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02-24-2023, 11:22 AM
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#1
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2021
Location: St Louis, Missouri
Trailer: 2022 on order
Posts: 32
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Can you confirm location for my solar panel breaker?
I've found the threads on installing a breaker, rather than use the plywood I have currently installed, but want to be sure I'm putting in the right location on my E19. I'd appreciate confirmation from the experts before I cut the cord!
Thanks.
Tom
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02-24-2023, 11:31 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Lanesboro, MN, between Whalan and Fountain, Minnesota
Trailer: 2016 Bigfoot 25RQ - (2018 Escape 5.0 sold)
Posts: 2,174
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Not the wire(s) you pointed. The dual breakers should go between the solar panels and your controller,, not after it leaves your controller to the Wago bus’s. I also put a 30 amp breaker on the hot wire from your controller to the Wago bus. With breakers on each side it’s easy to work on your solar. Some will say, just use the Victron shut off in the Victron app software, but I prefer analog protection over software protection. Either way to protect your panels works though.
Enjoy,
Perry
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02-24-2023, 11:43 AM
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#3
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2021
Location: St Louis, Missouri
Trailer: 2022 on order
Posts: 32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Perry Butler
Not the wire(s) you pointed. The dual breakers should go between the solar panels and your controller,, not after it leaves your controller to the Wago strips. I also put a 30 amp breaker on the hot wire from your controller to the Wago strips.
Enjoy,
Perry
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Thanks, Perry.
This is exactly why I asked. I need to go take another look and see if I can find where that location between the controller and panels would be, as I thought those wires were between the panels and the controller. I assume the Wago strips and hot wires you are mentioning are in the areas I've pointed out in this picture.
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02-24-2023, 12:09 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Naples, New York
Trailer: 2020 Esacpe 19'(Hillbilly Heaven) ETI best named trailer of the year
Posts: 1,204
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I don't see much since in putting a breaker between controller and panels I would just put a switch in one of the wires you pointed out. that way you have a way to shut off the panels in the system. breakers and fuse are designed protect the wire. you panel can't put out more than there rated even if they short out.
as with many things there several ways to do this. I added a switch between the panels and controller. I did confirm with Victron that there was no need for a fuse. I just mounted a switch to plywood and screwed it in.
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02-24-2023, 01:06 PM
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#5
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2021
Location: St Louis, Missouri
Trailer: 2022 on order
Posts: 32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Perry Butler
Not the wire(s) you pointed. The dual breakers should go between the solar panels and your controller,, not after it leaves your controller to the Wago bus’s. I also put a 30 amp breaker on the hot wire from your controller to the Wago bus. With breakers on each side it’s easy to work on your solar. Some will say, just use the Victron shut off in the Victron app software, but I prefer analog protection over software protection. Either way to protect your panels works though.
Enjoy,
Perry
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I just rechecked and, for the life of me, this looks like the place the wires head toward the solar panels. and it seems to be before the wires get to the solar controller. At least in my E19 I can not see where else I can access the wiring in between the panels and the controller.
Any ideas are appreciated.
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02-24-2023, 01:40 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2021
Location: Grand Junction, Colorado
Trailer: 2022 Escape 17A, 2021 F-150 3.5L Ecoboost
Posts: 261
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TWebs46
I just rechecked and, for the life of me, this looks like the place the wires head toward the solar panels. and it seems to be before the wires get to the solar controller. At least in my E19 I can not see where else I can access the wiring in between the panels and the controller.
Any ideas are appreciated.
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Perry is very knowledgeably about solar so he might need to chime in. Your photo has the charge controller, solar panel wires, and zamp port connected to the Wago connectors. If you install the breaker where you suggested, only your roof top solar would be disconnected. What Perry suggested would disconnect all possible solar charging and protect the controller.
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02-24-2023, 01:45 PM
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#7
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2021
Location: St Louis, Missouri
Trailer: 2022 on order
Posts: 32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SRS
Perry is very knowledgeably about solar so he might need to chime in. Your photo has the charge controller, solar panel wires, and zamp port connected to the Wago connectors. If you install the breaker where you suggested, only your roof top solar would be disconnected. What Perry suggested would disconnect all possible solar charging and protect the controller.
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Thanks very much. Now I'm understanding a bit more. So, it seems that if I am not using a suitcase panel, cutting off input from the roof top solar will at least accomplish the same purpose as having the plywood on my panels, as I do now.
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02-24-2023, 01:49 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2021
Location: Grand Junction, Colorado
Trailer: 2022 Escape 17A, 2021 F-150 3.5L Ecoboost
Posts: 261
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NEWYORKHILLBILLY
I don't see much since in putting a breaker between controller and panels I would just put a switch in one of the wires you pointed out. that way you have a way to shut off the panels in the system. breakers and fuse are designed protect the wire. you panel can't put out more than there rated even if they short out.
as with many things there several ways to do this. I added a switch between the panels and controller. I did confirm with Victron that there was no need for a fuse. I just mounted a switch to plywood and screwed it in.
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Not an expert but you might want to look at this Explorists Life video which explains why the dual breaker may be a better option.
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02-24-2023, 01:54 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2021
Location: Grand Junction, Colorado
Trailer: 2022 Escape 17A, 2021 F-150 3.5L Ecoboost
Posts: 261
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TWebs46
Thanks very much. Now I'm understanding a bit more. So, it seems that if I am not using a suitcase panel, cutting off input from the roof top solar will at least accomplish the same purpose as having the plywood on my panels, as I do now.
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Yes, that's why I did it. My trailer came with the zamp port not wired to the controller and I left it that way. I got tired of covering my panel.
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02-24-2023, 02:20 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Naples, New York
Trailer: 2020 Esacpe 19'(Hillbilly Heaven) ETI best named trailer of the year
Posts: 1,204
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SRS
Not an expert but you might want to look at this Explorists Life video which explains why the dual breaker may be a better option.
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The dc breakers sure is a good way to get the disconnect. The NEC codes he refers to are for systems in building over 30 volts. If the Dc disconnect was required by code, then ETI would have to install it at the factory. I certainly not saying that the DC breaker is a bad idea, but there several ways to get a disconnect. plywood over panels, switch, breaker, fuse. simple wire disconnection.
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02-24-2023, 02:35 PM
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#11
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2021
Location: St Louis, Missouri
Trailer: 2022 on order
Posts: 32
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Yes, I watched the video and it makes more sense now. I do have the dual breaker.
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02-24-2023, 03:14 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2021
Location: Grand Junction, Colorado
Trailer: 2022 Escape 17A, 2021 F-150 3.5L Ecoboost
Posts: 261
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NEWYORKHILLBILLY
The dc breakers sure is a good way to get the disconnect. The NEC codes he refers to are for systems in building over 30 volts. If the Dc disconnect was required by code, then ETI would have to install it at the factory. I certainly not saying that the DC breaker is a bad idea, but there several ways to get a disconnect. plywood over panels, switch, breaker, fuse. simple wire disconnection.
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I agree that there are numerous devices that could be used for a DC disconnect. I was simply responding to your question. While the code is for buildings, the video is specifically about RV systems. And one could argue that trailers are simply a mobile building. You're install of the Blue Sea switch is nicely done and well laid out. I certainly wouldn't suggest you change it. Personally, I think ETI should install some type of solar disconnect on all their trailers. Especially since lots of us find we need to do work on our trailers electrical systems to correct problems they created. Just to be clear, I really like our Escape and have no regrets purchasing it. But I've also had to fix a few things.
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02-25-2023, 09:00 AM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Lanesboro, MN, between Whalan and Fountain, Minnesota
Trailer: 2016 Bigfoot 25RQ - (2018 Escape 5.0 sold)
Posts: 2,174
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There are two wires with yellow markings that are connected to the “PV” ports on your Victron 100/20 controller on one end and to the Wago bus on the other. Place your breakers nearby in a location that is convenient to access. Remove the wires at the Wago and connect them to your breakers. Use another set of wires to go from your breakers to the Wago bus.
I would also put a single breaker between the hot (red) wire from the “BATT” port of your Victron controller, to easily cut power when working on your Victron. It’s just good practice to have both sides protected. Mine is about 12” from the controller. I use either a Busman or a Zookoto breaker. The breaker should be larger than the output of your Victron controller and is used for overvoltage from your main circuit.
If I wrote this correctly (I’m actually dyslexic) placing your breakers should be Eazy Peazy.
Only our rooftop panels are connected with a dual breaker. I just have the portable turned away from the sun when I connect it to the SAE (Zamp port reversed) port on the side of our camper.
There is a second set of smaller wires going to the Wago bus. Do you have a portable and does your portable have it’s own controller? If that second set is for a portable without a controller don’t use it, since it can overcharge your batteries. All solar panels should go to a controller to monitor the power before going to the batteries.
Enjoy,
Perry
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02-25-2023, 10:01 AM
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#14
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2021
Location: St Louis, Missouri
Trailer: 2022 on order
Posts: 32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Perry Butler
There are two wires with yellow markings that are connected to the “PV” ports on your Victron 100/20 controller on one end and to the Wago bus on the other. Place your breakers nearby in a location that is convenient to access. Remove the wires at the Wago and connect them to your breakers. Use another set of wires to go from your breakers to the Wago bus.
I would also put a single breaker between the hot (red) wire from the “BATT” port of your Victron controller, to easily cut power when working on your Victron. It’s just good practice to have both sides protected. Mine is about 12” from the controller. I use either a Busman or a Zookoto breaker. The breaker should be larger than the output of your Victron controller and is used for overvoltage from your main circuit.
If I wrote this correctly (I’m actually dyslexic) placing your breakers should be Eazy Peazy.
Only our rooftop panels are connected with a dual breaker. I just have the portable turned away from the sun when I connect it to the SAE (Zamp port reversed) port on the side of our camper.
There is a second set of smaller wires going to the Wago bus. Do you have a portable and does your portable have it’s own controller? If that second set is for a portable without a controller don’t use it, since it can overcharge your batteries. All solar panels should go to a controller to monitor the power before going to the batteries.
Enjoy,
Perry
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Thanks, Perry, for this very clear explanation; especially with the links to the breakers.
I do not yet have a suitcase panel but plan to get one later this Spring. It will be from Renogy without the controller.
I really appreciate you going to the trouble. Yes, it looks like I could add these quite easily.
Tom
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02-25-2023, 12:27 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2021
Location: Grand Junction, Colorado
Trailer: 2022 Escape 17A, 2021 F-150 3.5L Ecoboost
Posts: 261
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TWebs46
Thanks, Perry, for this very clear explanation; especially with the links to the breakers.
I do not yet have a suitcase panel but plan to get one later this Spring. It will be from Renogy without the controller.
I really appreciate you going to the trouble. Yes, it looks like I could add these quite easily.
Tom
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Perry has way more knowledge about solar than I and some very good advice. He may have confused my photo with the breaker box with yours because both your zamp port wires and roof solar go into the wago connectors then the third set go to the Victron controller. So, the zamp and roof solar are sharing the Victron controller and your portable should NOT have a controller. I've attached an edited copy of your image from post #1 identifying the wires. Sorry for the low quality photo edit.
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02-25-2023, 04:05 PM
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#16
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2021
Location: St Louis, Missouri
Trailer: 2022 on order
Posts: 32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SRS
Perry has way more knowledge about solar than I and some very good advice. He may have confused my photo with the breaker box with yours because both your zamp port wires and roof solar go into the wago connectors then the third set go to the Victron controller. So, the zamp and roof solar are sharing the Victron controller and your portable should NOT have a controller. I've attached an edited copy of your image from post #1 identifying the wires. Sorry for the low quality photo edit.
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Yes! This is how I installed it. And it works perfectly. Thanks for your help and everyone else who did so.
Tom
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02-26-2023, 03:23 PM
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#17
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2020
Location: CenTex, Texas
Trailer: 2022 E19
Posts: 621
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TWebs46
I've found the threads on installing a breaker, rather than use the plywood I have currently installed, but want to be sure I'm putting in the right location on my E19. I'd appreciate confirmation from the experts before I cut the cord!
Thanks.
Tom
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EDIT - whoops - too late! ( or not)
While you are at it, consider moving all of that off the top of the black tank ........really opens up the storage.
And yes, I need to add a solar disconnect as well.
See thread here: https://www.escapeforum.org/forums/f...9-23895-2.html
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02-26-2023, 03:31 PM
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#18
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2021
Location: St Louis, Missouri
Trailer: 2022 on order
Posts: 32
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This is pretty slick! (I'm not that ambitious!)
Quote:
Originally Posted by 7Gentex
EDIT - whoops - too late! ( or not)
While you are at it, consider moving all of that off the top of the black tank ........really opens up the storage.
And yes, I need to add a solar disconnect as well.
See thread here: https://www.escapeforum.org/forums/f...9-23895-2.html
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02-26-2023, 06:22 PM
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#19
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2020
Location: CenTex, Texas
Trailer: 2022 E19
Posts: 621
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TWebs46
This is pretty slick! (I'm not that ambitious!)
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Nothing to it - didn't even unplug / undo anything. Just swung everything into it's new place. ( Though the EMS was an add on by me...)
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02-27-2023, 07:14 AM
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#20
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Naples, New York
Trailer: 2020 Esacpe 19'(Hillbilly Heaven) ETI best named trailer of the year
Posts: 1,204
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You may want to consider mounting the controller in the upright position. I know Victron says the unit will not cool properly unless mounted upright. wouldn't take much to relocate like 7gentex
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