Replacing Propane stovetop and Oven in 21NE

[gklott]

Well designed, elegant installation. Much impressed.

Understand your transition to induction cooking. We have pretty much transitioned to using a single induction cooktop, except when boondocking in a no-generator area on non-solar generating days.

On your second power input (feeder), recommend that you consider the National Electric Code (NEC) §551.31, Multiple Supply Source. As examples, your new feeder is to have RV-mounted overcurrent protection; the new feeder’s ground must be connected to the trailer’s chassis and the other feeder’s ground; and, the new §551.40(D) requiring a ground monitor interrupter (GMI) permanently installed between all feeder inputs and the panel and branch circuits inside the RV.

The Escape installed EMS in our trailers provides the GMI device. This blocks feeder connection if the hot and neutral are reversed or if a ground is missing. All RV park pedestal 20A outlets should be GFCI, so that adds some protection from improperly wired or broken outlets.

Understand your rationale, but I am like Centex - conservative toward safety.

73/gus

[miataone]

So apparently all those boat and RV owners that are using this device https://www.westmarine.com/the-noco-...-14995864.html
are in violation of the NEC. My apologies for sharing this publicly. Thanks for all the helpful information!

[gklott]

Originally Posted by miataone

So apparently all those boat and RV owners that are using this device https://www.westmarine.com/the-noco-...-14995864.html
are in violation of the NEC. My apologies for sharing this publicly. Thanks for all the helpful information!

If that device is the only feeder, if internally there is only the one receptacle as shown, if the breaker at the pedestal is GFCI, if sized for the single load, and meets other NEC chapters on material and workmanship, it may not violate the NEC.

No need to apologize for sharing publicly. The NEC is a recommended safety standard. You are not required by statute to follow it.

73/gus

[Ron in BC]

Originally Posted by miataone

I have subsequently added an input for an independent 15 amp extension cord, that along with the already available 15 amp circuit can provide the needed current to be able to run both appliances simultaneously, for all those times that we are camped at a spot that has 50 amp service available.

The outlet powered by this 15 amp cord can also be used at times when I do not want the trailer's entire power center energized for whatever reason, during times the trailer is in storage.

I also have the ability to have an independent 15 amp extension cord. Very handy at times.

I have to say, there's been some pretty nicely done mods over the years but your's is right up there with the best of the best.

Too bad you don't live near me, I'd be making you an offer for your old unit.

Ron

[miataone]

Originally Posted by gklott

If that device is the only feeder, if internally there is only the one receptacle as shown, if the breaker at the pedestal is GFCI, if sized for the single load, and meets other NEC chapters on material and workmanship, it may not violate the NEC.

No need to apologize for sharing publicly. The NEC is a recommended safety standard. You are not required by statute to follow it.

73/gus

So it appears that I am OK after all. Thanks! I would not want to publicly encourage anyone to do something that is dangerous!


My thread was intended to be about the stove top and oven conversion, not a discussion of the NEC. Hopefully someone finds it informative, should they wish to make a change.

[Jim Bennett]

Great job, it looks great. A well planned and executed project, I like that.

How do you deal with using it when camping off the grid. As the vast majority of the places we camp are off the grid, and even if at a campground we usually have no services. Do you have a big battery bank and an inverter?

My wife loves using our oven and I love the results. Okay, I use it some too but it is mainly her toy. We never even considered getting a microwave and in a few decades of using a trailer have never needed one. At home it is used to reheat my wife's coffee, when camping we drink it.

[miataone]

As discussed in posts 5 & 15, our camping style is such that we almost always have power available, and when we don’t, we have other options that work off of propane.
We just completed this install, and have yet to actually use it. I will know more about how it works out in actual practice within the next 8 months or so! Everything can be reversed and the original equipment reinstalled within an hour, should the wife decide that she doesn’t like the changes.

[gklott]

Originally Posted by Jim Bennett

My wife loves using our oven and I love the results. Okay, I use it some too but it is mainly her toy. We never even considered getting a microwave and in a few decades of using a trailer have never needed one. At home it is used to reheat my wife's coffee, when camping we drink it.

That Dickinson stove is the best. Really like your installation.

73/gus

[C&G in FL]

Very nicely executed modification!

[miataone]

Thank you everybody for your comments! This is my 4th molded fiberglass camper and while I have done mods on all of them, this is the first time I have shared on this forum. However I have been following the forum for the last five years or more, and I have learned a lot from the rest of you. Thank you!

[John in Santa Cruz]

Originally Posted by miataone

I have subsequently added an input for an independent 15 amp extension cord, that along with the already available 15 amp circuit can provide the needed current to be able to run both appliances simultaneously, for all those times that we are camped at a spot that has 50 amp service available.








The outlet powered by this 15 amp cord can also be used at times when I do not want the trailer's entire power center energized for whatever reason, during times the trailer is in storage.


The trailer has the solar package with two rooftop panels, a lithium battery and the 1500 watt inverter, so the microwave can be used for brief periods of time when we have no hookups and I don't want to fire up the generator, such as stopping at a rest stop or whatever.

That 120V input is connected to the trailers main 120V panel ? So it's hot if the 30A plug is plugged into shore power? That means you can get a heck of a shock from it. I just use a 15A plug on my 30A cord. And if I don't want the DC power center on, I switch off it's breaker.

[miataone]

The power input pictured is NOT connected in any way to the panel. It terminates in a single receptacle, that is only energized when an extension cord is plugged into the input. So there is no danger of electrical shock from that input.

[Ron in BC]

Originally Posted by miataone

The power input pictured is NOT connected in any way to the panel. It terminates in a single receptacle, that is only energized when an extension cord is plugged into the input. So there is no danger of electrical shock from that input.

Right, that's the whole idea of having an independent 110V circuit.

Ron

[John in Santa Cruz]

Originally Posted by miataone

The power input pictured is NOT connected in any way to the panel. It terminates in a single receptacle, that is only energized when an extension cord is plugged into the input. So there is no danger of electrical shock from that input.

huh. not sure I understand the utility of that.

[miataone]

Originally Posted by John in Santa Cruz

huh. not sure I understand the utility of that.

I now have 2 sources of current available for appliances; a 15 amp circuit that comes out of the electrical panel in the trailer, which connects to a 30 amp circuit on the pedestal, and a second 15 amp circuit that comes through the extension cord that connects a 15 amp circuit on the pedestal to a single receptacle inside the trailer. Thus I can run both of my appliances simultaneously without overload. Does that make sense? That is one use, but there can be others.

[Ron in BC]

Originally Posted by John in Santa Cruz

huh. not sure I understand the utility of that.

Originally Posted by miataone

That is one use, but there can be others.

I like to be able to completely shut down the trailer without having to individually shut down the converter etc. This way it's easy to put on my winter heat knowing that it's the only thing on a live circuit.

Ron

[lostskier]

Very nicely done! I removed my stove/oven and replaced the oven with a convection oven/microwave, installed a solid countertop (corinthian), deeper and bigger sink, and now use a portable convection hot plate. I ran the electric same as you from the outlet under the sink and installed another outlet just for the appliances. I have a pop up outlet in the countertop for the hot plate. I've got 270amps of lithium and tested the hot plate out for demand using the inverter and it works great. Estimate I can go without solar for 2-3 days using it. I posted pics on the Escape Owners Facebook site.

[CE Vogel]

Beautiful installation! The CNC certainly helped with the aesthetics. I like your idea of the separate 15A power input for the same reason as Ron in BC; so I can plug in a heater in winter without powering the whole trailer. Where did you get the through-wall input connector?

[John in Santa Cruz]

Originally Posted by CE Vogel

... I like your idea of the separate 15A power input for the same reason as Ron in BC; so I can plug in a heater in winter without powering the whole trailer. Where did you get the through-wall input connector?

pretty easy to find. google for NEMA 5-15P panel mount...

for example,
https://www.amazon.com/WELLUCK-Water.../dp/B08B3MR572

[miataone]

Originally Posted by CE Vogel

Beautiful installation! The CNC certainly helped with the aesthetics. I like your idea of the separate 15A power input for the same reason as Ron in BC; so I can plug in a heater in winter without powering the whole trailer. Where did you get the through-wall input connector?

West Marine has the input connector available in their online store. The link can be found earlier in this thread.