Looking for a new surge protector

[Red Dog]

Originally Posted by rubicon327

Fred: Keep in mind when installing on of these yourself the standard time delay from the factory for power is 15 seconds. I believe Escape pulls the jumper on the board which increases it to 136 seconds. I’m ok with the 15 seconds because my mini-split A/C has an internal time delay safety. The standard Dometic A/C may not have this. You may need to pull the jumper for the best protection of your A/C on a restart.

Thanks Dave.
I will take that into account.

Fred M.

[tdf-texas]

Originally Posted by Red Dog

Jim and Tom (TDF-TEXAS),

Can you mount the monitor above the fridge, use the cable that is provided and still maintain the 13’ distance limitation?
(See excerpt from the installation manual)

Attachment 36183

Fred M.

The EMS-HW30C comes with a 14' data cable. On my trailer, it was coiled up and ty wrapped - still 14' long.
http://www.progressiveindustries.net/ems-hw30c

14' will get you from the driver side corner to top of the fridge easily.

[rotorbudd]

Originally Posted by tdf-texas

The EMS-HW30C comes with a 14' data cable. On my trailer, it was coiled up and ty wrapped - still 14' long.
Progressive Industries EMS-HW30C

14' will get you from the driver side corner to top of the fridge easily.

I had Escape run the cable from the battery box to above the fridge. Still 4 ft. coiled up beside the box.
Now I need to figure out how to get into the cavity above the fridge to hook up the cable.

[padlin]

Got to pull the fridge, at least part way. When I installed my inverter remote with the fridge half way or so out I could reach up over the fridge to pass the cable thru the hole I made for it. Granted the cable is just sitting on top of the fridge, but I;ll take care of that should I need to remove the fridge completely some day. Of course you need to find where ETI left it and cut the tie if that's what they used.

[tdf-texas]

Originally Posted by rotorbudd

I had Escape run the cable from the battery box to above the fridge. Still 4 ft. coiled up beside the box.
Now I need to figure out how to get into the cavity above the fridge to hook up the cable.

An access panel installed above the fridge makes installing stuff easy - but you still have to pull the fridge.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/14-in-x-...PD14/204352607

[padlin]

Hadn't thought about how ETI insulates these days, on my 2014 I did my own insulation and made the top so I could push it out of the way. Newer trailers would differ, it might limit access without pulling the fridge completely.

[rotorbudd]

We don't have the microwave option. Would it be possible to cut a small door through the panel that's between the fridge and microwave cabinet? Even if I do a sh***y job patching it nobody will see it!

[tdf-texas]

Originally Posted by padlin

Hadn't thought about how ETI insulates these days, on my 2014 I did my own insulation and made the top so I could push it out of the way. Newer trailers would differ, it might limit access without pulling the fridge completely.

Oh, my fridge insulation wasn't anything like it is now when I picked it up. Actually, the insulation was fairly marginal at best and from what I have been told Escape does the newer trailers better than they use to do on the older trailers.

My fridge compartment now has at least two layers of reflectix with more insulation where it could be added and is completely sealed waterproof from bottom to top.

Here are some before and after pics.

[tdf-texas]

Originally Posted by rotorbudd

We don't have the microwave option. Would it be possible to cut a small door through the panel that's between the fridge and microwave cabinet? Even if I do a sh***y job patching it nobody will see it!

You could do that but the area above the fridge is not very tall but is long - you would not be able to reach the far side reaching through a hole in the side of the microwave cavity. It would be hard to work in there.

On the other hand, pulling the fridge is a easy job. Unplug the ac cord, disconnect the 12v wires and disconnect the propane line - the fridge is now detached. Then there are two screws in the bottom back, four screws around the front and it just slides out.

[John in Santa Cruz]

Originally Posted by tdf-texas

The remote monitor is mounted down low on the right side of the dinette area. If I had a chance for a do-over, I would mount it up above the fridge next to the tank monitor.

thats where it is on my 2014.

[Vermilye]

Originally Posted by rotorbudd

I had Escape run the cable from the battery box to above the fridge. Still 4 ft. coiled up beside the box.
Now I need to figure out how to get into the cavity above the fridge to hook up the cable.

If you temporarily pull the battery/tank monitor panel, it will provide enough access to add the surge protector remote. Again, something to consider. It flashes red digits as it cycles between readings. Do you want that all night long?

[Red Dog]

Originally Posted by Vermilye

Again, something to consider. It flashes red digits as it cycles between readings. Do you want that all night long?

Jon, where does your monitor reside? I am weighing all options.

Fred M.

[Vermilye]

Mine is in the stock Escape position - at the top of the driver's side dinette bench wall. I do wish the GoPower solar controller was over the refrigerator (as Escape did in the past), but it is in the face of the opposite (passenger side) dinette wall. Tough to bend over to read. I added a remote switch (the inverter switch is built into the solar controller for the newer GoPower controllers) for the inverter over the refrigerator, so I don't have to do deep knee bends every time I want to turn it on or off...

[rotorbudd]

Thanks for the info Jon.
You've got me rethinking the location too.
It sure would be easier to put it somewhere on the dinette wall

[cpaharley2008]

Originally Posted by rotorbudd

Thanks for the info Jon.
You've got me rethinking the location too.
It sure would be easier to put it somewhere on the dinette wall

See post#58 and here http://escapetrailer.com/wp-content/...dLocations.pdf

[padlin]

Originally Posted by rotorbudd

Thanks for the info Jon.
You've got me rethinking the location too.
It sure would be easier to put it somewhere on the dinette wall

I suppose you could put it on the dinette/fridge wall, would have to get to the table to see it but there would be no bending over and the lights wouldn't bother you. If it were up high enough, you could see it thru the window after connecting power.

[Barb Hunt]

I have a Progressive Industries SSP 30XL and it has worked during power outages here on Vancouver Island - this winter and last winter. I like that it has two lights, blue and green, that indicate everything is working well. Reassuring.

[Red Dog]

Progressive Industries EMS-HW30C successfully installed.

Thanks to everyone for their input!



Fred M.

[thumper-tx]

Are there issues with the Samlex brand that Escape installs on new trailers? I see no one mentioned them.

[padlin]

Last I knew ETI was installing the same unit Fred just put in. Samlex is/was the inverter used, at least for a while.