2020 Sierra vs. 5.0TA

[sherminator]

Originally Posted by Centex

A possibility, but I'm almost certain you'll find that all of the available OE wheel size / tire profile combinations are within a very small fraction of an inch of each other in terms of overall diameter / rolling diameter which bears on 'net bed height'.

Any meaningful change (reduction) in wheel/tire overall diameter has implications on not only speedo / odometer calibration but also ground-clearance and effective overall gearing, the latter not only impacting mileage but also potentially transmission shifting behavior. Maybe there's an aftermarket PCM reprogramming 'solution' for that, Caveat Emptor.

The OP is looking to purchase a truck. What I am saying is to look to buy a truck with the smallest tire size available in order to minimize height issues. If buying a used truck, there might be a possibility to change to smaller tires - people often put larger tires on trucks on their 2nd set.

The difference between 255/70R17 tires and 275/70R18 tires (both common truck sizes) is 2" in diameter, which should translate to close to an inch in ride height. I did say that any diameter change would have to be programmed into the truck's computer. There are aftermarket ways to do that, or dealers can do it. The ground clearance would decrease by the same "close to an inch".

[Perry Butler]

Originally Posted by PM15283

Box is unloaded for 58" measurement. The Red Plastic covered receiver was turned from rearward to forward to give more clearance for the tailgate..

Sorry if I missed this correction in another post.

When you turned your "Red Plastic covered receiver" from rearward to forward you reduced the clearance to your sidewalls. This extra clearance is the main reason the receiver is in the rearward position.

Do you have airbags? Our 2015 F150 squatted a mere 1 3/8" and our current 2019 F150 squats only 1 1/8". Trucks are made to carry loads and have some squat, so unless you have a massive amount of squat (over 2" ?) you don't need airbags. That will also help with your clearance.

The first think I'd do is put the Red Plastic receiver back where it belongs.

Enjoy,

Perry

[Perry Butler]

Originally Posted by CWood

I too had the problem of the back of the hitch scrapping the sides of my truck. I have the pullright sliding hitch. I ended up putting the lifts on the trailer axles as well as adding 2 4x6” 1/4” thick steel tubes under the rails to raise the entire hitch up. Then bolting to the truck frame.

If I'm reading this correctly that would be a Rube Goldberg approach.

Enjoy,

Perry

[PM15283]

Perry,

Think I'll go with Rube. The inconvenience of being unable to open the tailgate is a big deal. (I'm too old to scramble over the side!) Neighbor is supplying two 2 X 6 steel tubes for under the Andersen and I bought a 4.5 inch hold-down bolt. That will give me tailgate clearance and sidewall clearance. Am checking the trailer level today.

[Perry Butler]

Originally Posted by PM15283

The inconvenience of being unable to open the tailgate is a big deal. (I'm too old to scramble over the side!)

I question why you can't open the tailgate. Did someone incorrectly install your rails? How far are the rails from the inside of the tailgate when the tailgate is up?

Enjoy,

Perry

[PM15283]

Perry -
The tailgate is taller than the distance to the two (black) frame rails. This is the Pro Tailgate, GMC Sierra SLT.

[Perry Butler]

Originally Posted by PM15283

Perry -
The tailgate is taller than the distance to the two (black) frame rails. This is the Pro Tailgate, GMC Sierra SLT.

More specifically, what is the distance in inches from the center of the rails to the tailgate?

Enjoy,

Perry

[PM15283]

Perry - Where exactly on the tailgate do I measure? There is plenty of distance now.

[Perry Butler]

Originally Posted by PM15283

Perry - Where exactly on the tailgate do I measure? There is plenty of distance now.

The tailgate should be up. Measure on the floor from the center of the rear rail (the slots your Andersen goes into) to the tailgate.

Enjoy,

Perry

[PM15283]

If I understand what you are asking, the distance from the back of the box the four legs are welded into is 26 1/2 inches.

[Perry Butler]

PM15283 and I have talked on the phone and have reached the conclusion that his turnover ball was installed too far forward. He said it's slightly in front of the axle. How much "slightly" is I don't know, but obviously enough to cause the problems.

I installed the rails in my 2015 F150 spot-on according to the video from eTrailer. If I had my truck a slight angle to the 5.0, my tailgate would hit the camper.

When I had the rails installed in our new 2019 F150 last fall, I asked they be installed 1" closer to the tailgate. They installed the rails exactly 1" closer to the tailgate and I can have my truck at a decent angle before my tailgate hits. I wouldn't go any closer than 1" to the tailgate because it will hit the tailgate going in and out of a creek wash. Besides, I can buy a new tailgate cheaper than new sides on the pickup box.

Enjoy,

Perry

[Centex]

Originally Posted by Perryb67

PM15283 and I have talked on the phone and have reached the conclusion that his turnover ball was installed too far forward. He said it's slightly in front of the axle. How much "slightly" is I don't know, but obviously enough to cause the problems.

All just FYI, and all specific to the "B&W Turnoverball" brand under-bed assembly (I've no idea if that's what PM15283 actually has) ....

1. This is available, which effectively moves the centerline of the B&W Turnoverball (fits ONLY that brand underbed assembly) 4" to the rear: E-trailer link - 4-inch offset for B&W Turnoverball

Note I do not know if there is sufficient clearance under the Andersen Ultimate Connection 2 Base to allow use of this 'offset adaptor' - that would need to be verified!



2. The exact location of the B&W Turnoverball is dictated by the vehicle-specific no-drill underbed mount they offer for each application (B&W does not offer a 'generic / universal' kit for this hitch). IMO it's extremely unlikely that a B&W Turnoverball installation or the location is 'wrong' / "too far forward", the exact ball location just varies slightly depending on the details of different truck model applications and their underbed fitment requirements.

Again just FYI here's the instructions for the B&W Turnoverball for 2019-2020 Chevrolet/GMC 1500 pickups. Step 11 on page 3/7 of these instructions shows the location of the ball measured from the back-edge of the bed for all bed lengths: Turnoverball Gooseneck Hitch Installation Instructions - model 1019

Here's the same for the 2020 Chevrolet/GMC 2500/3500 pickups - note in Step 5 page 2/6 the ball centerline location is slightly different from that in the 1500 installation: Turnoverball Gooseneck Hitch Installation Instructions - model 1020

3. Note that the Andersen Ultimate Connection 2 Gooseneck Base locates the Andersen Ball 5.375" to the rear of whatever gooseneck ball on which it is mounted. So, subtract 5.375" from the dimensions shown in the applicable above-linked B&W instructions to determine the location of the Anderson Ultimate Ball Centerline relative to the back-edge of the truck bed.

Not sure if any of that helps, just hoping to clarify things relating to the brand-name "B&W Turnoverball" if that's what is in-play in this case (recognizing that though "Turnoverball" is a B&W trademark, some folks use the term generically in reference to other brands).

[UncleTim]

1 AA_bw1257 Bw Underbed system Toy Tundra
That is the part number for my turnoverball. Nice job on describing it. Mine is below the chain attachment and under some foam dampening material. You can't even see it.

I would like to thank TradeMasters in Chilliwack again for sharing this information with me. I had to have the work done down here.

Works great!

[SkipperClyde]

I believe you simply need to turn you Anderson around like you had it with your old truck. Then you will have to get out and raise the tailgate before final backing under the hitch. That's what I have to do.

[PM15283]

Originally Posted by SkipperClyde

I believe you simply need to turn you Anderson around like you had it with your old truck. Then you will have to get out and raise the tailgate before final backing under the hitch. That's what I have to do.

The tailgate is not the issue. (Sierra Pro Tailgate)

The trailer comes in contact with the top of the fender on sharp turns. If I raise the hitch ball the trailer is nose high. Lowering the truck or raising the body of the trailer are both very expensive mods. The cheap answer is "Don't make sharp turns!"

[SkipperClyde]

If it is making contact with the pin box, then moving the trailer forward will solve your problem

[PM15283]

Originally Posted by SkipperClyde

If it is making contact with the pin box, then moving the trailer forward will solve your problem

Then I'm back to not being able to open the tailgate. If I need something out of the truck box I have to disconnect the trailer....

[Chotch]

Originally Posted by PM15283

Then I'm back to not being able to open the tailgate. If I need something out of the truck box I have to disconnect the trailer....

🤔 round peg in square hole.....
You can make it work but it ain’t pretty...

[escape artist]

Originally Posted by Chotch

🤔 round peg in square hole.....
You can make it work but it ain’t pretty...

Hi: Chotch... I guess I'm lucky to be able to fit a "Round peg in a square hole". I'm able to back the Ram into the 5.0TA and leave the tailgate down. I have had to replace one of the bed rail vinyl covers due to a gouge from the pin box. Jack knifed with the trailer up on the driveway and the truck down in the gutter. Guess I'm not as good as I thought I was. Alf
escape artist N.S. of Lake Erie

[Centex]

I can't shake the feeling that there's some miscommunication going on with regard to PM15283's clearance issue(s) and/or setup.

Maybe there really is something unique with this particular pickup / tailgate, but it's obvious other 5.0 owners are having trouble visualizing / understanding / 'accepting' if that's the case?

Pics from PM15283 would be worth 1000 words, to communicate the situation and aide other owners in offering applicable suggestions, IMO.

• Tailgate down, truck backed to almost touching trailer, showing from front of trailer to hitch in the bed; would reveal how far the trailer coupler is from the in-bed hitch-ball (would also show coupler orientation and give an idea of hitch location in the bed)
• Side view of rig fully coupled (tailgate up / closed), which would show rail clearances, pin-box location in the bed, rig level-ness, etc

Just sayin' ....