Dump Valve mod

[tractors1]

Originally Posted by Starbrightsteve

I'm finding this thread development to be curiously amazing! It seems to be suggesting that someone should tell ETI that they are doing something wrong!!!! Ever since I joined the forum and ordered a trailer, I have gotten the feeling from reading the responses and comments that this was something that is just not done. ETI can do no wrong!
I've always been amazed and impressed when folks say "I talked to Reace and blah, blah". How does this happen? I feel lucky if I get a return call from Sarah.

I never try to talk to ETI for reasons of aforementioned business. I have always emailed questions and requests, particularly those directed at Reace, and have always had a response in a few days from ETI. Unless Tammy is tending the phone, I assume I will talk to a receptionist/phone person who has little or no authority to respond to anything but general questions. He/she would then write down your issue and forward it to the correct person at ETI, which in my opinion a big waste of time on both ends just trying to explain the question and the answer between 2-4 people.

[Iowa Dave]

My max fan did not work right. I was at Osoyoos and Reace came walking by. I hailed him over and explained my problem. He asked me if I ever read the book. I said no. He said it works like this and gave me a very short 2 minute lesson. Fan works great now. If everybody just got one question and a 2 minute lesson, they would probably be better off. Reace could do about 25 an hour with a short beer break. That would still take 6 hours at the rally. So, help each other on the forum, don't be snarky, smarmy, or needy, and if you can't be with the one you love, love the one you're with.
Dave

[gbaglo]

Yup. Reace stopped in at my site and when I mentioned having trouble getting the water heater to light he headed back to his truck for needle nose pliers. Shortly later he returned, quickly adjusted the igniter and I was back in business.

[rbryan4]

Not to mention the time he stopped by during the Bluebonnet rally last year and asked me if I'd ever got in touch with Dometic about the beeping fridge issues. I mentioned I hadn't got the chance yet. Later my wife told me he went to the 5.0 TA he'd brought, pulled out the fridge light assembly, and installed it in our fridge.

[Donna D.]

One year, when Reace and Tammy came to the Oregon Gathering, they brought a toilet and were going to swap out one in an Escape someone was having issues with. The next year they brought a bathroom door, because someone, who was also attending, had a warped door. Even when they camp, they work!

[cpaharley2008]

Yes, while we all are imbibing and socializing at the rallies, Reace is working, I have only seen him relaxing a few times, otherwise he is working hard....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VcXg8RrylII

[CoolCampingKid]

Originally Posted by Jim Bennett

Just for you Donna, here is a photo of my virgin plumbing.

Hey Jim do you know if you can remove the valves on the 5.0ta without cutting the ABS pipes? I need to get access and would prefer not to do any cutting. Thanks Bill

[Jim Bennett]

Originally Posted by CoolCampingKid

Hey Jim do you know if you can remove the valves on the 5.0ta without cutting the ABS pipes? I need to get access and would prefer not to do any cutting. Thanks Bill

I am not certain Bill, as I have not looked into doing this. I would imagine you could at least disassemble the valve, as there are replacement parts available.

[rbryan4]

Bill, if your talking about the black and grey tank pull valves, yes, they can be removed without cutting. That's what the bolts are for. Designed to be replaced if they should fail.

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[Zardoz]

My arthritic knees really appreciate the new and improved dump valve configuration. However, when I was transfering all our gear from our previous 19 into our new 5.0, I discovered that the access door to the sewer hose storage tube was recessed about 18" under the trailer. Thankful for that dense, cell foam mat I found . Oh well, a length of 6" square PVC fence post and a couple of end caps will take care of that.

[CoolCampingKid]

Originally Posted by rbryan4

Bill, if your talking about the black and grey tank pull valves, yes, they can be removed without cutting. That's what the bolts are for. Designed to be replaced if they should fail.

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Well Bryan, I removed all the screws and the valve just rotates.... there is a lip that seems to be keeping it lined up but won't allow me to remove any part of it. I will mess with it today and report back. Has anyone taken these apart on one that has both valves lined up like in the photo Jim posted? Thanks for the help. Bill

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by CoolCampingKid

Well Bryan, I removed all the screws and the valve just rotates.... there is a lip that seems to be keeping it lined up but won't allow me to remove any part of it. I will mess with it today and report back. Has anyone taken these apart on one that has both valves lined up like in the photo Jim posted? Thanks for the help. Bill

I have not worked on one exactly like Jim posted, but there is typically a small lip on the adjoining faces with seals that keep the valve in place. The assembly needs to be spread apart a bit to remove the valve.

[rbryan4]

Originally Posted by rubicon327

I have not worked on one exactly like Jim posted, but there is typically a small lip on the adjoining faces with seals that keep the valve in place. The assembly needs to be spread apart a bit to remove the valve.

That's correct. The lip aligns them on the pipe. Just spread it a bit (carefully and not too much so you don't crack anything) and you can then pull the valve assembly out. Same for installing a new one.

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[CoolCampingKid]

Originally Posted by Jim Bennett

I am not certain Bill, as I have not looked into doing this. I would imagine you could at least disassemble the valve, as there are replacement parts available.

Hey Jim, it turns out that the fitting that came with the tank is loose and needs to be replaced and welded in. I found a guy who can do the work but now I must remove the gray water tank. Is there a chance you could send some pictures of where the straps are located? Oh you are asking why? I forgot to tell you this unit has the sprayed on insulation underneath and don't want to remove ALL the foam. Are there any other things that are holding the tank in place?

[padlin]

Originally Posted by CoolCampingKid

Hey Jim, it turns out that the fitting that came with the tank is loose and needs to be replaced and welded in. I found a guy who can do the work but now I must remove the gray water tank. Is there a chance you could send some pictures of where the straps are located? Oh you are asking why? I forgot to tell you this unit has the sprayed on insulation underneath and don't want to remove ALL the foam. Are there any other things that are holding the tank in place?

Here's a few shots, pre foam, of my 2014 that may help.

Might be worth considering installing Horst probes on the gray tank at the time if you don't have them and your gauges are useless like mine.

[CoolCampingKid]

Thank you Bob! It did help. I am trying to figure out if there is just the four wires (sensors) two straps and one gray water inlet. Can anyone confirm this? I am going to have to remove a bunch of foam to get this tank out. I am hoping to be surgical about it. Any help would be appreciated. Bill with a leaking gray water tank.

[Chapitre]

Does anyone know if the mod that Ron did would work on my 5TA- 2014? My trailer is currently at a trailer service place and is saying he doesn't think it will work- more the grey valve elbows/bends. I have the same valve. Is the 19 that different - grey tank farther away?

[Ron in BC]

My experience with these sorts of things is; there's usually always a solution. Sometimes you just have to be a bit creative or sometimes just take some bits and pieces, hold them up and figure out a way to make it work.

Unfortunately sometimes folks in a service situation just like jobs that are basic and routine. If the job requires some problem solving etc. it's easier just to tell the customer it can't be done.

I'd say, wait until you have the trailer at hand and post some photos. I'm betting there is a way to end up with a front pull dump valve. It's one mod that keeps giving me payback. I truly hated that reach under and pull sideways situation.

Ron

[rubicon327]

The one minor disadvantage of this mod that I see is that you eliminate the straight shot into the gray tank that existed (at least on older trailers). The straight shot allows water from a hose to be squirted up with high pressure into the empty tank mimicking the tornado type wash systems. I did this the other day and a bunch more crude came out after a regular draining of the tank. This may be no big deal to some, but may be important to those wishing to keep their tanks as clean as possible.

[Ron in BC]

Originally Posted by rubicon327

This may be no big deal to some, but may be important to those wishing to keep their tanks as clean as possible.

Interesting point. I've never felt the need to rinse out the grey tank that way. I did just stick a hose in to test that situation and while I could get the hose started down the pipe aways it would be more trouble than it's worth.

Not all is lost though. There's a quick and easy solution for anyone wanting to do this mod. Simply use a tee in place of the 90* elbow. Put a removable cap on the end pointing towards the exterior. That would allow a hose to be pushed into the tank.

Ron