propane pressure regulator

[rubicon327]

Pat: See below in red.

Originally Posted by Patandlinda

Hi Dave picture of the tool I bought . Why 2 different hoses 2 I think silicone and 2 harder plastic.
You only need one hose. Use the flexible one.
Picture of back of refrigerator. Need all steps to do testing .
Do I make sure gas is off first ?
Yes, unless you have a local valve to isolate fridge (probably not). I would run a stove burner until it goes out to depressurize just to be safe.
Screw in the adapter they gave me with tool?
Yes. This is a standard fitting that should screw right in after removal of the plug.
Hook which line to tool?
Hook a single line up to the positive (+) port on the manometer. Set manometer for inches of water column or “inH2O”.
Turn on gas at tanks?
Yes.
Turn on all gas appliances? Get reading? Then get reading from each appliance with others off?
Don’t go overboard. Get a reading with nothing running first. If it is real low (below 11” w.c.) then adjust upward right away. (Hint: You probably need roughly 12” w.c. at no load to not drop below 11” w.c. at 50% load) As discussed in previous posts you want to simulate the 50% BTU load of trailer by running some things. For you, based on my previous math, I would just run your two rear stove burners and your hot water heater to accomplish this.
Turn what to increase if need be?
To increase pressure you have to remove the black cap on the regulator up at the tanks. With a flat blade screwdriver in the slot turn the disk inside clockwise to increase pressure. Make sure someone is reading the manometer and someone adjusting as it can move quick.
After shut down appliances and gas .
Yes you dial in where you want to be then shut everything down. I put the test port back in with a wrap of the yellow pipe tape made for gas applications just to be safe.

[Patandlinda]

Originally Posted by Ron in BC

Gas off to start is a good idea.
Mine was right side but put hose on and give it a puff of air. If you get a positive value then it's the one. And yes for the rest.

Ron

Thankyou Ron , I guess Dave was busy and you beat him to it. Will get to it some time today . Question though why the 2 different hoses , 1 soft flexible , the other harder plastic . Couldn't find any info . Pat

[Patandlinda]

Originally Posted by rubicon327

Pat: See below in red.

Hi Dave Thankyou for the instructions. Will get to this in a few hours today I hope . Pat

[MikeS]

Could this test be performed at the quick connect port if you have the port and a quick connect fitting? Seems like it would make the process easier.

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by MikeS

Could this test be performed at the quick connect port if you have the port and a quick connect fitting? Seems like it would make the process easier.

You could do this for an approximation of your overall propane pressure, but the point is knowing it right at the fridge burner inlet. As some of us have found the performance of these refrigerators is highly dependent on proper pressure. Ideally it is not dropping below the 11” w.c. with 50% of trailer BTU’s in use. I may have the opportunity to measure the pressure from a new 19 that recently came to NJ. I will report back as to the pressure which will give a good indication if these regulators are being dialed in properly at the factory.

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by MikeS

Could this test be performed at the quick connect port if you have the port and a quick connect fitting? Seems like it would make the process easier.

Yes, it would be easier; I suggested this a while ago, because I have little interest in using temporary push-on hose connections to adapters unless really necessary.

[cpaharley2008]

Dave,
If you ever venture to Osoyoos, bring your equipment, I'm sure myself and others would like to check our own system.

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by rubicon327

You could do this for an approximation of your overall propane pressure, but the point is knowing it right at the fridge burner inlet. As some of us have found the performance of these refrigerators is highly dependent on proper pressure.

There will only be a pressure difference between different test locations due to resistance to flow in the lines, so whether another test location (such as the quick-connect port) is suitable depends on how sensitive your appliances are to pressure. If the refrigerator is so sensitive that the pressure loss in the low-pressure piping is critical, then wouldn't the refrigerator be affected by turning the furnace or water heater on and off?

The routing of propane distribution lines will determine how close various points are to each other in pressure. That will vary by model, and possibly even by when the trailer was built (and who plumbed it).

It would be interesting to see the actual effect of different flows on the pressure at the refrigerator and at the quick-connect port. The variation will be the combined effect of the regulator's change in output pressure with total flow rate, and the loss of pressure between the regulator and various points in the distribution piping, which depends on the flow rate in each section of piping.

[Patandlinda]

Originally Posted by rubicon327

Pat: See below in red.

Dave or Ron which way to turn that nut right or to the left . It doesn't seem to move . Afraid I will mess something up . Pat

[padlin]

If you're talking the test port bolt, mine was on real good too, used a short pipe to get more torque. Look at the test set adapter to see the right direction.

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by Patandlinda

Dave or Ron which way to turn that nut right or to the left . It doesn't seem to move . Afraid I will mess something up . Pat

The two I have done recently were both standard threading. You should turn it counter-clockwise to remove.

[Patandlinda]

Originally Posted by rubicon327

The two I have done recently were both standard threading. You should turn it counter-clockwise to remove.

Got it Dave I used a ratchet wrench and got it . I was turning it right it just was pretty tight . Ok got my numbers and I think it was because a couple years ago I changed out the reg but just the standard not the H for more pressure. I also changed the hoses out because they were leaking from Day 1 .
1 is just gas on , no appliances
2 is 2 burners on stove top w/Owen
3 is 2 burners with refrigerator
4 forgot need to look at pics

[Patandlinda]

Originally Posted by Patandlinda

Got it Dave I used a ratchet wrench and got it . I was turning it right it just was pretty tight . Ok got my numbers and I think it was because a couple years ago I changed out the reg but just the standard not the H for more pressure. I also changed the hoses out because they were leaking from Day 1 .
1 is just gas on , no appliances
2 is 2 burners on stove top w/Owen
3 is 2 burners with refrigerator
4 forgot need to look at pics

4 was just refrigerator . I used yellow gas tape and put Plug back , checked for gas leaks . Turned gas off and I think I am good

[Patandlinda]

Originally Posted by padlin

If you're talking the test port bolt, mine was on real good too, used a short pipe to get more torque. Look at the test set adapter to see the right direction.

Got it Bob used my 3/8 ratchet and it broke free . Thanks ! Pat

[rubicon327]

Pat: Nice work. Sounds like it went smooth for you. I would have included the furnace or hot water heater (with the two rear stove burners) since they are the biggest consumers at 12,000 BTUH input, but with your no load number at 12.6” w.c. I’d be surprised if you dropped below 11” anyway.

[Ron in BC]

Yes, the numbers look good.

Ron

[Patandlinda]

Thankyou Dave and Ron ! Pat

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by Brian B-P

There will only be a pressure difference between different test locations due to resistance to flow in the lines, so whether another test location (such as the quick-connect port) is suitable depends on how sensitive your appliances are to pressure. If the refrigerator is so sensitive that the pressure loss in the low-pressure piping is critical, then wouldn't the refrigerator be affected by turning the furnace or water heater on and off?

The routing of propane distribution lines will determine how close various points are to each other in pressure. That will vary by model, and possibly even by when the trailer was built (and who plumbed it).

It would be interesting to see the actual effect of different flows on the pressure at the refrigerator and at the quick-connect port. The variation will be the combined effect of the regulator's change in output pressure with total flow rate, and the loss of pressure between the regulator and various points in the distribution piping, which depends on the flow rate in each section of piping.

Brian: All very true. The only problem for me is that we don't have a quick connect and without measuring right at the fridge how do you know if you don't have some type of obstruction (debris or kink) in the branch leading to the fridge?

By measuring right at the fridge I could see the direct influence of different appliances on the system pressure. Would this pressure relationship be similar at the quick connect? Probably, but we would need someone with the quick connect and two manometers to set up a test for us. Why not take out the guesswork and just measure right at the fridge where you care about the pressure range being correct?

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by rubicon327

... without measuring right at the fridge how do you know if you don't have some type of obstruction (debris or kink) in the branch leading to the fridge?

You don't, which could be important for general troubleshooting. Of course if you just disconnect the propane line at the refrigerator and gas blows out, a blockage is ruled out. If the only issue is regulator adjustment, this isn't an issue.

Originally Posted by rubicon327

Why not take out the guesswork and just measure right at the fridge where you care about the pressure range being correct?

If someone already has the quick-connect, that's just an easier location... particularly when the testing is repeated later and no pipe thread connections need to be messed with. I don't know why the refrigerator is so special - it uses very little propane, so the furnace and water heater seem much more likely to have problems with low pressure. On the other hand, it's a Dometic...

[Bill and Earline]

We adjusted my original regulator at Niagara last week, all as described in Posting #61.
It was Iowa Dave’s inherited manometer, with Carl W. assisting. I managed to loosen the plug at the fridge with RedDog’s socket—and I won’t be leaving my set at home again.

The first reading with no competing propane appliances, was barely 11, and with two burners lit, the regulator needed to be turned up (in,clockwise) to be a high 11 with the burners on. Otherwise it had slipped below 11.
Haven’t had any challenging temps since then and have mostly been on 120 volt, but fridge is great. It wasn’t really too bad before.
The newly purchased, and not used, H regulator is now part of my traveling stock, if anyone has a malfunction.
Bill