Taking a high-mileage Tacoma to Alaska. Bad idea?

[Mike Lewis]

My trailer fridge draws 14 amps on 12V. Wow!

I have thick AWG 6 wiring going from my alternator to the B2B charger in the trailer, but I screwed up by getting a B2B charger that is too small-- 30 amps. I should have gotten one that is twice as big, at least.

[Radar1]

Originally Posted by Mike Lewis

My trailer fridge draws 14 amps on 12V. Wow!

I have thick AWG 6 wiring going from my alternator to the B2B charger in the trailer, but I screwed up by getting a B2B charger that is too small-- 30 amps. I should have gotten one that is twice as big, at least.

I like how Karl explains the DC function of the fridge in the Escape videoes; "DC stands for Dead Car".

[Centex]

Originally Posted by Mike Lewis

.... I have thick AWG 6 wiring going from my alternator to the B2B charger in the trailer ....

Mike, did you find a 7-pin connector plug/cable for the trailer that has a 6 AWG wire on the +12V blade and ground, or did you fabricate one from scratch using a 'bare' connector rated for that 30A+ current?

Parts sources / links appreciated in either case, Thanks!

(I've not dug deep but haven't seen any pre-fabricated / molded trailer 7-pin connector/cables with larger than 10 AWG on those pins)

[Brian B-P]

Yes, there are other loads from the trailer, but the concern expressed was with specifically with running the refrigerator.

Lights are a continual load when they are on, and that can be a few amps; brakes are used so intermittently that what they take (which is only a maximum of 12 amps and normally much less) is irrelevant to alternator load.

Originally Posted by brroberts

Also most fridges running directly on 12v exceed the 10 amps you mention. Many fall between 20 and 60 amps on 12v depending on a number of factors.

No, a refrigerator in a travel trailer like an Escape will never draw anything close to 60 amps... that's 720 watts at 12 volts. The larger absorption refrigerator models don't even offer 12 V DC operation, because it is assumed that no one wants a high DC load. The 12 V DC heating element in the models used in Escapes draw less than 200 watts, and in the smaller models much less; the 120 AC V element usually runs higher power (which is why they cool better on AC power).

[Effie]

The 6 cu fridge in my 19 draw about 23 amp running on 12v.

[brroberts]

There are RV fridges that pull high amperage. I figured the 6cuft was in the 20-25 amp range. I don’t think new LED lights are much of a factor, but brakes can pull loads that matter, but yes they are not constant like lights or a fridge. I know what I have seen and measured over the years. My truck has 12ga wiring to the trailer connector, and trailers I’ve owned have had 14-10ga wiring for charging. There are times when it is simply too far and or to small for what is needed. I could run heavier wiring, but with the last alternator being larger, improved fridges, and rooftop solar, I don’t expect it to be a future issue when I get the new trailer.

[Doug2000]

Originally Posted by Mike Lewis

I inherited my father's little 2005 Tacoma when he died in 2006. I drove it for several years. It was a four-cylinder, manual transmission and was a great daily driver, but useless for towing-- it wouldn't pull the hat off your head.

So I needed a tow vehicle when I bought my 2014 Escape. I did something I regret now: I traded in the 2005 Taco and got almost nothing for it when I bought the 2013. I didn't really consider keeping it because I couldn't justify in my mind having two trucks, and I was unsure if my finances in retirement would allow me to maintain two vehicles. If I had it to do over, I think I would have kept the older Tacoma as a daily driver and bought a Tundra for towing. Duh.

I have a 2019 Tundra 4x4 SR5 Plus Double Cab 4.6L (Lexus Motor) that I only paid $25K US ($34K CAD at the time). What a deal, it was actually less than I paid for the Tacoma in 2008. It's only the small motor but tows the Escape 19 well.

The only issues with the Tacoma that come to mind. Have you checked your leaf springs, I had one break, it was later covered by a recall, I was reimbursed. Have you changed your front calipers, they are 4 piston and tend to seize up. Have you done your front wheel bearings? My friend had to have both done after the truck sat for a 3 months while he recuperated from a broken leg. Other than that, the second generation of Tacomas are the best trucks for the money.

[Mike Lewis]

Originally Posted by Centex

Mike, did you find a 7-pin connector plug/cable for the trailer that has a 6 AWG wire on the +12V blade and ground, or did you fabricate one from scratch using a 'bare' connector rated for that 30A+ current?

Parts sources / links appreciated in either case, Thanks!

I bypassed the 7-pin plug and ran a separate circuit from the Tacoma's engine compartment to the trailer's battery compartment. I used heavy-duty Powerpole connectors for the plug, essentially creating a second umbilical from the trailer to the truck. I used flexible plastic conduit from the truck's engine compartment to the rear bumper, and another length inside the trailer's frame on the left side (the right side has an obstruction) then across to the battery compartment. I ran the AWG 6 wire through the conduit.



My only screw-up was using a 30A B2B charger, which is too small. I'll look up part numbers, etc and post them.

[Mike Lewis]

Wire and connectors for second circuit to trailer:


From Powerwerx:
- SB50 SB Series 50 Amp Anderson Powerpole Kit (Color:
Yellow, Gauge: 6) SKU: SB50-06-YEL $2.96 4 total $11.84

- SB50 Environmental Boot with Cover, Source Side
SKU: 3-6055P2 $3.69 2 total $7.38

- Corrosion Proof Safety Boot for SB50 Amp Housings
SKU: Boot-SB50 $3.99 2 total $7.98

- Dust Cover for SB50 SB Series 50 Amp Housings
SKU: DUST-SB50 $3.49, 4 total $13.96

I got the wire from Amazon:
- Ancor 112005 Marine Grade Electrical Tinned Copper Battery Cable (6-Gauge, Black, 50-Feet) $71.14

- Ancor Marine Grade Primary Wire and Battery Cable (Red, 50 Feet, 6 AWG) $67.77

As you can see, that wire is expensive, and I bought extra plug parts. I also used large shrink-tube when making my "plug". I got mine when I visited Skycraft in Orlando, along with a sleeve for the wire in the umbilical. I don't know where to find that online; an electronics supply house would be handy.

[Mike Lewis]

I also used a large fuse holder in the engine compartment that I got from a NAPA auto supply. NAPA has large-gauge wire stuff; check them out.

[brroberts]

Mike, that's a great way to do it. For me, I'd not go larger than a 30 amp DC charger given my needs, but others may have different needs. I've thought about doing this exact thing, but I can get an alternator with lifetime warranty for much less. That's why I'm on the third alternator. It's cheaper, and my alternator is pretty easy to change. I bought the first replacement in Sunshine, AK in 2010, and have replaced it twice since for no charge. I'm cheap!

In my Auto, RV, and Marine experience, marine grade wire is never wasted money. Too me that's good value for anything you want good current, voltage and grounding that is for long life. Everything except my house and barn gets marine wire.

[Venture4th]

I am a geologist who has worked Alaska and Yukon since 1975. You have received good advice on the mechanicals.

There are lots of tow trucks and good garages along the Alaska Highway. My only emphasis is that you get good new tires like the ones you have now and get TWO spare tires each for the Tacoma AND your trailer. Keep your speed down and you will be fine.

Get a Wilson cell phone booster for your vehicle to improve fringe reception/transmission.

[ericbirk]

I have a 26 year old Land Cruiser that 9nly comes out to climb mountains. 2 years ago I did a solo vehicle trip that included 5 days of trail only crossing Washington state. By the time I got home I had put 4500km on it in just over 2 weeks.

You know the vehicle, it's maintained, AND it's a Toyota.

Throw some decent AT's on it for better luncture resistance and go for it!

[dlakeman]

Originally Posted by John in Santa Cruz

ah, a few things I might have a mechanic check out before such a trip...

1) when was the automatic transmission last flushed and new filters? or if its a manual, has the transmission oil ever been changed? if not, might be a good thing to do, will help the long term longetivity if nothing else.

2) differential(s), if its never been done, changing the differential gear oil at 200K+ miles is a good long term preventive thing.

3) inspect the timing chain and its tensioner and guides, if its still all in good shape, leave it alone, otherwise replace the timing chain(s), guides, and tensioner. again if this has already been done, you're undoubtably good to go, and a 1GR-FE engine /should/ go past 250K miles on its original chains and stuff, but if it breaks on the road, your whole engine can grenade.

4) check/inspect the driveshaft U joints, driveshaft center bearing(if any, I forget if a tacoma has one), and all the front suspension ball joints, tie rod ends, steering linkage, etc.

John is right on.

[ejfranz]

As long as you have LT tires on your truck, you will be fine. The gravel roads up there are in good shape, better than many of the FSRs in BC. Take it easy on the paved roads as they suffer from frost heaves any can quickly get you into trouble especially when pulling a trailer or 5er.

[Stkshftr]

Hi Mike,
I haven't been on the forum for some time, but came across this thread this morning. My wife and I went up to Fairbanks in '18 and its a lot different from when we first went up in '76. If you go the Alcan the road is well maintained and mostly paved. The few gravel stretches we encountered were under construction and passable, but could be rough. Travel assistance will be less available then most places in the states, but short of breaking an axle or something like that you should be OK. If you go up the Cassiar Highway (a bit shorter to AK), more of the road will be gravel and pockets of civilization fewer and far between. Beautiful travel either way.

As far as your risk assessment concerning truck/trailer; I went up in a 6 month old F150 pulling a spanking new 21 Escape picked up along the way (I had no prior trailer experience). The truck was a 4x4 with gears for pulling, bash plates and a full sized spare (truck was made for this kind of trip including a 36 gal tank). I took a generator that ran off of LP (never used it) plus a lot of other stuff to cover me. No doubt, if I hadn't had it, something would have gone wrong.

Make sure you get a current copy of the Mile Post. It is an essential travel tool up there and in western Canada. And take your time. We travelled from western NY State and took 7+ weeks for the trip (with 2 weeks in Fairbanks with relatives). If you hit AK in late May, you may see snow. Fairbanks and Anchorage will both have well equipped car dealerships representing most of the major brands, so service there won't be a problem. Know that roads in AK run the gamut. The fact that car rental places there disallow use of their vehicles on certain highways speaks to that (especially the Denali Highway - all gravel and difficult to travel, even in the best of times). Frost heaves and shifting pavement are common issues so watch for them.

Judging from your frequent posts on this forum, I suspect you are a seasoned traveler. As you know, there's no such thing as no risk travel. And known risks you can mitigate to some degree. I would suggest you take it easy with the truck you have, take what you think you need and enjoy the trip. Almost forgot; take a couple of no balance credit cards - AK isn't cheap.

Marv

[Old Fulica]

Before going to Alaska I would check on getting across the Canadian border which is closed to non-essential traffic. It may be opened when you want to leave but I wouldn't count on it.

[suncoastdancers]

Returned from a trip to the Yukon last September. Now it is closed to all non-residents, Canadians as well as Americans.

I would not count on the international border opening before September 2021. Now it is essential traffic only - either you are moving to work or hauling essential goods. A holiday trip to Alaska is not considered essential. At this time, all provincial and territorial parks are closed to US travellers regardless. And it is strictly enforced.

A cautionary word of advice - have good emergency towing insurance, one that has unlimited mileage and includes both your trailer and vehicle. Years back a friend's motorhome broke down in Dease Lake BC. It had to be towed to Whitehorse for repairs. That was 640 km (390 miles).

Originally Posted by Old Fulica

Before going to Alaska I would check on getting across the Canadian border which is closed to non-essential traffic. It may be opened when you want to leave but I wouldn't count on it.

[gypsysouls]

Mike:
In summer 2019 we pulled our Casita 17 SD to Alaska from North Carolina behind a 2002 RWD Chevy Tahoe with about 215,000 miles at time of departure. We put 13,600 miles on it during the 7 -week trip.

We had owned the Tahoe for about 4 years and it had proved to be extremely reliable so we had no hesitation taking it on that rather grueling trip.

I did a lot of preventative work on it before leaving. Belts and hoses, spark plugs and plug wires, belt tensioners and idler pulley. We also took 2 spares for the TV and trailer, neither of which we had to use (probably just lucky considering all the road construction and frost heaves).

If your Tacoma has been a reliable machine, I would not let the higher miles be a deterrent to taking it. Best of luck to you for a great trip.

Don

[thumper-tx]

It’s a Tacoma, go for it!