Where to put a Micro in a new 19?

[homebrewer]

When we got the large compressor refrigerator in our new 19, ETI said a micro would not fit above it. Has anyone found a small micro that would fit above the refrigerator? It looks like the microwave would have to be less than 10” high, but I haven’t been able to verify by opening up the vacant space above the refrigerator. Or has anyone found an alternate location? I’m looking at the following concept - mount a retractable/rotating TV mount with a shelf for a small microwave, on the wall left of the refrigerator. It would swing out of the way, above the bed when not in use, and would not be in the way for sleeping. It would obscure the view out the emergency exit window, but only partially. If the weight while traveling is any concern, it could be put in the tow vehicle when moving. We’ve really missed a micro in the few trips we’ve had so far and I want to see if anyone else came up with a solution.

[brroberts]

Typically ETI would put it under the cooktop if you select a larger fridge. If you got an oven, then ETI would not install a micro. Seems a removable swing out bracket could work depending on weight and installation factors.

[rubicon327]

This low profile microwave is pretty close to 10” high. Chance it might fit.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Whirlpool-L...B&gclsrc=aw.ds

[homebrewer]

I found a better option for the microwave - only 9.5" tall and 21 pounds. I still don't know if that's short enough to fit above the refrigerator since I can't easily get into that area. Here's the microwave if anyone is interested - Galanz GLCMKZ07BER07. Only $80 and free shipping - almost cheaper than at Goodwill. I would really like to use the space above the fridge - it's just begging to be filled with something. I think I'm going to cut the front panel out no matter what - if the microwave can't fit, it will be used for storage somehow.

[h2owmn]

In my 17a (no microwave) there's a dedicated outlet in that cupboard for it. What are you thinking for electricity to the microwave?

[homebrewer]

Well, I went ahead and cut into the area above the refrigerator, thinking that even if there wasn't enough height for a small micro, I could use it for more storage or something. I measured the clearance - it would allow a 9.75" tall microwave! Immediately ordered the Galanz from Amazon - the only one that I found that could fit (9.5"). The power can be supplied from a 120 vac. outlet below the refrigerator. I may have to remove the little rubber feet under the microwave to get more clearance. The microwave was only $80 and I can return it if it doesn't fit. A microwave for the next camping trip!

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by homebrewer

Well, I went ahead and cut into the area above the refrigerator, thinking that even if there wasn't enough height for a small micro, I could use it for more storage or something. I measured the clearance - it would allow a 9.75" tall microwave! Immediately ordered the Galanz from Amazon - the only one that I found that could fit (9.5"). The power can be supplied from a 120 vac. outlet below the refrigerator. I may have to remove the little rubber feet under the microwave to get more clearance. The microwave was only $80 and I can return it if it doesn't fit. A microwave for the next camping trip!

Please share some pictures.

[Mike G]

Previous owners of my 2012 19' didn't have a microwave, either. I bought an Insignia retro unit from Best Buy. I think my space is a little bit taller than yours, though.

[homebrewer]

I'm convinced the micro will fit, although it hasn't arrived yet - The trim around the sides will make it look good and hold it in place. Now my concern is where to get the 120 vac. from. There's an outlet near the floor that I planned to run some wires from, but I can't get the cover off - no screw like I'm familiar with, and I can't get to the back of it without cutting out more paneling. Any suggestions for how to get into the outlet or get120 vac to the micro above the refrigeraor?

[occer]

The cover is held on by a couple friction tabs. It should just pull off, be gentle but firm.
https://www.acehardware.com/departme...E&gclsrc=aw.ds


Have you looked in the cabinet where they would have installed a micro wave had you ordered one?

Here is a picture of the back of the cover plate and the plug in our trailer.

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by occer

Have you looked in the cabinet where they would have installed a micro wave had you ordered one?

No such space. The OP said he cut into the panel above the larger stock fridge where Escape said a microwave was not possible to install.

[homebrewer]

Thanks occer- I assumed that the outlet cover was like that, but I’ve broken stuff in the past with my assumptions. I’ll give it a try.
It’s not that I didn’t order a micro from ETI - they cancelled my order because of the larger compressor refrigerator they had to substitute due to supply issues, that location was empty and boarded up. So I’m going to have to get creative with trim around the microwave - see the picture. I cut an inspection hatch - you can see the reflective and foam insulation in the back; I’m pleased with the unseen areas that show the quality of workmanship. The top of the refrigerator inside is only about 10 inches from the raw fiberglass roof of the camper. The microwave (arriving tomorrow) is 9.5 inches tall. It should work but I’ll need to lock it down so it doesn’t move, and frame it so just the face is poking out.
After I get the microwave and verify that it will fit, I’ll cut open up the cabinet some more and take more pictures, everyone can see what’s above and behind the refrigerator. I really like the compressor refrigerator because it doesn’t need the two large hatches cut out of the side of the trailer - much cleaner.

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by Donna D.

There's a reason there's no cupboard above the refrigerator. That's the chimney for moving hot air up and out. Oh dear.....

With a compressor fridge as long as it’s not completely blocked allowing heat to build up it will be fine. The airflow pattern is no where near as critical as an absorption fridge.

[h2owmn]

I don't want to rain on your parade...but you may want to take a look at the installation instructions in the booklet that's linked on the Amazon site. From what I found it requires a grounded outlet with fuse or circuit breaker. The booklet says it requires 7.87 inches clearance above and 1.97 inches on each side. It also says don't remove the feet.

Maybe you can investigate another spot? Change the wardrobe door into two doors with the microwave having its own space/door on the top?

You've made a big investment in your trailer and I would be sad to know your microwave installation caused a fire or endangered your family. I hope you can find something that works out.

[homebrewer]

Correct, Rubicon327. RV owners will begin to understand the difference (huge, in my opinion) between the new compressor refrigerators and absorption refrigerators. Both have to 'reject heat' in order to cool the inside. Mine rejects the heat into the RV, under the freezer drawer - that's where the compressor is, just like most home refrigerators. The whole refrigerator compartment is insulated and foam sealed from the outside, so all the heat that comes out of the refrigerator goes into the RV. The heat rejected is much lower, since it doesn't use a small propane flame. It may be noisier than the absorption type, but it's extremely low. The power converter and the 1500 w. inverter both have fans that are louder than the refrigerator. The downside, if there is one, is that propane use goes way down, and electricity use goes up. This is one of the reasons I asked ETI to delete the furnace - the refrigerator puts a small amount of heat into the RV, which makes the amount of heat required from the Dickinson heater (which is what my other major modification was about) a little bit less. Sorry for the long dissertation, but it's a bad habit of mine.

[Donna D.]

Originally Posted by rubicon327

With a compressor fridge as long as it’s not completely blocked allowing heat to build up it will be fine. The airflow pattern is no where near as critical as an absorption fridge.

Yeah, you responded before I could delete my post . I re-read the original post and saw it was a compressor fridge. I don't think I had enough coffee before I posted....

[Mike G]

Originally Posted by h2owmn

I don't want to rain on your parade...but you may want to take a look at the installation instructions in the booklet that's linked on the Amazon site. From what I found it requires a grounded outlet with fuse or circuit breaker. The booklet says it requires 7.87 inches clearance above and 1.97 inches on each side. It also says don't remove the feet.

Maybe you can investigate another spot? Change the wardrobe door into two doors with the microwave having its own space/door on the top?

You've made a big investment in your trailer and I would be sad to know your microwave installation caused a fire or endangered your family. I hope you can find something that works out.

I doubt it would cause a fire. More likely the lack of surround space will inhibit the microwave's exhaust airflow and shorten its life substantially.

[CE Vogel]

The clearance requirements of microwaves is for ventilation. Microwaves blow a lot of air through their cabinets to keep the electronics cool and disperse water vapor in the cooking chamber. Homebrewer could install a large ventilation vent on the left side of the cabinet which would probably be sufficient to heat a cup of coffee or soup, but not sufficient for a 10-minute run.
I really like my Norcold compressor refrigerator. I think you'll like yours, too.

[homebrewer]

I was able to run a wire from the outlet below the refrigerator, up to the area where I wanted to locate the micro. Then I mounted an outlet near the back of the cabinet. When the microwave arrived from Amazon, I confirmed all the dimensions and cut out the rest of the front plywood. The microwave fits nicely side-to-side and top-to-bottom, so it won't bounce around or move backwards and forwards while towing. I reused pieces of the trim that I pulled off, to make it look better. There's still gaps for air flow on the bottom and sides. If I ever need to take the microwave back out for any reason, the trim can easily be removed and replaced. The microwave is "rated" at 700 watts, but that's the input to the food item being heated - it actually draws about 1100 watts, so if some other 120 vac appliance is being used, you could trip the inverter, but as long as you're aware of this limit, it won't cause a problem. Also, note that the inverter output has a GFCI - it tripped on me once during this project and initially I couldn't figure out why I didn't have 120 volt power. The red light on the GO-POWER switch was lit, but no power. I pushed the reset button on the inverter and all was good - lesson learned. I also snuck in a picture of the waste basket drawer I made under the refrigerator, next to the outlet where the I got the power from - an earlier modification that has been very handy.

[occer]

That looks great, very good job.