Collection of info about replacing the SDS2 stove with a Dometic D21

[Rossue]

Originally Posted by Telescopist

No purpose related to the installation.

Not necessarily. The sink has four corner pieces to hold down the drop in sink. I remember finding a piece of L-bracket that I didn't recognize. Then when my sink was needing to be resealed as water was dripping down below I found two front brackets were missing. Rolling earthquake effect.

Perhaps a drop in stove top has them as well.

[rainyescape]

Originally Posted by Bobbie54

The corner pieces- 4 little metal corners- anyone have any idea what their purpose is?

I was wondering the same thing! I tried installing mine without the metal pieces, and it rattled around a bit, so I think they make for a more snug fit.

[Bobbie54]

Dave got the D21 in. I have to say it wasn't easy! He did the toggle bolts but in fact you can't reach the back one on a 17b, so that was a whole 'nother issue since the stove and furnace prevent you from holding the bottom end. The stove works fine and looks nice. A template for the D21 cutout might have helped but one was not provided. We left out the metal corners as it was a nice tight fit and we could not see their purpose (we had already left the extra on the cutout as discussed above. The hose had plenty of length, at least, the way it fits in the 17b.

[Bobbie54]

Originally Posted by rainyescape

I was wondering the same thing! I tried installing mine without the metal pieces, and it rattled around a bit, so I think they make for a more snug fit.

Dave measured the actual stove and cut to fit- got a little TOO tight on the first try- so they weren't needed. Dave speculated that they were to allow for the extra in the measurement so that makes sense that if the cutout were as big as they specify we'd have needed them.

[TTMartin]

Originally Posted by JohnK

So which part is defective on the D21? My D21 is in the mail as of yesterday.

It was a regulator that wasn't operating as design. Not a design flaw like the Suburban.

[TTMartin]

Originally Posted by Bobbie54

The corner pieces- 4 little metal corners- anyone have any idea what their purpose is?

The cooktop actually rests on the metal pieces. They support the cooktop and strengthen the corners of the hole in the counter. Contrary to someone else's statement, I believe they are an integral part of proper installation of the cooktop.

[Bobbie54]

Well, I saved them so if that turns out to be a problem we can go back and replace them.

[JohnK]

And FYI for anyone concerned, we are camping at 8400 ft and the D21 works perfectly. We’ll be trying it out at 10,000 ft tomorrow.

John

[TTMartin]

Originally Posted by Bobbie54

Well, I saved them so if that turns out to be a problem we can go back and replace them.

At this point it should just be loosen the two screws on the side of the cooktop, lift it up and slide the corner supports in.

[Bobbie54]

Got the Dometic installed. The original plan was to skip the sparker, but we decided to just add some wire and connect it. All done, gas works, stove works, sparker doesn't do anything. Any idea which fuse it would be if it were a fuse? (Could be the stove, could be the wiring, could be a fuse, only one of those is likely to get changed.)

[JohnK]

If your SDS2 sparker was operating up properly it is just a matter of wiring up the D21 to the same wires respecting polarity of course.

Our D21 is performing well at Cumbres Pass CO elevation 10,000 ft

John

[Bobbie54]

Originally Posted by JohnK

If your SDS2 sparker was operating up properly it is just a matter of wiring up the D21 to the same wires respecting polarity of course.

Our D21 is performing well at Cumbres Pass CO elevation 10,000 ft

John

We had to lengthen wires but it was also wired up to the new stove, doesn't work. BUT... hadn't checked the sparker since the only time I ran the stove so somewhere along the line may have stopped working. No big deal as I'm fine with matches anyway. If it were simple I'd fix it though.

[JohnP]

Originally Posted by Telescopist

Twice over the past 40 years I've botched up the cut out in a countertop for a sink. Here's how I dealt with the replacement Dometic stove. I made a template out of a scrap piece of 1/4" plywood. Cut it to fit flush on the countertop. Measured out from right side wall and front of base cabinet to existing hole. Drew lines which intersected. Took the piece of plywood over to a workbench and cut out the opening to dimensions shown. Then positioned the template over existing countertop opening. Marked any pieces of countertop that protruded into the 'new' opening. Removed template. Cut out marked pieces with a sabre saw. I cut out 4 pieces. Professionally done Photoshopped image of the cut outs attached. I was surprised to see how sloppy the original opening cut was prior to the Suburban stove being installed. It was as much as 1/4" width difference front to back. Dull sabre saw blade? Pending lunch break?

Now if I can only figure out how to add an additional 6 inches or so of gas line to the existing gas line in order to connect to the new stove... How have others dealt with this assuming the problem only exists with the 21C?

I reached out to Escape re. hose extension for installing the Dometic stove in a 21C and their response was:
"Here is the coupling https://www.fairviewfittings.com/products/fittings-adapters/brass-fittings/flare-fittings-sae-45/union-coupling-750/

The hose is 3/8 ID, 3/8F.SAE X 3/8F.SAE, 12"

The original supply line is Type I, therefore, I think the extension should be: https://www.fairviewfittings.com/products/hose-assemblies/propane-and-natural-gas/gas-hose-assemblies-lpg--natural/3-8-id-type-1-rubber-f-sae-assemblies-50660/

[Telescopist]

Originally Posted by JohnP

I reached out to Escape re. hose extension for installing the Dometic stove in a 21C and their response was:
"Here is the coupling https://www.fairviewfittings.com/products/fittings-adapters/brass-fittings/flare-fittings-sae-45/union-coupling-750/

The hose is 3/8 ID, 3/8F.SAE X 3/8F.SAE, 12"

The original supply line is Type I, therefore, I think the extension should be: https://www.fairviewfittings.com/products/hose-assemblies/propane-and-natural-gas/gas-hose-assemblies-lpg--natural/3-8-id-type-1-rubber-f-sae-assemblies-50660/

Great find. What length did you order? I had a farm supply store make me up a 20-inch piece. The hose is thick and not very flexible over a short run. And the regulator on the Dometic is situated in an odd position. It turns out that 20 inches was perfect. What wasn't perfect is the fact that they only had 1/4 inch fittings. I'm reduced down. However, it doesn't seem to effect the quality of flame I'm getting. That said, I may go ahead and order the right diameter hose from this place.

[JohnP]

I did some more research and send below part numbers to Escape, which they confirmed are the correct ones:

• 42-6 3/8" BRASS MALE SAE X 3/8" MALE SAE UNION COUPLING: https://www.new-line.com/fittings/brass-flare-fittings/brass-sae-45-flare-fittings/union-coupling-male-sae-x-male-sae
• I6C12FS6FS6 3/8" TYPE 1 RUBBER PROPANE X 12" w/-6 FEMALE SAE SWIVEL E/E: https://www.new-line.com/hose/compressed-gas-lpg-lng-welding-hose/cga-lp-propane-natural-gas-hose-assemblies/type-1-rubber-propane-hose-with-female-sae-ends
  
  In terms of the length for the hose assembly I will take measures in the trailer and then decide (consider also max. bend radius). The '12' in the hose assembly code (I6C12FS6FS6) represents it's length of 12". At the link above you will also find different lengths (18", 20", etc.).

[Telescopist]

Originally Posted by JohnP

I did some more research and send below part numbers to Escape, which they confirmed are the correct ones:

• 42-6 3/8" BRASS MALE SAE X 3/8" MALE SAE UNION COUPLING: https://www.new-line.com/fittings/brass-flare-fittings/brass-sae-45-flare-fittings/union-coupling-male-sae-x-male-sae
• I6C12FS6FS6 3/8" TYPE 1 RUBBER PROPANE X 12" w/-6 FEMALE SAE SWIVEL E/E: https://www.new-line.com/hose/compressed-gas-lpg-lng-welding-hose/cga-lp-propane-natural-gas-hose-assemblies/type-1-rubber-propane-hose-with-female-sae-ends
  
  In terms of the length for the hose assembly I will take measures in the trailer and then decide (consider also max. bend radius). The '12' in the hose assembly code (I6C12FS6FS6) represents it's length of 12". At the link above you will also find different lengths (18", 20", etc.).

Once again, helpful information. At the farm store I was asked how long a piece to cut. I guessed 20 inches. This turned out to be perfect. Attached is my arrangement. It looks a little wonky I'll be the first to admit. But I'm satisfied. There is no stress points in the hose going to the regulator and it is out of the way. Bonus points: I added a cutoff valve.

[Ron in BC]

Originally Posted by Telescopist

Once again, helpful information. At the farm store I was asked how long a piece to cut. I guessed 20 inches. This turned out to be perfect. Attached is my arrangement. It looks a little wonky I'll be the first to admit. But I'm satisfied. There is no stress points in the hose going to the regulator and it is out of the way. Bonus points: I added a cutoff valve.

Doesn't look wonky to me. Well secured and the 360* loop reduces the direct pull stress on the connection.

Cutoff valve. I always add one where possible. It prevents having to shut down the whole system because of one item failing.

Ron

[Telescopist]

Originally Posted by Ron in BC

Doesn't look wonky to me. Well secured and the 360* loop reduces the direct pull stress on the connection.

Cutoff valve. I always add one where possible. It prevents having to shut down the whole system because of one item failing.

Ron

Yes. Really it should be part of the code. If there is a leak or other problem with the stove, you have to shut down Everything. I bought a 140 year old build which got converted into apartments. Stoves are all gas. No cut off valves behind the stoves! I changed that right away.

[Carmel Clown]

Ok guys, help me out please. I found a hose for propane at the hardware store. It has the 3/8 fittings but the hose is smaller in circumference (or is it girth) than the hose in the cabinet. Does that matter? Should I try to fine a larger hose? Thanks.

[Telescopist]

Originally Posted by Carmel Clown

Ok guys, help me out please. I found a hose for propane at the hardware store. It has the 3/8 fittings but the hose is smaller in circumference (or is it girth) than the hose in the cabinet. Does that matter? Should I try to fine a larger hose? Thanks.

If it has 3/8" fittings then its probably a 3/8" hose. However, hardware stores usually do not sell rubber propane hose unless they are the farm supply type. Check out post #75 by JohnP. Is what you have rubber or is it flex yellow hose which the box stores and hardware stores sell?