2020 Escape 19 build discussion

[NEWYORKHILLBILLY]

Originally Posted by TTMartin

My build sheet is signed, here is the final version.

Maple wood, Mill Creek Axle #4182 flooring, Silver Shalestone #9307-58 Formica with Black trim, Chinchilla Ultra Leather #6009 fabric, Battleship Gray #870 graphics.

Fridge (6 Cubic Foot)
Foot Flush Toilet
Toilet Shut Off Valve
Exterior Shower Passenger Side
Dual 6V Batteries Escape Supplied
190W Solar Panel with Charge Controller
Surge Protector
Removable Power Cord
Air Conditioner with Digital Thermostat (Dometic 11,000 BTU)
Keyless Door Lock
TV/Cable Ready with 120V Outlet
Window in Bathroom (Opening, Framed, Thermal)
Window in Kitchen (Opening, Framed, Thermal)
High Lift Axle
Double Step Entry Step
Cabinet Door at End of Bench
Exterior Propane Quick Connect with 12' Propane Hose and Adapter
Storage Box
Springfield Marine Pedestal for Dinette Table Slider Installed
One additional 12 volt outlet on bed side of kitchen / bed wall
Two additional Exterior LED lights front and rear
AMBER lens on all four exterior lights
Drawer under Wardrobe Closet
One Wardrobe shelf centered, I will add more adjustable shelves
Two 8 1/2" x 18" counter top extensions one on each of the bedroom walls
Full Wrap on Cushions and 3 additional yards of fabric
DO NOT INSTALL Solar and EMS remote displays leave in cabinet
DO NOT INSTALL handles on doors beneath fridge, bed, and dinette (may use doors as drawer fronts)
Stainless Steel Backsplash
Heat Pads Ready - run wires to beneath trailer and coil, do toggles etc inside trailer like normal
12V Drop - inside DS OH cabinet beside fridge wired to stereo 12V dedicated line
Two 8' pieces of Maple outside corner trim
One 4'x4' sheet of Maple paneling
Additional 13"x15" counter extension - DO NOT INSTALL to be used as drop leaf at 'pointy end' of dinette table
REINFORCE W1 and W5 - W1 (kitchen / bed) required for bedside counter extension, W5 (bathroom wall facing door), to allow grab rail in the bathroom in the future.
MODIFY KITCHEN CABINET under cooktop to accommodate Cx provided Convection Oven.
Two Filled Propane Tanks
X - Chocks

Thanks for everyone's input, pictures, and measurements, it was all a lot of help.

congratulations! looks like you put enough thought into it the options you should be very happy. It crazy how exciting this is. I think I put more thought into my build that I ever have on any purchase. so are you having the convection oven installer or just prewired?When you pickup date?

[TTMartin]

Originally Posted by NEWYORKHILLBILLY

congratulations! looks like you put enough thought into it the options you should be very happy. It crazy how exciting this is. I think I put more thought into my build that I ever have on any purchase. so are you having the convection oven installer or just prewired?When you pickup date?

Modifying the cabinet for the larger size of a Convection Microwave than the ETI supplied Microwave, and an outlet installed. ETI does not have a Convection Microwave that they install.

[cpaharley2008]

No extra 12v in dinette area or under bed for illumination? So you are going with framed windows, someone recently did that but got frameless in back because they open.

[TTMartin]

Originally Posted by cpaharley2008

No extra 12v in dinette area or under bed for illumination? So you are going with framed windows, someone recently did that but got frameless in back because they open.

12 volt outlet and counter extension next to bed for CPAP machine.

I prefer the framed windows, I don't think frameless look better since they are not flush and kind of stick out. The emergency exit window opens awning style for ventilation in the rain. Some frameless windows have worked open due to vibration and torn off due to winds at highway speeds. Plus, I'm getting the manual awning so the awning supports interferes with the frameless windows.

Edit: Didn't feel the need for the rear window to open, since the framed window on one side opens further than a frameless one would, and the emergency exit window also has a wide opening. Plus, no screen to look through is preferred by my wife since her eyes focus on screens.

[NEWYORKHILLBILLY]

Originally Posted by TTMartin

12 volt outlet and counter extension next to bed for CPAP machine.

I prefer the framed windows, I don't think frameless look better since they are not flush and kind of stick out. The emergency exit window opens awning style for ventilation in the rain. Some frameless windows have worked open due to vibration and torn off due to winds at highway speeds. Plus, I'm getting the manual awning so the awning supports interferes with the frameless windows.

Edit: Didn't feel the need for the rear window to open, since the framed window on one side opens further than a frameless one would, and the emergency exit window also has a wide opening. Plus, no screen to look through is preferred by my wife since her eyes focus on screens.

I found a great place for the CPAP machine . I am putting it in the upper cabinet above bed. just open cabinet drop down mask and air line. I done this in my Casita and it worked great. with the air hose coming from above you never get tangled . I asked escape to put a 12 volt outlet inside cabinet but they would no do that. I ended up just getting a 12 volt drop in there.I will add a 12 volt outlet myself. I just hoping my 12 volt drop will be able to take the amp draw along with the other things they put on the circuit. If not I will have to run some wire from the fuse box.

[TTMartin]

Originally Posted by NEWYORKHILLBILLY

I found a great place for the CPAP machine . I am putting it in the upper cabinet above bed. just open cabinet drop down mask and air line. I done this in my Casita and it worked great. with the air hose coming from above you never get tangled . I asked escape to put a 12 volt outlet inside cabinet but they would no do that. I ended up just getting a 12 volt drop in there.I will add a 12 volt outlet myself. I just hoping my 12 volt drop will be able to take the amp draw along with the other things they put on the circuit. If not I will have to run some wire from the fuse box.

Since I'm not getting the Stereo, that is why I had them do my 12 volt drop using the Stereo circuit. The Stereo Power line is a dedicated line with its own fuse. That way my 12 volt drop in (fridge side) the overhead cabinet will be on a dedicated line. I plan on using for a bus style fan, but, same concern. Since the Stereo power line is already a standard circuit in their wiring it wasn't a problem when I asked for them to use that line as my 12 volt drop.

[TTMartin]

Originally Posted by cpaharley2008

No extra 12v in dinette area or under bed for illumination?

I use light and motion sensing battery operated LED lights in those places currently and they work great, so I'll keep using those.

These are the two types I've purchased. I like the round ones better, but, they don't fit as well in all places.



AMIR Motion Sensor Lights, Battery-Powered LED Night Lights, Stick-Anywhere Closet Lights Stair Lights, Wall Lights for Hallway, Bathroom, Bedroom, Kitchen etc



AMIR Motion Sensor Lights, 10-LED DIY Stick-on Anywhere Portable Wireless Closet Light, Safe Lights for Hallway, Stairway, Bedroom

One comment on these lights is they are light and motion sensing. When I got the first ones I thought they were defective because they didn't turn on when I put the batteries in. It wasn't until I put them in a dark place and had motion that they turned on.

I have one by the entry door on my current trailer, that way it turns on as you walk in. My current trailer doesn't have the master switch by the door like Escape does, so it may not be as convenient there.

They work great as cabinet lights, because that is dark enough for them to come on, and they do almost as soon as you open the cabinet door.

[cpaharley2008]

Those are good in cabinets where they are accessible, but crawling under the bed to replace batteries gets old. I have installed at least 2 lights under the E19 bed with switches at the exterior hatch and inside doors. In the e21 bed again 2 12 lights, one switched at hatch and one by the interior door. All hardwired to eliminate battery changes. The storage areas is where extra lights are needed as the ceiling o/h lights are bright enough to illuminate the interior o/h contents.

[TTMartin]

Originally Posted by cpaharley2008

Those are good in cabinets where they are accessible, but crawling under the bed to replace batteries gets old. I have installed at least 2 lights under the E19 bed with switches at the exterior hatch and inside doors. In the e21 bed again 2 12 lights, one switched at hatch and one by the interior door. All hardwired to eliminate battery changes. The storage areas is where extra lights are needed as the ceiling o/h lights are bright enough to illuminate the interior o/h contents.

Thanks for the suggestion. I may do that too. It shouldn't be too hard to find a 12 volt circuit to tap into for some LED lights.

[caras]

We are completing our build sheet and that is the fridge/micro options we are going with. Question: Did you add the slide out drawers under the bed and dinette yourself or was that an upgrade from Escape? If you did it yourself, what did you use?

[TTMartin]

Originally Posted by caras

We are completing our build sheet and that is the fridge/micro options we are going with. Question: Did you add the slide out drawers under the bed and dinette yourself or was that an upgrade from Escape? If you did it yourself, what did you use?

He added them himself (see below). I had Escape skip adding the handles to the doors so I could use them as drawer fronts, and in the case of the under fridge one, it keeps the under bed door from opening fully.

Originally Posted by Greg A

Sorry, just got over to storage today. Effie’s measurements are same as ours height of opening is 11.5 x 18.5 width.

Pics of drawers added under ps dinette with optional door and under bed.

Originally Posted by TTMartin

Thank you! Did you make the drawers yourself? What slides did you use for the long under bed drawers?

Originally Posted by Greg A

Dovetail, maple drawers got at:https://www.cabinetdoorworld.com/dovetail-drawer-boxes/

Under mount PS side slides got at Rockler*https://www.rockler.com/retail/store...mpaign=phoenix

The underbed slides were 500lb rated and I believe these are the ones I got:https://www.ovisonline.com/36-Drawer...eavy-Duty.aspx
I ended up using them under mount which allowed me to go with wider drawers.

Had about $375 into it with all three custom drawers and slides.
They definitely raise the level of usability of the 19 significantly.

[TTMartin]

Originally Posted by TTMartin

We currently own 17 year old Trail Lite Bantam 19 Hybrid that has typical soft roof and floor issues.

Our Trail Lite Bantam 19 Hybrid sold on Facebook Marketplace. Literally within 10 minutes of listing it I had a dozen inquires. The first to contact me lived about 8 miles away and came right over paid cash and trailer was gone less than an hour after listing it.

I priced it right and took less than half of that, but, I got more than I would have if I traded it into a dealer. I think I got a little less than a could have gotten, but, a bird in the hand as they say. Also, with Covid 19 not having to show it to a bunch of people was a benefit too.

RV sales are definitely hot right now. Now we're all set for when our 2020 Escape 19 is ready for pick up.

[Radar1]

We are just about ready to finish our build sheet for our Escape 19. Although I think we could do fine with the 17B, especially since we're moving up from a 16' Scamp with smaller bed and holding tanks, having the extra room in the 19 over the 17B and having access to a 4 person dinette has pushed my thoughts closer to the 19. I will probably miss the simplicity and smallness of a smaller single axle trailer, we have used the Scamp on 3-4 month long trips and the small size was a plus in some Provincial Parks on the way to Alaska but the 19 will hopefully be more comfortable and let me keep some of our camping gear in the Escape instead of the truck.
Good news is that when I extended our driveway 20 ft a few years ago I was anticipating having a 19' Scamp at the time but the 19' Escape will fill that void nicely.

We won't need the inverters since we don't bring any electric appliances that would need them other than our toaster and we can do that while cooking on the grill.

I went with the frameless on the driver's side only since they would all match (the escape window is already frameless and we prefer the frameless bath window over the half-slider). That way everything on each side will match each other in looks.

5CF fridge is bigger than our Scamp's and we never use everything in that one, so we will get the 5CF and have a pantry above, or carry a microwave at times.

Any thoughts on the drawer under the wardrobe?

OAK
Standard Options:
Fridge (5 Cubic Foot)
Toilet Shut Off Valve
Dual 6V Batteries (Select Option)
190W Solar Panel with Charge Controller
Zamp Solar Port wired to Regulator Note: Only if Solar Panel selected (For portable panels without regulators only)
Removable Power Cord
Air Conditioner with Digital Thermostat (Dometic 11,000 BTU)
Heat Strip for Air Conditioner
TV/Cable Ready with 120V Outlet 12V instead of 110 v (credit 20)
Window in Bathroom (Opening, Frameless, Thermal)
Window in Kitchen (Opening, Framed, Thermal)
High Lift Axle
Exterior Access Hatch (front passenger side)
Cabinet Door at End of Bench
Storage Box (Front of Trailer)
Raise Dinette Benches and Floor 3"

Customized Options:
Exterior 12V/USB Outlet (passenger side, under rear clearance light)
12V Interior Outlet Area 2
Additional Exterior LED Light Location(s) TBD by Customer Front center
Drawer under Wardrobe Closet Haven't decided
Standard Flooring: New Castle Knights
Standard Formica: Mineral Jet
Trim Choice: Black
Standard Fabric: Monroe steel
Graphics Colour: Red

Customized Request (Enter Details) Extra sewer tube
Customized Request (Enter Details) Frameless front driver side window
Customized Request (Enter Details) (X-chocks)

[cpaharley2008]

What about the rear window, frameless opens and framed does not........

[TTMartin]

Originally Posted by Radar1

I went with the frameless on the driver's side only since they would all match (the escape window is already frameless and we prefer the frameless bath window over the half-slider).

The framed emergency exit window opens awning style hinged at the top like a frameless window. That doesn't mean it is a frameless window, or looks like a frameless window.

[TTMartin]

One more showing the framed emergency exit window, except on a 17B

[TTMartin]

Originally Posted by Radar1

Any thoughts on the drawer under the wardrobe?

The drawer in the wardrobe goes into the area that is below the door in the wardrobe if you get the drawer or not doesn't change the size of the door. Without the drawer the bottom of the wardrobe isn't flush with the bottom of the door.

I went with the drawer in the wardrobe.

[Radar1]

Originally Posted by TTMartin

The drawer in the wardrobe goes into the area that is below the door in the wardrobe if you get the drawer or not doesn't change the size of the door. Without the drawer the bottom of the wardrobe isn't flush with the bottom of the door.

I went with the drawer in the wardrobe.

I think I might go with the drawer too, that way if we put any sliding bins in the wardrobe the bottom one won't be sunk too low to open.

[Radar1]

Originally Posted by TTMartin

The framed emergency exit window opens awning style hinged at the top like a frameless window. That doesn't mean it is a frameless window, or looks like a frameless window.

Attachment 48796
Attachment 48797

At least when they are all open they will look similar, hinged at the top.
I like the framed bath window in the illustration, unfortunately the new framed bath window is a sideways slider. They show it in the recent videos.
I like the standard back window that doesn't open, no screen, and no divider. We have never opened the one on our Scamp in 10 years (we actually had to clamp it closed since it would wiggle open sometimes) and just use the side windows for ventilation.

[Radar1]

Originally Posted by cpaharley2008

What about the rear window, frameless opens and framed does not........

I actually prefer the unscreened and undivided standard framed back window.
Thanks for the idea though.
I've actually toured one of your previous campers before, you had sold it to Craig and Josie.
One thing about the 19 vs the 17B, I should have more room for some of that Yuengling Dark Porter next time we go to PA. Can't get it here in GA.