2020 Escape 19 build discussion

[felix2]

Originally Posted by gbaglo

So if somebody knocks on the door at night, you have to go out to open the shade, so you can see who it is, through the window.

Someone posted a product on the forum that allows you to slide a light filter across the window via a long lever accessible through the screen door handle opening, without opening the door.



http://www.zarcor.com/rv_products/rv-door-window-kit/


Looks okay, migh try that.

[TTMartin]

Originally Posted by felix2

Hmmm...coincidentally that 2.5" diff is about the high lift rise...maybe they measured...oh never mind...I'll just keep the single step with my high lift and deal with it via a stepstool if need be. There, that's one less thing to have rattling around in my head.

I went with the high lift and the double step. I boondock and camp at a lot of older campgrounds. The sites often have a slightly raised drive / pad, the ground drops off on either side. So while a single step might be fine on nice level campsites, the double step will be much better in older less pristine campgrounds.

Originally Posted by felix2

Someone posted a product on the forum that allows you to slide a light filter across the window via a long lever accessible through the screen door handle opening, without opening the door.

http://www.zarcor.com/rv_products/rv-door-window-kit/

Looks okay, migh try that.

I had looked at those. One of the things I'm trying to accomplish is going to framed window on the outside of the door to match the rest of my windows. As I recall, that only replaces the interior frame, or maybe not even that just screwing on top of the existing interior frame. So, they don't really do what I want. The shade is only half of the reason I was looking at the Thin Shade.

If someone has frameless window and wants to keep them that Zarcor Shade would definitely be the preferred way to go (provided they fit on the frameless window.

[MarGen]

What is the reason for having Escape not install the solar/EMS remote displays? Are they in an awkward location? Where will you install them?

[tdf-texas]

Originally Posted by MarGen

What is the reason for having Escape not install the solar/EMS remote displays? Are they in an awkward location? Where will you install them?

If you want them installed in a different spot or plan to replace the solar controller with something like the Victron, then you don't have to worry about repairing the hole they were mounted in.

[TTMartin]

Originally Posted by MarGen

What is the reason for having Escape not install the solar/EMS remote displays? Are they in an awkward location? Where will you install them?

The default location in the Escape 19, is under the dinette seat. The idea is that you can see the display looking in the door from outside.

The problem is that means you can't really see them while you're in the trailer without leaning down under the dinette table.

Now that the Solar Charge Controller has Bluetooth, it is less of an issue.

I'm not sure where we will be putting it. I wanted to keep the option open without having to deal with two big holes, in the front of the dinette.

[MarGen]

Thank you both, good to know!

[JoeJoe2]

Looks like the standard water heater is a 12v. The upgrade is the gas and 12v.

[cpaharley2008]

Originally Posted by JoeJoe2

Looks like the standard water heater is a 12v. The upgrade is the gas and 12v.

Propane with 12v controls are standard, optional is 120v heating element.

[TTMartin]

Originally Posted by TTMartin

If possible I'm going to replace the door window with a Thin Shade Complete Window Kit for RV Entry Doors



It is a framed window on the exterior. I also like the idea of a see through door window, and having a privacy and light shade.

Well, I ordered this and it doesn't fit.

[Centex]

Originally Posted by TTMartin

Well, I ordered this and it doesn't fit.

Too small in some dimension or too big?

[TTMartin]

Originally Posted by Centex

Too small in some dimension or too big?

Too big. There is another brand that is smaller.

AP Products 015-201512 Slim Shade

I'm going to try that one, though I'm concerned it might be too small. I'll post if it works.

[JeffreyG]

Originally Posted by TTMartin

Two 8 1/2" x 18" counter top extensions one on each of the bedroom walls

I'd like to hear a bit more about this one, where are you installing these two counter tops?



My wife pointed out that there are not a lot of great places for two people in that bed to place loose items (glasses, phone, keys) etc. when going to bed. We usually have these items on nightstands at home, so I'm curious as to what you are installing.


Also, what are your plans for floor installation (materials, etc)? I'm shying away from the spray on foam due to how it makes any mechanical repairs under the trailer into a nightmare. I might want to insulate the floor, but in a way I can control.

[TTMartin]

Originally Posted by JeffreyG

I'd like to hear a bit more about this one, where are you installing these two counter tops?

They were installed by Escape in the 'standard' locations on the bed side of the kitchen wall and on the bed side of the fridge wall.

Originally Posted by JeffreyG

My wife pointed out that there are not a lot of great places for two people in that bed to place loose items (glasses, phone, keys) etc. when going to bed. We usually have these items on nightstands at home, so I'm curious as to what you are installing.

Sleeping with it open at the head end has been no problem. Sleeping the one at the foot end closed is no problem. I've hit my feet on the brackets when both were open.

We normally sleep with our heads towards the passenger/kitchen side. I got both counter top extensions in case we need to sleep the other way if we're at a place where we can't get level. (Walmart parking lot). I use the one at the headend for a CPAP machine and a nightstand. We have used the foot end stand to set a netbook on it and watch a movie.

Originally Posted by JeffreyG

Also, what are your plans for floor installation (materials, etc)? I'm shying away from the spray on foam due to how it makes any mechanical repairs under the trailer into a nightmare. I might want to insulate the floor, but in a way I can control.

Here is thread on this forum where someone used Pink Foam Board Insulation.

Adding underfloor insulation

I have purchased the Lowes green version of the pink foam, and am waiting to do somethings under the trailer before installing. Don't be tempted to use the less expensive white Styrofoam cooler type insulation boards can absorb water.

Based on theses two YouTube videos:

What's the BEST Glue for XPS FOAM?

BEST GLUE FOR STYROFOAM! Spray Foam Adhesive For Polystyrene

My plan is to use Great Stuff to bond the boards to the bottom of the trailer, fill any voids, and insulate the drain pipes. I've purchased the Great Stuff Pro 14 gun, foam, and cleaning canisters from the second video so I'm ready to go when I can.