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Old 12-02-2020, 10:32 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bbbqmaxx@yahoo.com View Post
I opted to go with an upgraded stove for much less. Dometic D21, PN 50216 drop in cooktop - similar dimensions and better grill and BTUs. Still need to install.
Hope it works well for you. I personally am no fan of Dometic and try to minimize the use of their products. Already ripped out the A/C in favor of a Fujitsu mini-split. Right now only the fridge is made by them. Since Dometic bought Atwood I would be unlikely to use one of their furnaces especially considering all the issues you hear about the stock DFSAD12 model. Probably go with a Propex or similar if our trusty Atwood 8012-II needs replacement. Atwood DV20 stove was ok but had a tiny propane regulator that vented off propane to interior. That is gone too with a Dickinson 2-burner cooktop in it's place. Appliances seem to be the biggest complaint of these trailers and by replacing you get better functionality and will minimize problems. More time for hassle free enjoyment of the trailer.
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Old 12-02-2020, 01:51 PM   #22
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Only a Matter of Time

I took my stove out today and it is not broken...yet. However in my opinion it is only a matter of time before each one of these stoves will fail.

The entire weight of the copper tubing supplying the stove (over 2 feet), regulator, two valves and all the tubing and fillings is being supported by the two thin aluminum supply tubes attached to the burners. The weight is support only at 3 points marked in the first photo with yellow Xs. To make things even worse...the whole mass moves up and down 5/8 of an inch...possibly at every bump your trailer makes.

In my mind this is unacceptable. This type of aluminum tubing is not made to be in constant flex. Minimally the controls should be screwed to the stove and provide no flexing of the aluminum tubes...but this is not the case...they just float in position.

I tried posting a video of the movement in question but was unable to do so.

I will think on how to best secure everything...
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Old 12-02-2020, 01:58 PM   #23
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Ed, is that stove the glass flat) top? Or the older model with the metal flip top? Thanks.
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Old 12-02-2020, 02:21 PM   #24
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That would be the glass top which was introduced in 2018.
I have just discovered the problem and the “no removal fix”
I will post further info shortly.
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Old 12-02-2020, 03:02 PM   #25
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Thanks. My 2018 model 17A was finished in March and I have the old flip top without the flip top.
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Old 12-02-2020, 03:23 PM   #26
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On further inspection...there are threads and nuts on the two control valves to secure it to the stove...who knew. However during assembly the little black plastic beautification shroud was placed under the nut. This tight (to the nut) fitting shroud does not allow for any tool to tighten the nuts. Thus my nuts were so loose that it allowed for all the stuff hanging below to move uninhibited.

So the simple fix is to remove the nuts one at a time by squeezing the black shroud with your fingers, removing the shroud, adding a lock washer if you have one, then the nut, tighten the nut, then add the beauty shroud over the nut. All done without having to removing the stove.

Keep in mind that you will not know how much damage has been already done. Maybe your stove was assembled properly by another person and your nuts and control valves are tight. On the other hand if your control valves are real loose and you have driven many miles...you may want to inspect the underside by removing the heat shields two screws.

If you want to remove the stove it is easy to unlatch by removing the four black plugs in the corners then a few turns of the screw will release it. Only you know if you have the further skills to deal with the propane...like turning it off, burning off the excess gas, using two wrenches to undo the fitting, air out the trailer and keep in mind that you also need to depower the 12 volt wires at the rear. No good can come from an open gas line and sparking wires.

I am going to try and pass this information onto Escape so they can make the appropriate adjustment to all new Escapes using this stove.
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Old 12-02-2020, 06:39 PM   #27
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I agree that the thin tubes supplying the gas to the burners are poorly designed, one of mine was broken from what looked like over tightening. When I got the replacement unit from Escape I did check that there are no loose connections. We probably used it few dozen times and traveled thousands of miles and so far it is holding up. If it breaks down again I'll look for a better built unit that also have higher output.
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Old 12-02-2020, 06:43 PM   #28
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When reinstalling the stove I found that the copper propane supply tube had been rubbing on the steal heat deflector as indicated by the mark. (Picture 1) I can only imagine that the value nuts would loosen more in the future allowing for more than the 5/8 inch movement I had.

After reinstalling the copper line there is now appropriate distancing between the two. (Picture 2)

The two valves are supporting a lot of hardware including the pressure regulator and about two feet of copper tubing. It should be ok for most users but I did design and install an extra support for the avid off roader.
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Old 12-02-2020, 08:09 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Effie View Post
If it breaks down again I'll look for a better built unit that also have higher output.
I put this together awhile back which might help if you or anyone else is ever researching new cooktops.

-Suburban SDS2-RV: 5800 BTU both burners (current recessed cooktop with glass cover)
-Atwood DV20 (2 burner): 7200 BTU large, 5200 BTU small burner (older Escape cooktop)
-Atwood DV30 (3 burner): same as above, add one @ 5200 BTU (older Escape cooktop option)
-Atwood Oven/Stove combo: 9000 BTU large, two 6500 BTU
-Dickinson (2 burner): 11000 BTU large, 7000 BTU small
-SMEV PI8022US 2 burner: 5900 BTU large, 3700 BTU small
-SMEV PI8822LUS 2 burner: 7200 BTU large, 3700 BTU small
-Older Suburban (2 burner): 6500 BTU each
-Older Suburban (3 burner): 6500 BTU large, two @ 5200 BTU
-Dometic 3BR-1040132 RV: 3 burners @ 3700 BTU
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Old 12-02-2020, 08:16 PM   #30
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Thanks for posting this.. I just upgraded to this stove and will check on your findings. Fortunately, I’ve only got one trip on the stove so I can catch this early.
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Old 12-02-2020, 08:43 PM   #31
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I found the best value in Canada for a stove to be this one from Amazon.ca. We had one in our last trailer and what more can I say...it worked.

However I do like the look of the one from Way International. I received a reply from them within 6 hours when I asked if they had any distributors in Canada. I guess the answer is no...however they will ship me one.
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Old 12-02-2020, 09:09 PM   #32
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I found the best value in Canada for a stove to be this one from Amazon.ca. We had one in our last trailer and what more can I say...it worked.
That looks like a rebranded Atwood DV20. Even has the same BTU’s.
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Old 12-02-2020, 11:15 PM   #33
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That looks like a rebranded Atwood DV20. Even has the same BTU’s.
Yup...
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Old 12-02-2020, 11:50 PM   #34
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Good to have choices
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Old 12-03-2020, 06:27 AM   #35
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I called Escape. Destin (Dustin?)'s voice mail said this is their busy period. (When isn't their busy period?) I'll wait for a call back. We won't get to an RV dealer we'll be around for the month the warranty process takes until Christmas. Thank you for all the help!
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Old 12-03-2020, 05:56 PM   #36
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OK, I have calmed down enough to speak in sentences I hope. Upon reading this post I remembered smelling gas the last time I used our Suburban SDS2 cooktop. So I went out and started a burner and smelled in the cabinet and I smelt gas. Today I took out the cook top out and sure enough the aluminum tube that feeds the burner was snapped off. Thanks to the Escape Trailer Community we will not die from an explosion from our cook top and a BIG no thanks to Escape and Suburban for not notifying us about this problem which at this point they must be fully aware. I would get a new top on warranty but we would end up with the same dangerous cook top. Thanks to you all for this and many other things!!!
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Old 12-03-2020, 06:08 PM   #37
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Why is your propane gas detector not working?
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Old 12-03-2020, 06:28 PM   #38
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I am sure that it is working but the last time out I only used the burner for a few minutes and the little extra gas smell was from not starting burner quickly enough. It was not enough gas to alarm me or set the alarm off. Upon reading this post I remembered that I smelled a little gas last time and I better check that for sure and Wa La, gas leak. The aluminum tubes are extremely flimsy and dangerous. The tube snapped off inside the connection and the burner was still working .
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Old 12-03-2020, 06:28 PM   #39
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OK, I would get a new top on warranty but we would end up with the same dangerous cook top. Thanks to you all for this and many other things!!!
I would assume that the tubing under you stove can be moved up and down along with the two valves being loose from the stove top.

I would not hesitate to replace the unit with the same model. Once the two gas valve nuts are tightened properly to the stove top so they will not loosen in the future, there should be no problem with this stove.

I am not sure that Escape or the manufacturer knows exactly what the problem is or why they are failing. I have left a message on Carl’s voice mail indicating that I could shed some light on the situation.
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Old 12-03-2020, 06:31 PM   #40
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Also it only leaks when the burner is on.
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