What did you do for your Escape today.....

[Grasshog]

OK that sounds good. That’s what I’m trying to figure out how to get the original one out. It’s OK but I know I can do better. I actually have one in a spare room at my house that is a foam type mattress. I think that trick with the ratchet straps, and folding it, I will be able to get it in hopefully ?? ,,thanks for showing me how to get the existing one out,,fingers crossed. I’m going to try this tomorrow.
What about the height of the mattress? Do you think a 10 inch mattress is too tall?
Thanks again for all the great info the shake rocks Gary

[SageRpod]

Originally Posted by Grasshog

OK that sounds good. That’s what I’m trying to figure out how to get the original one out. It’s OK but I know I can do better. I actually have one in a spare room at my house that is a foam type mattress. I think that trick with the ratchet straps, and folding it, I will be able to get it in hopefully ?? ,,thanks for showing me how to get the existing one out,,fingers crossed. I’m going to try this tomorrow.
What about the height of the mattress? Do you think a 10 inch mattress is too tall?
Thanks again for all the great info the shake rocks Gary

We have a 10 inch in our 5.0. You do lose some headroom but I’ll take comfort and a good nights sleep over headroom all day long.

[Ooshkaboo]

Originally Posted by Grasshog

OK that sounds good. That’s what I’m trying to figure out how to get the original one out. It’s OK but I know I can do better. I actually have one in a spare room at my house that is a foam type mattress. I think that trick with the ratchet straps, and folding it, I will be able to get it in hopefully ?? ,,thanks for showing me how to get the existing one out,,fingers crossed. I’m going to try this tomorrow.
What about the height of the mattress? Do you think a 10 inch mattress is too tall?
Thanks again for all the great info the shake rocks Gary

It’s easily modified, a razor blade and a tape measure.
Next I'll be trimming off the green pillow top part, making room for a bed foundation project.

[tractors1]

Replaced my 10 year old rusty lug nuts with 304 stainless steel ones. Much better! https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[occer]

Originally Posted by tractors1

Replaced my 10 year old rusty lug nuts with 304 stainless steel ones. Much better! https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I would not use SS for this application, I have never used SS on a mailable iron like a wheel stud so maybe it will be okay but SS galls very easy and once galled both the nut and bolt are ruined you can not get them apart.
When using SS at work we always used Anti-seize and I’m not sure I want anti-seize on lug nuts. Maybe somebody who’s A metal allergist will pipe in.


Just reread your post 304 SS has more iron then 316 so they may work, but also 304 SS rusts. Not as fast but none the less inside where the threads are it will rust.

[tractors1]

Originally Posted by occer

I would not use SS for this application, I have never used SS on a mailable iron like a wheel stud so maybe it will be okay but SS galls very easy and once galled both the nut and bolt are ruined you can not get them apart.
When using SS at work we always used Anti-seize and I’m not sure I want anti-seize on lug nuts. Maybe somebody who’s A metal allergist will pipe in.


Just reread your post 304 SS has more iron then 316 so they may work, but also 304 SS rusts. Not as fast but none the less inside where the threads are it will rust.

Had metallurgy in college (retired mechanical engineer) and galling in this application is reduced by NOT using air tools to spin the nuts on; only for final tightening. Heat caused by rapid spinning causes the threads between the two metals surface weld (gall.) 304 will rust, but no more than my original chrome plated pitted lug nuts.

[WillyB]

The key difference between 304 vs 316 stainless steel that makes them different is the addition of molybdenum, an alloy that drastically enhances corrosion resistance, especially for more saline or chloride-exposed environments. 316 stainless steel contains molybdenum, but 304 does not.

Passivation is another item to remember about stainless steel and rust. SS will "rust" (oxidize) and there are several products to use for this process. Citric acid being one of them. But keeping SS clean is a key factor.

[occer]

Originally Posted by tractors1

Had metallurgy in college (retired mechanical engineer)

I received the email that you had posted,
I started laughing so hard. “ A metal allergist”. 🤣
I obviously miss spelled metallurgist and auto correct “corrected” it for me.

I need to proof read my posts!

[HABBERDABBER]

Originally Posted by occer

I received the email that you had posted,
I started laughing so hard. “ A metal allergist”. 🤣
I obviously miss spelled metallurgist and auto correct “corrected” it for me.

I need to proof read my posts!

Titanium is the only one that I don't reject. Lightweight, expensive as all get out, shiny....oh, I forgot about good old Gold. Gold is good.

[MyronL]

My backyard protection from sun, rain, snow and hail lasted about 5 years, until high winds did a number on it. Installed a replacement cover today and, for good measure, added a sacrificial tarp on top. (Couldn't find one in white.)

[Ron in BC]

You're lucky that you can use one of those shelters.

Around here the building department says they're non-conforming and prohibited because they can't carry the snowload for this area.

Ron

[iamunique127]

I finally had an open tube of ProFlex RV (from sealing the upper tail lights again) so I used a few dabs to seal the screws on the replacement stainless steel door hinges we'd bought years ago.





My wife hadn't realized the old ones were getting tarnished and actually scratched until she saw the new ones.

[h2owmn]

Ron, that's a nice looking towel rack! I think there's less room between the counter and doors in my 17, and also, opening any of the underneath doors means sliding the towels or holding them up. I do also have on order one of those "single mount spot with three swinging arms" doohickeys--I'll see if that will work in a nearby location.

[iamunique127]

While winterizing yesterday, I applied 303 Aerospace Protectant to the plastic bits around the trailer.

I read about the 303 here on the forums and knew the upper fridge vent was getting quite weathered but I figured "better late than never" so gave it and everything else a good coating and rub.

I'll be putting the cover on in a day or two but wanted to coat the plastics anyway.



Inspired by dfandrews in post
#1525 of this current thread, I also built a framework to protect my RV cover from the sharp edges of the solar panel.

I used 2" central vac tubing which was 1/3 the price of electrical-spec PVC. I was unable to find the 3-way brackets locally so I came up with a way to use two different 90º central vac joints.



There are bolts with nuts protruding up through the angle brackets holding on the solar panel. I drilled holes in the lower 90º joints to fit over the bolts and keep them from sliding. Then some zip ties did the rest.

[W3XE]

Brilliant!

[Buddy]

Finalizing a late season modification...
Installed a Seville mini-split A/C into my 2008 17B. Lost some storage as I had a really ugly black plastic box that was mounted behind the propane tanks. Replaced it with a smaller aluminum storage box. Earlier, I replaced my 6 volt golf car batteries which were mounted on the rear bumper with li-po batteries which are now inside. Those 2 battery box’s now store a surprising amount and easily replace the shortfall from my previous storage.
Rather than running a separate circuit for power, I installed an outdoor receptacle and just plug the mini-split into that. The inside unit covers up a few inches of the front window but it is still fully functional.
Did a few test runs with it, heats and cools the 17b nicely and is very quiet. Also tried it with a Honda eu2000i generator, no problem.

[Ian and Sue]

Originally Posted by Ron in BC

You're lucky that you can use one of those shelters.

Around here the building department says they're non-conforming and prohibited because they can't carry the snowload for this area.

Ron

No Building Dept here but it would be a waste of money not planning on snow loading here. We had over 4 ft in one storm last winter(overnight) and often get over a foot and then rain...some serious snow loadings!

[Mike G]

Not sure if I mentioned this yet, but my step was very bothersome to pull out... it liked to bind or something, and I'd have to wiggle it and yank on it 2-3 times with both hands... so in early summer I sprayed the steel brackets with a wax-based lubricant called Dupont Chain Saver. Now several months later I can still pull it out one-handed; it glides smoothly out and in.

[John in Santa Cruz]

Originally Posted by Mike G

Not sure if I mentioned this yet, but my step was very bothersome to pull out... it liked to bind or something, and I'd have to wiggle it and yank on it 2-3 times with both hands... so in early summer I sprayed the steel brackets with a wax-based lubricant called Dupont Chain Saver. Now several months later I can still pull it out one-handed; it glides smoothly out and in.

my step got caught on a rock or something, and is slightly bent, so it doesn't open at all.

solution?

[Mike G]

Originally Posted by John in Santa Cruz

my step got caught on a rock or something, and is slightly bent, so it doesn't open at all.

solution?

That's a totally different sort of step, so you probably need a totally different solution: maybe try to straighten it with a hammer!