Dump Valve mod

[sclifrickson]

Or maybe a flexible tank wand? Valterra A01-0187VP Flexible Tank Wand https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BGHYE8..._Wrs8zbZTD659V

[Ron in BC]

That would probably work. But for someone that wants to do the mod but hasn't yet started it would be simpler and cheaper just to put a sanitary tee in. They'd still have the nice 90* radius with a clean out plug.

Ron

[Chapitre]

Well, the guy who actually works on the trailers had a look and decided the mod could be done, so now we have the two valve pulls in front. He was on this forum and said ETI shifted the lo cation of the outlet from the grey tank to line up with current new valve setup. So, the location on the 2014 is slightly different than the current model TA. He said when the grey tank is full it comes out quickly, but towards the end it may be a little slower than before- he said it may not be a whole lot different than the original as that was off to the side.
Even if it is a little slower it will be better than having got kneel down and get it opened in that awkward position especially at "dump" sites.
Really glad about this I agree, the original was a real pain, I guess ETI realized it fairly quickly and changed them over.
Thanks again for the help.

[Chapitre]

Now that I have new valves- How do you "maintain" them and the toilet valve?

[Ron in BC]

Originally Posted by Chapitre

He said when the grey tank is full it comes out quickly, but towards the end it may be a little slower than before- he said it may not be a whole lot different than the original as that was off to the side.

Glad it worked out for you. As you say, the original location was a real pain.

It's doubtful the speed of the tank draining will change. The tank drains more slowly as it empties because the outlet is on the side of the tank (X), not the bottom. Once the fluid level reaches the outlet the flow rate starts decreasing. When it reaches the center of the pipe it really starts slowing down and the last bit takes a lot longer.

That's just the way it is. A drain on the bottom would be quicker but vulnerable to damage. I'm always happy to see a dump site that slopes towards the dump side. Drains much quicker.

Ron

[float5]

Originally Posted by Ron in BC

Glad it worked out for you. As you say, the original location was a real pain.

It's doubtful the speed of the tank draining will change. The tank drains more slowly as it empties because the outlet is on the side of the tank (X), not the bottom. Once the fluid level reaches the outlet the flow rate starts decreasing. When it reaches the center of the pipe it really starts slowing down and the last bit takes a lot longer.

That's just the way it is. A drain on the bottom would be quicker but vulnerable to damage. I'm always happy to see a dump site that slopes towards the dump side. Drains much quicker.

Ron

You can always use blocks on the other side but I am too lazy to do that at a dump. I think we once did it.

[Ron in BC]

Originally Posted by float5

You can always use blocks on the other side but I am too lazy to do that at a dump. I think we once did it.

Yah, me too. But I'm always happy to see a dump site that slopes the "right" way. Sometimes I get a bit impatient waiting for the flow to entirely stop. Then it's "good enough".

Ron

[ReagentGrade]

As far as I'm concerned, unless I'm winterizing, there is no reason to drain the tanks completely. If they are really empty, I have to add water. I don't like dry tanks because gunk dries on the sensors.
When the flow diminishes, I'm done.

[rbryan4]

Originally Posted by ReagentGrade

As far as I'm concerned, unless I'm winterizing, there is no reason to drain the tanks completely. If they are really empty, I have to add water. I don't like dry tanks because gunk dries on the sensors.
When the flow diminishes, I'm done.

Storing the trailer with liquids in the tanks means they'd better have a little chemical or you'll create some unique smells.

I'm also thinking the only way to keep a sensor wet is to keep the tank levels up. Your slow trickle means they're basically empty, and the sensors will dry anyway.

[ReagentGrade]

Robert, you're totally correct. My comment about the sensors is is bit off. And when I say "done" I'm assuming I'm still on a trip. If it's the last dump before home, I let it drain longer. Chemicals are definitely called for (I prefer enzyme treatments).
My point is only that is not necessary to drain every last drop every time.
Rich

[float5]

Originally Posted by ReagentGrade

As far as I'm concerned, unless I'm winterizing, there is no reason to drain the tanks completely. If they are really empty, I have to add water. I don't like dry tanks because gunk dries on the sensors.
When the flow diminishes, I'm done.

Right. The only time we are trying to get the tanks really empty is for winterizing. Then anti-freeze will go in (not the fresh.). Need something in the tanks at all times.

[Chapitre]

Originally Posted by Chapitre

Now that I have new valves- How do you "maintain" them and the toilet valve?

Anyone have any thoughts/ protocol on this?

[elongest]

You tube is your friend. https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q...2A&FORM=VRDGAR

[Patandlinda]

Originally Posted by rubicon327

The one minor disadvantage of this mod that I see is that you eliminate the straight shot into the gray tank that existed (at least on older trailers). The straight shot allows water from a hose to be squirted up with high pressure into the empty tank mimicking the tornado type wash systems. I did this the other day and a bunch more crude came out after a regular draining of the tank. This may be no big deal to some, but may be important to those wishing to keep their tanks as clean as possible.

Dave hope this the right thread . HELP . On our grey valve one of the little ends on the bottom where one of the screws go in has broken off . It would be simpler if it was on the side after the gate . No the screw tab broken is behind the gate valve . If I open the valve it leaks in that corner . If the valve gate is closed it doesn't seem to leak . What is the easiest and best way to fix this . Because the tab is broken the screw on the bottom corner can't pull the seal very well in the corner . I have removed some of the added foam but would need to remove more if I have to start removing the valve body . Pat

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by Patandlinda

Dave hope this the right thread . HELP . On our grey valve one of the little ends on the bottom where one of the screws go in has broken off . It would be simpler if it was on the side after the gate . No the screw tab broken is behind the gate valve . If I open the valve it leaks in that corner . If the valve gate is closed it doesn't seem to leak . What is the easiest and best way to fix this . Because the tab is broken the screw on the bottom corner can't pull the seal very well in the corner . I have removed some of the added foam but would need to remove more if I have to start removing the valve body . Pat

Pat: Do you have a photo? I'm no expert with these fittings but maybe others can jump in too. Just some food for thought since it is only gray water and if only a drip/slow leak when open and not leaking when closed you could just leave it alone. Black water would becanother story.

[Patandlinda]

Originally Posted by rubicon327

Pat: Do you have a photo? I'm no expert with these fittings but maybe others can jump in too. Just some food for thought since it is only gray water and if only a drip/slow leak when open and not leaking when closed you could just leave it alone. Black water would becanother story.

Dave here are a couple . the bottom bolts are loose because I tried to use abs cement last night to reattach tab. I haven't tried it out yet to see if it will hold . Pat

[padlin]

I had the same on the black dump gate, here's what I wrote at the time.

http://www.escapeforum.org/forums/f9...nge-10164.html

Post 24 is where I found something that would work.

I reconnected with a rubber pipe connector, had to trim it down a bit as it was too long. Between that and the choice of hub genders it went back fairly easy.

[elongest]

I had the same problem with the grey water tank slip/flange fitting. I cleaned up the broken ear and re glued it with ABS cement. I also replaced the valve because the seals were binding on the gate valve. When reinstalling I put stainless flat washers on the back side of the flange to help spread the load. No leaks for me since the repair.
The problem is the slip flange fittings that Escapes uses, they are very weak where the screws go through the flange to attach the valve. I wish Escape used Valterra fittings which the flange ears are stronger and about twice as thick.
Eddie

[Patandlinda]

Originally Posted by padlin

I had the same on the black dump gate, here's what I wrote at the time.

http://www.escapeforum.org/forums/f9...nge-10164.html

Post 24 is where I found something that would work.

I reconnected with a rubber pipe connector, had to trim it down a bit as it was too long. Between that and the choice of hub genders it went back fairly easy.

Thanks Bob . I retigtened up the bottom bolts and it still leaks . Just to be sure I added water to black tank and opened valve , no leak there . The grey only leaks when I open the gate valve . When I close it , it stops . Probably the best fix is to cut the pipe there and replace the flange that you bolt into . Pat

[Patandlinda]

Originally Posted by elongest

I had the same problem with the grey water tank slip/flange fitting. I cleaned up the broken ear and re glued it with ABS cement. I also replaced the valve because the seals were binding on the gate valve. When reinstalling I put stainless flat washers on the back side of the flange to help spread the load. No leaks for me since the repair.
The problem is the slip flange fittings that Escapes uses, they are very weak where the screws go through the flange to attach the valve. I wish Escape used Valterra fittings which the flange ears are stronger and about twice as thick.
Eddie

Yup I tried to reglue the ear with abs cement . And I have never had this issue before I think the abs is not very good . When the trailer was a couple months old the ears on the cap broke off . I replaced with a Valterra cap and it's been about 4 years now with the Valterra cap. Maybe I should just cut off and replace all this Abs . Because I worry about the piece the cap goes on too. Good idea with the stainless washers too. Thankyou . Pat