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Old 07-29-2020, 05:07 PM   #1
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2020 Sierra vs. 5.0TA

Traded my 2014 Sierra 1500 for a 2020 same. The box on the new truck must be deeper because I scraped the edge of the box with the 5.0 yesterday while maneuvering into a parking spot. Ideas on modifications to either the Andersen Hitch or the 5.0?
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Old 07-29-2020, 05:16 PM   #2
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Put on the high lift kit. I had the same problem with my 2018 Silverado and the Pull Rite hitch when making turns on very uneven ground in wilderness campgrounds. Problem has been solved.
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Old 07-29-2020, 06:35 PM   #3
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What’s the height of the bed rails? Height on my F150 is 56” and I’ve never had an issue. Does your trailer sit level when hitched? If not that can mess you up.
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Old 07-29-2020, 08:08 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GimliGuy View Post
Put on the high lift kit. I had the same problem with my 2018 Silverado and the Pull Rite hitch when making turns on very uneven ground in wilderness campgrounds. Problem has been solved.
Add the "high lift kit" to the trailer? Already built with it.
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Old 08-01-2020, 09:15 AM   #5
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With a minimal amount of air in the Ride-Right air bags the box measures 58".
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Old 08-03-2020, 02:07 PM   #6
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Sorry you're having trouble.
I have a few questions for you. I am in the market for a new tow and looked at the Silverado, crew cab, short bed, with four wheel drive. Bed height was at 58”. This scares me.
Questions,
1, Are you measuring the truck empty, or with the trailer on (pin weight in truck)?
2, How is your Anderson set up, adapter forward or back?
3. Is your Anderson centered on the axle?
4, What hit the truck sides? Pin box or?
5, Is the pin box in upper or lower holes?
6. You said Ride Rite air bags, are those aftermarket?
Hope you can help.
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Old 08-04-2020, 11:49 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by rmitch View Post
Sorry you're having trouble.

I have a few questions for you. I am in the market for a new tow and looked at the Silverado, crew cab, short bed, with four wheel drive. Bed height was at 58”. This scares me.

Questions,

1, Are you measuring the truck empty, or with the trailer on (pin weight in truck)?

2, How is your Anderson set up, adapter forward or back?

3. Is your Anderson centered on the axle?

4, What hit the truck sides? Pin box or?

5, Is the pin box in upper or lower holes?

6. You said Ride Rite air bags, are those aftermarket?

Hope you can help.
Box is unloaded for 58" measurement. The Red Plastic covered receiver was turned from rearward to forward to give more clearance for the tailgate. The Andersen is aftermarket and the pin is just aft of the axle. The Escape black frame extension onto the end of which the Andersen receiver is mounted has two sets of bolts going into the lower two of the three sets of holes on the frame, i.e. the front of the trailer is in the higher of two possible positions.

The only way I see to modify the setup to clear the truck bed sides would be to angle the frame extension downward more sharply, but that may weaken it....

I am otherwise VERY happy with the new GMC. I got the 3L diesel and it has plenty of power and great mileage.
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Old 08-05-2020, 07:53 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PM15283 View Post
Box is unloaded for 58" measurement. The Red Plastic covered receiver was turned from rearward to forward to give more clearance for the tailgate. The Andersen is aftermarket and the pin is just aft of the axle. The Escape black frame extension onto the end of which the Andersen receiver is mounted has two sets of bolts going into the lower two of the three sets of holes on the frame, i.e. the front of the trailer is in the higher of two possible positions.
You need to send us a picture. Do you have the Gooseneck setup? Is that what you are referring to with the "three sets of holes"?

Here is my Anderson Gooseneck. I have 60" rails and the High Lift trailer. I have air bags set to 20# and I can lower that to 5# if I need. I don't need to.

Notice in the picture I am set at the lowest ball setting (cotter pin). When hiched up, is your trailer near level?

Take a pic and send it in. Maybe we can help.
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Old 08-05-2020, 08:55 AM   #9
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Exclamation

Maybe this annotated drawing I created from ETI's 5.0 Towing Compatibility document will be of some help?

PM15283 ...
  • From your description your pinbox is in the Extended (Standard Configuration) location, the top drawing on the figure
  • Note that insofar as vertical clearances, the orientation of your Andersen Coupler Block on the trailer's kingpin makes no difference
  • Note that the green dimensions are with the HiLift axle as provided by ETI
  • Note that even with the HiLift axle, the vertical clearance under the bed loft is only 61-3/8" ~ 61-15/16", leaving a 3-3/8"~4" 'gap' between the trailer loft bottom and a 58" high tailgate/bedrail (that's not much, especially for anything other than 'level towing')
  • Note that all of these dimensions are with the rig on level ground and the trailer level


IMO, there's only a few ways to possibly increase that vertical 'trailer-loft-bottom-to-truck-rail-clearance':
  • Raise the Andersen coupler ball in its hitch base (use the bottom of the three holes provided in the Andersen ball-shaft, with the consequence that the trailer may then be 'too nose-up', with attendant trailer tire wear, weight transfer, and handling implications). NO, don't even think about making an even lower hole in that Andersen ball-shaft.
  • Abandon the Andersen in favor of a 5th-wheel hitch that is higher off the bed-floor (again, with the consequence that the trailer may then be 'too nose-up', with attendant trailer tire wear, weight transfer, and handling implications).
  • Lower the truck's suspension (e.g. lowering springs, with all the cost and suspension travel and ground-clearance implications that go with that 'radical solution')
  • Fabricate an even higher HiLift axle mounting on the trailer (with all the cost, raised center of gravity, and handling implications that go with that 'radical solution')
Quote:
Originally Posted by PM15283 View Post
..The only way I see to modify the setup to clear the truck bed sides would be to angle the frame extension downward more sharply, but that may weaken it....
Modification of the pinbox / kingpin 'snout' to allow an unintended configuration would be a very foolish undertaking, from more than a few perspectives (structural integrity, trailer 'too nose high' attitude, etc, etc), IMO.

I know that ETI says the 5.0TA with HiLift axle may accommodate trucks up to 58" tailgate / bed rail height, but IMO the resultant vertical clearances are absolutely minimal IF that is indeed your bed height, or near that, when loaded with the trailer's weight. So minimal that I wouldn't want to have that situation in 'real-world-use'. It seems you've demonstrated that.

Bottom line, great as they may be not all pickup's are suitable for use with the 5.0TA - the height of the tailgate / bed rails can be an issue, a significant issue, and there's potentially significant compromises involved in trying to mitigate that real-world constraint.

I sincerely hope you can work-out a suitable solution for your situation. Good Luck!
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Old 08-05-2020, 09:34 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by Centex View Post
Lower the truck's suspension (e.g. lowering springs, with all the cost and suspension travel implications that go with that 'radical solution')
Use the smallest diameter wheels/tires that can be purchased as standard equipment on the base level trim Silverado. (If you can switch to smaller tires, you may have to program the size into the truck computer to get everything else to work well.)
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Old 08-05-2020, 09:51 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by UncleTim View Post
You need to send us a picture. Do you have the Gooseneck setup? Is that what you are referring to with the "three sets of holes"?

Here is my Anderson Gooseneck. I have 60" rails and the High Lift trailer. I have air bags set to 20# and I can lower that to 5# if I need. I don't need to.

Notice in the picture I am set at the lowest ball setting (cotter pin). When hiched up, is your trailer near level?

Take a pic and send it in. Maybe we can help.
Falling asleep last night I figured out the cause. Because the tailgate is taller on this truck than my 2014 Sierra I turned the gooseneck receiver around and got a more comfortable distance with the tailgate down. However, that moved the gooseneck back so it contacts the box sidewall on a very sharp turn, such as when parking. Need to raise the ball about 2 inches somehow and all will be well.
Thanks to all for the help!
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Old 08-05-2020, 09:57 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by sherminator View Post
Use the smallest diameter wheels/tires that can be purchased as standard equipment on the base level trim Silverado. (If you can switch to smaller tires, you may have to program the size into the truck computer to get everything else to work well.)
A possibility, but I'm almost certain you'll find that all of the available OE wheel size / tire profile combinations are within a very small fraction of an inch of each other in terms of overall diameter / rolling diameter which bears on 'net bed height'.

Any meaningful change (reduction) in wheel/tire overall diameter has implications on not only speedo / odometer calibration but also ground-clearance and effective overall gearing, the latter not only impacting mileage but also potentially transmission shifting behavior. Maybe there's an aftermarket PCM reprogramming 'solution' for that, Caveat Emptor.
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Old 08-05-2020, 10:00 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PM15283 View Post
Falling asleep last night I figured out the cause. Because the tailgate is taller on this truck than my 2014 Sierra I turned the gooseneck receiver around and got a more comfortable distance with the tailgate down. However, that moved the gooseneck back so it contacts the box sidewall on a very sharp turn, such as when parking. Need to raise the ball about 2 inches somehow and all will be well.
Thanks to all for the help!

With my 2015 Sierra I did some angle cuts to eliminate the sidewall contact with the pin box.

Cheers
Doug

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Old 08-05-2020, 10:05 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by PM15283 View Post
Falling asleep last night I figured out the cause. Because the tailgate is taller on this truck than my 2014 Sierra I turned the gooseneck receiver around and got a more comfortable distance with the tailgate down. However, that moved the gooseneck back so it contacts the box sidewall on a very sharp turn, such as when parking.
By "gooseneck receiver" are you referring to the Andersen Coupler Block that mounts to the trailer kingpin, and rotating that so the Andersen ball is in front of the kingpin?

So is your 'contact' between the back of the pinbox and the inside of the bed rail (a horizontal clearance issue), OR between the top of the bedrail and something on the trailer (a vertical clearance issue)?

Many here have noted that they must install the Andersen Coupler Block with the ball socket behind the kingpin in order to avoid conflict of the horizontal sort, and just have to suffer the need to back near enough to get the kingpin in the bed, then stop and raise the tailgate before backing the rest of the way to couple the trailer.

Yes, pics definitely worth 1000 words.
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Old 08-05-2020, 10:52 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Centex View Post
Maybe this annotated drawing I created from ETI's 5.0 Towing Compatibility document will be of some help?

PM15283 ...
  • From your description your pinbox is in the Extended (Standard Configuration) location, the top drawing on the figure
  • Note that insofar as vertical clearances, the orientation of your Andersen Coupler Block on the trailer's kingpin makes no difference
  • Note that the green dimensions are with the HiLift axle as provided by ETI
  • Note that even with the HiLift axle, the vertical clearance under the bed loft is only 61-3/8" ~ 61-15/16", leaving a 3-3/8"~4" 'gap' between the trailer loft bottom and a 58" high tailgate/bedrail (that's not much, especially for anything other than 'level towing')
  • Note that all of these dimensions are with the rig on level ground and the trailer level


IMO, there's only a few ways to possibly increase that vertical 'trailer-loft-bottom-to-truck-rail-clearance':
  • Raise the Andersen coupler ball in its hitch base (use the bottom of the three holes provided in the Andersen ball-shaft, with the consequence that the trailer may then be 'too nose-up', with attendant trailer tire wear, weight transfer, and handling implications). NO, don't even think about making an even lower hole in that Andersen ball-shaft.
  • Abandon the Andersen in favor of a 5th-wheel hitch that is higher off the bed-floor (again, with the consequence that the trailer may then be 'too nose-up', with attendant trailer tire wear, weight transfer, and handling implications).
  • Lower the truck's suspension (e.g. lowering springs, with all the cost and suspension travel and ground-clearance implications that go with that 'radical solution')
  • Fabricate an even higher HiLift axle mounting on the trailer (with all the cost, raised center of gravity, and handling implications that go with that 'radical solution')
Modification of the pinbox / kingpin 'snout' to allow an unintended configuration would be a very foolish undertaking, from more than a few perspectives (structural integrity, trailer 'too nose high' attitude, etc, etc), IMO.

I know that ETI says the 5.0TA with HiLift axle may accommodate trucks up to 58" tailgate / bed rail height, but IMO the resultant vertical clearances are absolutely minimal IF that is indeed your bed height, or near that, when loaded with the trailer's weight. So minimal that I wouldn't want to have that situation in 'real-world-use'. It seems you've demonstrated that.

Bottom line, great as they may be not all pickup's are suitable for use with the 5.0TA - the height of the tailgate / bed rails can be an issue, a significant issue, and there's potentially significant compromises involved in trying to mitigate that real-world constraint.

I sincerely hope you can work-out a suitable solution for your situation. Good Luck!
What would you consider minimum clearance for rails? The bed of my truck is 57" but equipped with airbags. I have recently purchased the truck and never messed with the bags. I would like a 5.0 in the future.
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Old 08-05-2020, 11:22 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by sofmerc View Post
What would you consider minimum clearance for rails? ...
When talking about the inside-the bed horizontal pinbox clearance, which is relatively 'fixed' independent trailer / TV 'gyrations', I'm looking for ~2". In the case of my specific TV that's easy with the Andersen Coupler Block positioned behind the kingpin.

When looking at vertical clearances I'm gonna hedge on offering more opinion about a 'static minimum dimension' - so much dependent on user habits, expectations, and willingness to take care / adjust behavior if needed (e.g. drive with caution and avoid certain grade-breaks), IMO.

Google '5th wheel bed clearance' to reveal lots of opinions / suggestions.

I'll offer that in my case-specific evaluation using all the data from ETI and data available from Ford + hands-on measurements specific to my F150 pickup, I found that I can reasonably expect to see no less than 5.8" static vertical clearance while maintaining a 'trailer-level' stance. That with the standard, not HiLift axle, and that assuming NO sag to my truck suspension with the trailer load added. It only gets better if I assume some truck-sag with the trailer load or a HiLift axle option, and all possibilities are within the normal adjustment range of the Andersen hitch if fitted in my truck. So when I determined that I stopped worrying about my truck's suitability with a 5.0TA. YMMV and none of that helps the OP unfortunately.
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Old 08-05-2020, 11:58 AM   #17
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I too had the problem of the back of the hitch scrapping the sides of my truck. I have the pullright sliding hitch. I ended up putting the lifts on the trailer axles as well as adding 2 4x6” 1/4” thick steel tubes under the rails to raise the entire hitch up. Then bolting to the truck frame.
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Old 08-05-2020, 12:43 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by CWood View Post
I too had the problem of the back of the hitch scrapping the sides of my truck. I have the pullright sliding hitch. I ended up putting the lifts on the trailer axles as well as adding 2 4x6” 1/4” thick steel tubes under the rails to raise the entire hitch up. Then bolting to the truck frame.
I believe your solution is the answer, though 2" of lift should be adequate. I doubt getting 4" more "nose up" would create a problem, but if 2" would do the job.....
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Old 08-05-2020, 01:19 PM   #19
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I also have an F150 and will use the Anderson hitch. Hopefully this newbie won't scrape truck rails during learning curve..
I should probably play with airbags a bit. My truck came with universal rails installed in bed
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Old 08-05-2020, 01:45 PM   #20
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I also have an F150 ...
FYI my evaluation mentioned above was for my 2005 F150 XLT Supercab 6.5ft bed; 2WD; 5.4l V8; 3.73:1 limited slip; HD towing package; 1780# rated payload.

Later /current body style F150s and different drivetrains may differ significantly insofar as various heights / clearances.

I've had that truck since new, only ~130k miles on it, it's in great shape mechanically and cosmetically, unlike some my experience with the 5.4 has been great. I have no problem driving a 'cherry' older vehicle, the upgrade to a modern hands-free infotainment system supporting multiple rear-view/hookup cams is easy, and lacking an OE backup cam in the tailgate it lends to tailgate removal or replacement with a 'low-profile version to make 5.0 hookup even easier.

Already having that truck is what makes consideration of a 5.0TA possible for me; when I started exploring an upsize from my Casita I was only thinking in terms of a bumper-pull behind my '19 Honda Ridgeline daily-driver .... that thinking has evolved, the 5.0TA is sooo seductive .... .
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