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01-04-2021, 04:02 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Burlington Twp., New Jersey
Trailer: 2010 Escape 19
Posts: 7,146
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Boondocking water intake
Is anyone else tired of holding heavy containers of water or getting out and powering an external pump to fill the fresh water tank when boondocking? I've borrowed some ideas from Oliver's boondocking inlet with my own spin. The concept is a second high flow (4 gpm) Shurflo self-priming onboard pump connected to a stainless steel water inlet and outlet with an exterior rated power switch all mounted on the shell. When one wants to draw water from an external source to fill their fresh tank they simply connect a short hose to the intake and put the other end in their container. Another short hose is connected from the outlet and is put into the existing fresh water fill inlet. The other advantage of the second pump and coming outside to an outlet is that if the main onboard pump dies I could hook the new inlet up to the garden hose connection on my fresh tank drain and connect the new outlet to the existing city water connection. This would act as a redundant pressurized water system. Unlike the Oliver design this setup also eliminates the need to go inside the trailer to flip concealed valves and turn on the pump. Everything can be done right at the outside fill station. Easily winterized/sanitized. Sorry for the rudimentary sketch but you'll get the idea. Please let me know your thoughts on this system. If someone does something better I'm all ears. This is just a concept and I haven't bought any parts yet.
https://www.boatoutfitters.com/water...SABEgJuXvD_BwE
https://www.boatoutfitters.com/water-outlet
https://www.pentair.com/en-us/produc...flow-pump.html
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01-04-2021, 04:17 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Edmonton, Alberta
Trailer: 1979 Boler B1700
Posts: 14,935
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It's not the obvious solution, and often that's a good thing.
An alternative would be the completely plumbed-in system, but with an access door to reach the required valves and storage of the intake hose... but this should work well and be easier to build.
This seems like a functional and reasonable way to get to the objective. It is essentially what I carry for filling from jugs, but mounted in the trailer instead of carried in a storage compartment.
All I can suggest for improvement is using quick-connect hose fittings to make setting it up and packing it away as quick and easy as possible. Typical quick-connect garden hose fittings use male plugs on the tap and end devices with female couplers on both ends of the hoses; I find that nonsensical and re-arrange to put male plugs on anything receiving water and female couplers on all sources - that way a hose can be coiled up and connected to itself to stay clean inside in storage (and not dribble water into the storage compartment). I leave a plug on the RV's inlet (which would be more optimal with a recessed inlet; obviously a campsite faucet won't have a coupler so that has to be screwed on each time, but at least it's only one fitting that needs that.
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01-04-2021, 04:41 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2020
Location: Overbrook, Kansas
Trailer: 2021 E19 (Padawan)
Posts: 1,979
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I just carry a cheap small 12v pump and some cheap hose. We fill a small cooler we carry for extra food and day trip lunches. For me it’s quick, small, light and cheap. I also carry one of those rubber hose adapters for unthreaded faucets. Less than $15, but it doesn’t offer pressurized redundancy. We would have to use our water unpressurized until I got the pump fixed.
__________________
Randy & Barb
1998 C 2500 (Cruncher) and 2021 Ranger (Yoda)
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01-04-2021, 04:54 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Burlington Twp., New Jersey
Trailer: 2010 Escape 19
Posts: 7,146
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian B-P
An alternative would be the completely plumbed-in system, but with an access door to reach the required valves and storage of the intake hose... but this should work well and be easier to build.
This seems like a functional and reasonable way to get to the objective. It is essentially what I carry for filling from jugs, but mounted in the trailer instead of carried in a storage compartment.
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Brian: Thanks for the critique. I thought about doing all the appropriate plumbing inside and bringing it to an access door but I don't have room for a reasonably sized door at the rear drivers side and I really don't want to try to tee into the large diameter corrugated fresh water tank fill line. I really like that this design also provides a completely redundant system if the main pump fails - with the ability to draw from an external container or the fresh tank.
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01-04-2021, 05:08 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Edmonton, Alberta
Trailer: 1979 Boler B1700
Posts: 14,935
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rubicon327
I thought about doing all the appropriate plumbing inside and bringing it to an access door but I don't have room for a reasonably sized door at the rear drivers side and I really don't want to try to tee into the large diameter corrugated fresh water tank fill line.
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I wouldn't want to do that tee, either... but the fresh water tank can be filled through the pump suction line from the city water inlet (or pump outlet... effectively the same point in the system) with a shutoff valve.
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01-04-2021, 06:07 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Kelowna, British Columbia
Trailer: 2018 Escape 19
Posts: 2,720
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On my last trailer I had a stick on hook that I could attach the ring of a funnel to so that I could use both hands to fill the tank from a collapsible container.
What I have done on Eggscape may not solve all your requirements, however it does meet most of mine. I know you saw the mod a few years ago as you committed on it. I will provide a link to it again if a few new to Escape trailers wish to read in full what I have done.
I always like when a mod I do can be used for more than one thing. In this case by installing an inexpensive winterizing T value at the bottom of the fresh water tank, I can pump antifreeze throughout all the supply tubing right from the source. It also allows me to bypass the water tank and draw directly from a water container on the ground. This may be helpful if you run out of water or your tank becomes faulty due to a leak or a bad distasteful growth inside while you are on the road.
Good luck with your mod Dave and on a side note...if you sent me your email like you talked about a few days ago, I have not received it yet.
https://www.escapeforum.org/forums/f...tml#post266446
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01-04-2021, 06:50 PM
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#7
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Auburn, California
Trailer: Was 2011 17B, now Bigfoot 21
Posts: 61
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I, too, was tired of messing with heavy containers when transferring water when boondocking. My solution to this problem is a bit different. My trailer was equipped with a 3-way valve with a hose connected to one port so that I could suck antifreeze to winterize. I added another 3 way valve near it so that I could change the source and destination of the water running in the trailer using the existing pump. For example, depending on the position of the 2 valves, I can transfer water:
-from the fresh water tank to the trailer appliances (normal use)
-from the 'antifreeze' hose to the trailer appliances (winterizing)
-from the 'antifreeze' hose to the fresh water tank (adding water to FW tank via spare container)
Attached is my diagram of how I plumbed it where 'tank' is FW tank and 'hose' is the 'antifreeze' hose. The system works but the pump cycles on and off as it's pumping water from the extra container of water to the FW tank. And I do have to carry the spare water into the trailer.
Ben
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01-04-2021, 07:11 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Burlington Twp., New Jersey
Trailer: 2010 Escape 19
Posts: 7,146
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Quote:
Originally Posted by btroxell
I, too, was tired of messing with heavy containers when transferring water when boondocking. My solution to this problem is a bit different. My trailer was equipped with a 3-way valve with a hose connected to one port so that I could suck antifreeze to winterize. I added another 3 way valve near it so that I could change the source and destination of the water running in the trailer using the existing pump. For example, depending on the position of the 2 valves, I can transfer water:
-from the fresh water tank to the trailer appliances (normal use)
-from the 'antifreeze' hose to the trailer appliances (winterizing)
-from the 'antifreeze' hose to the fresh water tank (adding water to FW tank via spare container)
Attached is my diagram of how I plumbed it where 'tank' is FW tank and 'hose' is the 'antifreeze' hose. The system works but the pump cycles on and off as it's pumping water from the extra container of water to the FW tank. And I do have to carry the spare water into the trailer.
Ben
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Nice work. If I interpret correctly you have the same capabilities as the Oliver system. The only difference being their rear inlet outside is your “winterizing” intake line inside. So when you are filling your tank you are backfeeding the pump suction line (that attaches to the side of the tank near the bottom) and seen in Eggscape’s photo above?
My only real reservation with this design is the room to access the valves. I have an underbed storage drawer that makes anything beyond grabbing the winterizing hose and just being able reach in to bypass the water heater a real challenge. Plus I rather not bring the water containers inside.
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01-04-2021, 07:34 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Baytown, Texas
Trailer: 2017 21' Escape - upgraded version
Posts: 2,697
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rubicon327
Nice work. If I interpret correctly you have the same capabilities as the Oliver system. The only difference being their rear inlet outside is your “winterizing” intake line inside. So when you are filling your tank you are backfeeding the pump suction line (that attaches to the side of the tank near the bottom) and seen in Eggscape’s photo above?
My only real reservation with this design is the room to access the valves. I have an underbed storage drawer that makes anything beyond grabbing the winterizing hose and just being able reach in to bypass the water heater a real challenge. Plus I rather not bring the water containers inside.
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It would be expensive - but two of these with an external switch?
https://www.amazon.com/HSH-Flo-24VAC...9810415&sr=8-3
__________________
Normal people believe that if it ain't broke, don't fix it.
Engineers believe in fixing it so that it never breaks.
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01-04-2021, 08:03 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Burlington Twp., New Jersey
Trailer: 2010 Escape 19
Posts: 7,146
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tdf-texas
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That’s an interesting idea. Essentially extending the existing winterizing line to an inlet on the exterior and adding two motorized valves. Trouble I see is if both valves flip based on a signal from a single switch you would have normal operation (from tank to trailer plumbing) or tank fill mode (from inlet to fresh water tank) but would not have the third mode to winterize (from inlet to trailer). Of course this could be done with two switches but positions would need to be carefully managed to avoid antifreeze in the freshwater tank.
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01-04-2021, 08:16 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2019
Location: Las Vegas, Nevada
Trailer: 21' Escape in production 12/05/19
Posts: 132
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We bought a pump fro Walmart for $10. It runs on 2 D batteries.
__________________
"It's all Perfect, it's all Divine". "Perceived sanity is highly overrated".
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01-04-2021, 08:39 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Burlington Twp., New Jersey
Trailer: 2010 Escape 19
Posts: 7,146
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gori
We bought a pump fro Walmart for $10. It runs on 2 D batteries.
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Is it this one?
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Turbo-Ele...SABEgLbZfD_BwE
If so it gets some pretty poor reviews. I personally don’t want to carry around something so cheap and likely to break or to fuss with throw away batteries when I have an onboard 12V battery bank to leverage. As the D batteries start to die you can expect reduced flow. That all said I hope it works well for you. Hard to go wrong for only $10 I guess.
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01-04-2021, 09:12 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Nanaimo Vancouver Island, British Columbia
Trailer: 2015 17b "Shelly"
Posts: 459
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I find simple solutions the work the best
__________________
Like a lot of fellows, I have a furniture problem. My chest has fallen into my drawers
"Billy Casper"
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01-04-2021, 11:08 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Phoenix, Arizona
Trailer: 2015 Escape 19 "Seventy Degrees"
Posts: 3,495
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Was going to do electric pump setup in bed of truck to transfer water, but found an rv hand pump siphon at Walmart for about $10. Thing works so well I abandoned the other ideas.
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01-04-2021, 11:14 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: East Dover, Vermont
Trailer: 2014 Escape 5.0 TA!
Posts: 678
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rubicon327
Is anyone else tired of holding heavy containers of water or getting out and powering an external pump to fill the fresh water tank when boondocking? I've borrowed some ideas from Oliver's boondocking inlet with my own spin. The concept is a second high flow (4 gpm) Shurflo self-priming onboard pump connected to a stainless steel water inlet and outlet with an exterior rated power switch all mounted on the shell. When one wants to draw water from an external source to fill their fresh tank they simply connect a short hose to the intake and put the other end in their container. Another short hose is connected from the outlet and is put into the existing fresh water fill inlet. The other advantage of the second pump and coming outside to an outlet is that if the main onboard pump dies I could hook the new inlet up to the garden hose connection on my fresh tank drain and connect the new outlet to the existing city water connection. This would act as a redundant pressurized water system. Unlike the Oliver design this setup also eliminates the need to go inside the trailer to flip concealed valves and turn on the pump. Everything can be done right at the outside fill station. Easily winterized/sanitized. Sorry for the rudimentary sketch but you'll get the idea. Please let me know your thoughts on this system. If someone does something better I'm all ears. This is just a concept and I haven't bought any parts yet.
https://www.boatoutfitters.com/water...SABEgJuXvD_BwE
https://www.boatoutfitters.com/water-outlet
https://www.pentair.com/en-us/produc...flow-pump.html
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I went a slightly different route. I have a 30 gal water tank in the back of my truck(any size would work). I have it plumbed into a shurflow pump and have a hose bibb plumbed in. The pump is hooked up to an old deep cycle battery(it doesn't take much juice) with a simple toggle switch to turn it on or off. I can go get water in the truck and then pump it into the camper tank. In an emergency I have shut off a broken pump in the trailer and used the city water inlet and pressurized the camper with the pump in the truck. This also gives me running water in the truck for washing up after dirty work, cleaning up dirty kids, etc.
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01-05-2021, 10:25 AM
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#16
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Burlington Twp., New Jersey
Trailer: 2010 Escape 19
Posts: 7,146
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sunrisetrucker
I find simple solutions the work the best
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Smart. With the rear Stowaway box we have mounted behind and slightly above the tire it would make a decent platform for a water container to sit if it is the right size and can sit against the trailer wall and on the rear part of the box without sliding off.
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01-05-2021, 10:46 AM
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#17
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Phoenix, Arizona
Trailer: 2015 Escape 19 "Seventy Degrees"
Posts: 3,495
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If ur boondocking most of the time there is room around the trailer. I just pull the truck alongside the DS, lower the tailgate, hook up the siphon and go. No lifting 40lbs of water.
Ian’s system is exactly what I originally wanted. Very cool setup.
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01-05-2021, 01:11 PM
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#18
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Ventura County, California
Trailer: 2013 19 Escape
Posts: 7,204
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rubicon327
Is anyone else tired of holding heavy containers of water or getting out and powering an external pump to fill the fresh water tank when boondocking? I've borrowed some ideas from Oliver's boondocking inlet with my own spin. The concept is a second high flow (4 gpm) Shurflo self-priming onboard pump connected to a stainless steel water inlet and outlet with an exterior rated power switch all mounted on the shell. When one wants to draw water from an external source to fill their fresh tank they simply connect a short hose to the intake and put the other end in their container. Another short hose is connected from the outlet and is put into the existing fresh water fill inlet. The other advantage of the second pump and coming outside to an outlet is that if the main onboard pump dies I could hook the new inlet up to the garden hose connection on my fresh tank drain and connect the new outlet to the existing city water connection. This would act as a redundant pressurized water system. Unlike the Oliver design this setup also eliminates the need to go inside the trailer to flip concealed valves and turn on the pump. Everything can be done right at the outside fill station. Easily winterized/sanitized. Sorry for the rudimentary sketch but you'll get the idea. Please let me know your thoughts on this system. If someone does something better I'm all ears. This is just a concept and I haven't bought any parts yet.
https://www.boatoutfitters.com/water...SABEgJuXvD_BwE
https://www.boatoutfitters.com/water-outlet
https://www.pentair.com/en-us/produc...flow-pump.html
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One of the reasons I liked Oliver ! Actually saw this action ! Pat
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01-05-2021, 01:42 PM
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#19
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Felton, California
Trailer: 2018 21' ; 2014 19' (Sold)
Posts: 1,309
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__________________
Jan
We do not remember days, we remember moments.
- Cesare Pavese
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01-05-2021, 02:18 PM
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#20
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Burlington Twp., New Jersey
Trailer: 2010 Escape 19
Posts: 7,146
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Quote:
Originally Posted by btroxell
The system works but the pump cycles on and off as it's pumping water from the extra container of water to the FW tank.
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I was worried about this same thing, but then realized the pump should not turn off until it reaches the cut-out pressure (nominally 55 PSI) which shouldn't happen when filling a vented tank. Maybe you need to turn your pump pressure setting up?
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