Lithium replacement?

[MyronL]

Took a little while to get it connected. Tomorrow I will hook up the solar panels and we shall see if all is well. just noticed the Battleborn is currently registering 13.1 volts.

[MyronL]

I need some help here. I had the SunSaver Duo SSD25RM PWM with the RM-1 Remote Meter, for my solar panels.

(RECAP)... So I replaced my two 6 volt lead acid batteries with one Lithium Battleborn 100ah LifeP04 battery. I then bought the Morningstar SunSaver MPPT-15L charge controller because it uses the same remote meter, RM-1 (about fifty bucks) as the old PWM controller.

My problem is my RM-1 meter when plugged into the MPPT does not work! Does not respond in any way to pressing the center button for 5 seconds for diagnosis, or pressing both L and R buttons for 2 seconds to clear or re-set. That’s in their manual.

• No explanation for the frozen display that appears.
• What is that “U” shape for?
• Why does the display show 1.36 when my off-brand meter displays 13.6 volts?

• Did I wire it wrong?
• Are jumper connections wrong?
• see that all 3 lights below the display are on. Can't be right.

My solar panels are currently operating and I see my battery has increased from 13.1 early this morning to 13.6 volts 5 hours later. So, I know the MPPT is charging the Lithium. It just is not working with the RM-1. I need it to work.

Sent them (Morningstar) my cry for help.

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by alanmalk

The particular one mentioned in the quote above appears to have a minimum input voltage of 16V, per the illustration.

That's the minimum input voltage for the "24/12" (nominally 24 V input, nominally 12 V output) version, not the desired "12/12" version. There's an error in the illustration of the Amazon listing.

Originally Posted by alanmalk

... the 30A output sounds nice for fast charging.

I agree, the 30-amp (roughly... it depends on voltages) size is the most appropriate.

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by MyronL

I need some help here...

That makes no sense to me, having read the manual, so I would try another cable, and try this procedure from the manual:

The buttons do not work, or work intermittently.
1. Disconnect the meter cable and remove the 3 philips screws that secure the back cover.
2. Remove the back cover and circuit board from the faceplate.
3. Inspect the button contacts, clean dirt and debris with a damp cloth.
4. Clean the gold button contacts on the PCB with alcohol and a cotton swap. Allow alcohol
to try and reassemble.

[Iowa Dave]

We don’t use much electricity when camping. The dual six volts and the Escape “provided”
controller works very well for us. I used to think I should have the most powerful of whatever. Now I just go with the flow. Works for us. We only take phones while camping, no laptops,
Books, big monitors. Though I like music, I rarely play any when camping. And I can’t tell anyone the last time I watched a TV or used a blue ray player though we have them. I’d rather set out under the awning and watch the world go by. It’s quite a show.
Iowa Dave

[John in Santa Cruz]

Originally Posted by Iowa Dave

We don’t use much electricity when camping. The dual six volts and the Escape “provided”
controller works very well for us. I used to think I should have the most powerful of whatever. Now I just go with the flow. Works for us. We only take phones while camping, no laptops,
Books, big monitors. Though I like music, I rarely play any when camping. And I can’t tell anyone the last time I watched a TV or used a blue ray player though we have them. I’d rather set out under the awning and watch the world go by. It’s quite a show.
Iowa Dave

THAT!

ok, we use a LITTLE more power than what you said, but not much, really.... I have a portable 300W inverter, that I jack into a powerpole connector so we can charge my wife's laptop (90 watt *max*), or a few other things that have AC only chargers... I have a tablet in addition to my phone, but that too is USB C charged... no TV camping, but we *might* watch a movie on a rainy evening on the tablet or laptop, if we remembered to load any. I do generally bring a bluetooth speaker, so I can play soft acoustic music via spotify or whatever, and if its the Strawberry Music Festival, I have a solar powered car stereo in a box with a 20AH 12v SLA battery that runs a pair of outdoor speakers, to play the festival pirate FM station, Hog Ranch Radio, as they broadcast the whole fest live, so we can listen while in camp. I even turn it up pretty loud if the performer is good, but I'm too lazy to make it to the main stage.

new thing to charge is our ebikes, the 300W inverter handles that nicely as long as I do one at a time (I think the chargers are 200 watts for each one, they have different battery packs and different chargers as both are home brews).

the stock 2014 160W solar panel has never let us down, if we're camping out in the open the GC2 batteries are usually fully charged by the time I wake up (the solar stereo gets charged off my renogy 100W suitcase that I'd bought for our old Casita 16).

[MyronL]

I thought something was wrong with my 100 watt solar panel not seeming to do the job with the new MPPT. After a full day of full sun my voltage display clearly wasn't right. Then I found those fancy (industry standard?) 10 gauge wire connectors I was using was not fully snapped into place like I thought. No amount of push made one end snap in place. I also very much disliked the difficulty in un-sapping the other two parts. Quick connectors they are not. Cut those connectors off. Went to auto zone yesterday and bought a package of their simple old school connectors.

Today, full sun the last 4½ hours, my reading is now a very healthy 14.2 volts.

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by MyronL

... Then I found those fancy (industry standard?) 10 gauge wire connectors I was using was not fully snapped into place like I thought. No amount of push made one end snap in place. I also very much disliked the difficulty in un-sapping the other two parts. Quick connectors they are not...

The Stäubli MC4 connectors are not really an industry standard, but other manufacturers nearly copy them. Off-brand imitations may not work as well, mixing brands probably doesn't work well, and even the genuine ones are certainly not intended to be frequently disconnected and reconnected. I think they are really intended just to allow a one-time plug-in installation, and are supposed to be disconnected with a tool. They certainly shouldn't be disconnected while current is flowing.

[MyronL]

Remote display problem is solved. MorningStar technical specialist Chris Mitchalak replied to my email with the fix. It was Dip switch #4 that needed to be in the down (off) position. All now good.

[Iowa Dave]

Originally Posted by MyronL

Remote display problem is solved. MorningStar technical specialist Chris Mitchalak replied to my email with the fix. It was Dip switch #4 that needed to be in the down (off) position. All now good.

Them dip switches are like bad grounds, they will mess you up. They got me a couple times on the go power controller too. Glad you’re going strong now.
Iowa “Reddy Kilowatt” Dave