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04-07-2016, 10:16 AM
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#21
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Calgary, Alberta
Trailer: 2017 Escape 5.0 TA
Posts: 15,568
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CADreamin
Bottom line, it would appear we shouldn't have had the rod replaced, nor should we have agreed to the magnesium rod. I guess it's all a learning curve. (BTW, thanks for moving this to a separate thread. Hopefully, others can be helped by the information collected here.)
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As Carl explained, I would go for the magnesium rod too. But you are right that it did not need to be replaced for some time yet. They may be cheap, but I hate to throw things away that are still useful, and put my $15 towards a few beer.
__________________
2017 Escape 5.0 TA
2015 Ford F150 Lariat 3.5L EcoBoost
2009 Escape 19 (previous)
“Most folks are about as happy as they make up their minds to be.” — Abraham Lincoln
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04-07-2016, 11:09 AM
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#22
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Felton, California
Trailer: 2018 21' ; 2014 19' (Sold)
Posts: 1,309
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Thanks Carl and Jim ... your analysis makes me feel better about the magnesium rod replacement at least.
__________________
Jan
We do not remember days, we remember moments.
- Cesare Pavese
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04-07-2016, 12:18 PM
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#23
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Seatac, Washington
Trailer: "The Trailer", 2nd Gen 21' & a 2017 Tundra CrewMax in Blazing Blue Pearl
Posts: 2,888
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thoer
(Maybe we need to split anode discussion off the wheel bearing thread?)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CADreamin
(BTW, thanks for moving this to a separate thread. Hopefully, others can be helped by the information collected here.)
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Yeah, thanks! I wasn't reading the wheel bearing thread any longer, but I've started to read this one. Heck, I didn't even know what an anode is, where it is and what the purpose is. I do now.
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04-07-2016, 01:03 PM
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#24
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2013
Location: ..., New Mexico
Trailer: 2013 Esc19/'14 Silvrado
Posts: 4,193
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We rarely use the hot water heater, but when we do, never leave it on indefinitely. My anode, the original, after 31 months.
__________________
Myron
"A billion here, a billion there...add it all up and before you know it you're talking real money." Everett Dirkson
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12-12-2016, 08:09 PM
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#25
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Ione, California
Trailer: 2014 15B Escape Trailer
Posts: 72
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Having difficulty removing anode
This is my 2nd year owning a 15' Escape. I live in Sacramento, California where winter temps rarely dip below 36 degrees, and when they do it's typically for less than an hour. That's why I feel fairly confident I don't need to winterize trailer using anti-freeze but I do empty the lines and water tank. Removing the anode the 1st year was easy but this year I can't seem to remove it with my socket wrench. I noticed there's some mild rust and am wondering would there be any issue with spraying anode head with rust remover to see if that would help loosen it? Any other tips on removing stubborn anode rod would be much appreciated.
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12-12-2016, 08:31 PM
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#26
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: North Vancouver, British Columbia
Trailer: 2009 Escape 17B 2020 Toyota Highlander XLE
Posts: 17,136
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Hope you wrapped the threads with plumber tape before re-installing it. Otherwise, you can move just about anything using the lever principal. A piece of pipe over the ratchet can extend the handle and increase leverage.
__________________
What happens to the hole when the cheese is gone?
- Bertolt Brecht
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12-12-2016, 08:32 PM
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#27
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Galesville, Wisconsin
Trailer: 2017 21 "Blue II" & 2017 Highlander XLE (previously 2010 17B "Blue" & 2008 Tacoma)
Posts: 4,234
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Jen & Angie some rust dissolver shouldn't present any problem as it should not get into the tank itself. When you put the anode (or a new one) back in, be sure to wrap the threads in teflon tape. That helps both to prevent it leaking and makes it easier to remove in the future.
__________________
Eric (and Mary who is in no way responsible for anything stupid I post)
"Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance." George Bernard Shaw
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12-12-2016, 08:41 PM
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#28
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Burlington Twp., New Jersey
Trailer: 2010 Escape 19
Posts: 7,146
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jen & Angie
Removing the anode the 1st year was easy but this year I can't seem to remove it with my socket wrench. I noticed there's some mild rust and am wondering would there be any issue with spraying anode head with rust remover to see if that would help loosen it? Any other tips on removing stubborn anode rod would be much appreciated.
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Use a 6 point socket versus 12 if possible for better engagement with the anode head. Put on the shortest extension that works and use a breaker bar. Some advise against rust remover because of fear of it seeping into the tank but honestly I don't think a couple squirts of BP Blaster on the threads is going to hurt anyone. Other than that you can try an impact wrench. Once you get it out make sure the threads are clean on the water heater and put teflon tape on the new anode before putting it in.
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12-12-2016, 08:53 PM
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#29
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Site Team
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Canyon Lake, Texas
Trailer: 2015 19 "Past Tents", 2021 F150 Lariat 2.7L EB
Posts: 10,222
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Second the breaker bar. I use a swivel head one about 2 feet long, with a shallow socket. Works easily. Wrap the threads (just the threads) with Teflon tape on the new one before installing. By the way, the breaker bar also makes short work of removing tight lug nuts, and makes adjusting my Anderson Hitch a snap. I wouldn't be without it.
__________________
"You can't buy happiness, but you can buy an RV. And that is pretty close."
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12-12-2016, 08:55 PM
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#30
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Denison, Texas
Trailer: 2015 21'; 2011 19' sold; 4Runner; ph ninezero3 327-27ninefour
Posts: 5,136
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Jen and Angie, do you have a breaker bar to put on the anode socket wrench? Think that is what we used. Also Teflon tape. Do not recommend rust remover.
__________________
Cathy. Floating Cloud
"Live in the sunshine, swim the sea, drink the wild air.... "
Emerson
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12-12-2016, 09:16 PM
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#31
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Ione, California
Trailer: 2014 15B Escape Trailer
Posts: 72
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Thank you all for the wonderful advice. I did put teflon tape on last winter and will make sure to do so again. I'll buy a breaker bar (sounds like it would come in handy if I need to remove lug nuts anyway) and as a back up plan BP Blaster. The Escape Community rocks. One of the many things I love about purchasing an Escape trailer.
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12-12-2016, 09:27 PM
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#32
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: North Vancouver, British Columbia
Trailer: 2009 Escape 17B 2020 Toyota Highlander XLE
Posts: 17,136
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If your socket is too deep, fill it with coins. I use loonies and toonies because they are handy, but washers would work too.
__________________
What happens to the hole when the cheese is gone?
- Bertolt Brecht
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12-12-2016, 09:52 PM
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#33
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Arvada, Colorado
Trailer: 2015 E'21 - 'Velocity'. Tow: Toyota Tacoma V6, 4X4, manual.
Posts: 1,698
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jen & Angie
... I'll buy a breaker bar (sounds like it would come in handy if I need to remove lug nuts anyway) ...
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If you're needing the extra leverage of a breaker bar then be sure to use the correct sized socket - which I believe is 1 & 1/16 inch. (Could be 27mm but I wouldn't trust my memory.) And as someone mentioned previously, a 6 point socket has less of a chance of slipping under hard torque.
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Alan
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12-13-2016, 08:45 AM
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#34
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2013
Location: ..., New Mexico
Trailer: 2013 Esc19/'14 Silvrado
Posts: 4,193
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My neighbor came over to ask my help in removing a flat tire off her old truck that was rusted on so tight, nothing worked to remove the lugs. Ended up using heat on the lugs with a propane torch. Probably not a better solution than using a breaker bar because of the location. But heat worked, and it was easy.
__________________
Myron
"A billion here, a billion there...add it all up and before you know it you're talking real money." Everett Dirkson
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12-13-2016, 08:48 AM
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#35
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Site Team
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Portland, Oregon
Trailer: 2014 Escape 5.0 TA
Posts: 11,073
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When you reinstall the anode, just remember it only needs to be tight enough to not leak. Seems simple enough, but I know someone who really reefed on the wrench! It's not a wheel and it won't fall off.
__________________
Donna D.
Ten Forward
2014 Escape 5.0TA
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12-13-2016, 10:43 AM
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#36
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: North Van., British Columbia
Trailer: 2014 Escape 19, sold; 2019 Escape 21, Sept. 2019
Posts: 8,873
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MyronL
Probably not a better solution than using a breaker bar because of the location. But heat worked, and it was easy.
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On the other hand I've seen snapped studs so maybe using the heat was the best way to go.
Ron
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12-13-2016, 11:14 AM
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#37
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: St. Thomas not BVI., Ontario
Trailer: 2014 Escape 5.0TA / 2016 Ram Eco Diesel 4X4
Posts: 8,038
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Donna D.
When you reinstall the anode, just remember it only needs to be tight enough to not leak. Seems simple enough, but I know someone who really reefed on the wrench! It's not a wheel and it won't fall off.
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Hi: Donna D... Thanks for the reminder. What I'd like to know... Is there a safe solution to remove the rust from the threads of the water heater? Alf
escape artist N.S. of Lake Erie
__________________
Quote Bugs Bunny..."Don't take life too seriously, none of us get out of it ALIVE"!!!
'16 Ram Eco D. 4X4 Laramie Longhorn CC & '14 Escape 5.0TA
St.Thomas (Not the Virgin Islands) Ontario
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12-13-2016, 11:19 AM
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#38
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2013
Location: ..., New Mexico
Trailer: 2013 Esc19/'14 Silvrado
Posts: 4,193
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Right on Ron. I think heat is the better response here than aerosol nut removers. But if you can't wait to get to harbor freight for a cheap breaker bar, and a propane torch seems risky because of the potential for collateral trailer damage maybe a strong hair dryer on high does it.
Shucks, its only a hot water drain plug. How much rust can there be?
__________________
Myron
"A billion here, a billion there...add it all up and before you know it you're talking real money." Everett Dirkson
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12-13-2016, 11:31 AM
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#39
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: North Van., British Columbia
Trailer: 2014 Escape 19, sold; 2019 Escape 21, Sept. 2019
Posts: 8,873
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I find a quick targeted heat on the side of the nut to be more effective than a lower diffuse heat of a heat gun. I zap it for a few seconds, only to heat the nut. I not worried that the heat is on long enough to reach of damage other items.
Cleaning the threads on the anode fitting; I use a small s/s tooth brush size wire brush. There are some battery terminal cleaner brushes that would also work.
Ron
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12-13-2016, 12:03 PM
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#40
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Ventura County, California
Trailer: 2013 19 Escape
Posts: 7,206
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron in BC
I find a quick targeted heat on the side of the nut to be more effective than a lower diffuse heat of a heat gun. I zap it for a few seconds, only to heat the nut. I not worried that the heat is on long enough to reach of damage other items.
Cleaning the threads on the anode fitting; I use a small s/s tooth brush size wire brush. There are some battery terminal cleaner brushes that would also work.
Ron
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Great information Ron . Your right about the heat gun , didn't work to get the valve off for water heater . Pat
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