Quite a bit more tire, rides a little stiffer - running 50 psi as always.

You could back down a bit on psi if you wanted a little softer ride. You have plenty of headroom with a loaded tandem axle Escape 21 when you look at a load/inflation chart. https://www.goodyearrvtires.com/pdfs/rv_inflation.pdf

[SageRpod]

Originally Posted by rubicon327

You could back down a bit on psi if you wanted a little softer ride. You have plenty of headroom with a loaded tandem axle Escape 21 when you look at a load/inflation chart. https://www.goodyearrvtires.com/pdfs/rv_inflation.pdf

I always thought you were supposed to go max inflation, or at least close, to avoid heat build up.

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by SageRpod

I always thought you were supposed to go max inflation, or at least close, to avoid heat build up.

Max inflation is something like 60-65 PSI. My opinion is that there is a load/inflation chart for a reason. I’m not suggesting to go super low but trying 40-45 for a softer ride should be fine.

[Rockhead]

I run our 21 at 55 psi cold. Found it to be smooth towing for us.

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by Ron in BC

First step, put the light weight poly sheet on. Since my ADCO cover is 8 years old and not pristine clean this protects the f.g. from any existing dirt and ensures that when I uncover the trailer in the Spring it'll be clean and ready to go. The ADCO cover isn't completely waterproof so this also ensures that the roof stays dry and clean.

If I recall correctly that poly sheet also saved you when your large vent cover was somehow destroyed under the cover over a past winter.

[SageRpod]

Originally Posted by Rockhead

I run our 21 at 55 psi cold. Found it to be smooth towing for us.

That's what I run on our 5.0 and is the recommended PSI from the manufacturer.

[h2owmn]

I have been using the over the door towel hooks in the sink area and they bug me. I had purchased a 4 pack of these for an in house use and only needed 1 so I put one in the trailer. A little project that will bring a lot of satisfaction. May find a spot for another somewhere in that area.

[Ron in BC]

Originally Posted by rubicon327

If I recall correctly that poly sheet also saved you when your large vent cover was somehow destroyed under the cover over a past winter.

Somehow. Moral of the story is don't use a hoe to smack the ice on the trailer roof.

Originally Posted by h2owmn

I have been using the over the door towel hooks in the sink area and they bug me. I had purchased a 4 pack of these for an in house use and only needed 1 so I put one in the trailer. A little project that will bring a lot of satisfaction. May find a spot for another somewhere in that area. Sorry for the sideways.

A towel rack just under the countertop works well also. It allows the towel to dry better between uses.

Ron

[iamunique127]

After ordering the wrong cover and returning it I finally got the right escape hatch cover for our 2015 5.0TA: Exit Vent Lid - Heng's Industries 90007-C1 Escape Hatch Lid 13" x 20" - White.

I painted it with a good coating of Krylon gloss white and got it on yesterday.



The frame of the escape hatch sure seems brittle. I won't be surprised if it shatters if we ever have to use it as an emergency exit.

[iamunique127]

I finally finished up my trailer exterior rejuvenation today when I replaced the old, yellowed and brittle Ventline range vent with the new Thetford Endura range vent.

As recommended by some ppl here I ordered the JR Products Endura Range Vent Model #: 50035 with the 1 1/2" flange. The first one I got was damaged and the replacement I was sent was the Thetford Endura #50035. Same vent, just a different brand name on it.

I took off the old Ventline and saw immediately that the 1.5" flange was far too deep. This is the factory opening. We have the extra insulation option so behind the fibreglass is the foil insulation and then two layers of the vinyl headliner stuff.




In fact, the old Ventline had been a deeper flange and had been trimmed to 5/8" to fit the factory opening, up to the vinyl wall covering.



So in my case, the JR Products Endura Model #: 50015 with 5/8" flange would have been the perfect depth. But the one I had was easily trimmed to the 5/8" depth with a hacksaw.

The next wrinkle was that the opening was cut to just fit the old Ventline and the new Thetford was 3/8" larger, width and length. So, out came the rotary tool to take 3/16" off each side of the opening so I could still use the same screw holes..



The new vent came with butyl tape for 3 sides and I sealed the bottom with Proflex RV. I re-used the old screws and the vent screw holes matched up to the holes in the fibreglass perfectly.

I'm real happy with the two latest upgrades: the white-painted escape hatch cover and the Endura range vent. The trailer feels new again without those old yellow parts.

[Grasshog]

I have a question about changing the mattress in my 5.0 ??

How difficult is it to remove the existing mattress and replace it??
My concern would be getting it through the door??
Thanks in advance Gary

[Centex]

Originally Posted by Grasshog

I have a question about changing the mattress in my 5.0 ??

How difficult is it to remove the existing mattress and replace it??
My concern would be getting it through the door??
Thanks in advance Gary

Tip: use a couple of ratchet-straps to keep it tightly folded while you concentrate on maneuvering.

BTDT

[Grasshog]

CENTEX,, thanks for the reply that’s a great idea. What if you want to put a regular mattress in that won’t fold meaning, not a foam type? Is that doable?

[Centex]

Originally Posted by Grasshog

CENTEX,, thanks for the reply that’s a great idea. What if you want to put a regular mattress in that won’t fold meaning, not a foam type? Is that doable?

Some innerspring mattresses are designed to be folded or rolled-up (my coil spring replacement was shipped 'vacuum-bagged' and rolled); I suggest you ask the mattress manufacturer / vendor about what can be done to the specific product you are considering.

Simply measuring the loft opening reveals that a 'rigid flat' mattress of the original size cannot fit at any angle - it must be 'folded' to some degree.

[Ian and Sue]

Originally Posted by Grasshog

I have a question about changing the mattress in my 5.0 ??

How difficult is it to remove the existing mattress and replace it??
My concern would be getting it through the door??
Thanks in advance Gary

We flipped ours a year or so ago(it helped for a little while). Bring it down from loft while turning it on edge into lower area. Next slide it out the door, flip it and bring it back in...easy peasy if you can do the lifting! We will probably be replacing ours next year. We will probably just get a regular queen innerspring as a replacement.