Bad converter?

[SageRpod]

Originally Posted by CharlesPou

, I got new batteries installed OK, but those babies are really heavy!!!

The primary reason I never switched to GC2 batteries plus the added tongue weight

Originally Posted by CharlesPou

RV shop was honest, just didn’t know what they were doing. didn’t charge me much, and I appreciated them looking at it, but probably wouldn’t want them to install new converter haha.

I know you are trying to be nice but I don't think "honest" can be used in the same sentence as "didn't know what they were doing" especially for something like this. Any RV shop worth its salt should know how to diagnose this.

Originally Posted by CharlesPou

so should to exchange my new batteries for correct posts configuration, or just leave well enough alone? otherwise appears same battery GC2 with same specs.
all replies welcomed, cheers

Not a good question for me to answer because I have been told I am OCD. I would exchange for the correct post configuration after a good night's rest and some Wheaties for breakfast.

[CharlesPou]

thanks for replies, I generally agree with those critical of RV shop, I knew better, but was hoping against hope it was the batteries, so I was an easy mark lols. their regular RV guy was out sick with broken foot, which maybe was true. so I guess plan was to sell some 12 volt batteries? well at least I didn’t do that haha.

and yes I was trying to be nice, my brother lives here. it’s a small town, and he doesn’t want me raising hell.

I decided different battery post configuration was OK, wouldn’t cause any long term issues. batteries installed nice, cables fit perfect. I even went back to Napa and they were willing to swap, but ultimately didn’t have the OEM battery I decided I was better off with what I already had. cheers

[CharlesPou]

new development, I’m plugged into shore power and losing power for short time before it comes back on, was worse this morning. maybe converter is about to totally fail. I verified shore power was on outside of trailer. guess I’m camping with fancy tent on wheels lols. all replies welcome. cheers

[Ron in BC]

When you say losing power have you established that it's the converter losing power? One way to confirm that is to plug a 110V device into an outlet and confirm that when the converter loses power the independent device stays on. If not the problem could be upstream.

Ron

[CharlesPou]

yes,did verify runs my electric space heater plugged directly into shore power. my EMS display has been showing > 120 volts from time to time and maybe high voltage could be related to losing power? right now working properly, display showing 123 volts. have seen 128 volts. alls good for now, wish me luck. cheers

[Ron in BC]

110 volts is a bit of a misnomer. If I was showing 110 volts I'd be thinking that maybe my extension cord was too long. My voltmeter usually reads a 117-120.
Voltage from shore power can vary quite a bit depending on location. Some areas have the voltage drop so low as to cause brownouts.

The converter is powered by a circuit breaker. Don't know if you've checked the connection to the breaker terminal. Loose connections have been found in the past.

Ron

[CharlesPou]

yes, could be something loose? once lost power and I opened circuit breaker box and switched all the breaker switches open/ close. nothing happened until I closed the cover and then power was restored, maybe a coincidence?

I have separate power cord option, and outside plug mounted on driver’s side rear of trailer, one prong was loose. was that was for years, sad to say. I recently disassembled plug and discovered screw fastening wire to loose plug had fallen out but was still inside plug housing. I reassembled and all was well. guy at Bluebonnet Rally said loose plug was fire hazard potential arcing issue. so after that comment I fixed it. big project for me haha.

I just looked under driver side bench seat where outside power enters trailer, goes through EMS and into converter. all looks good, nothing appears loose or hot, no burning smells. if something is loose, maybe inside converter?

thanks for comments. cheers

[Ron in BC]

Originally Posted by CharlesPou

yes, could be something loose? once lost power and I opened circuit breaker box and switched all the breaker switches open/ close. nothing happened until I closed the cover and then power was restored, maybe a coincidence?

The old wiggle and jiggle method sometimes does point to a problem.

Your circuit breaker numbers may be different than my old E19 panel. You can see the black "hot" wire is held in place with the silver set screw. On the 19 and others you can see that circuit breaker #1 serves two purposes and has two hot wires. I don't like that practice at all. Some folks have found that one or more of the setscrews has loosened enough to make intermittent contact.

With the power off pull on the black wires and confirm that they're firmly attached.

Ron

[alanmalk]

Originally Posted by Ron in BC

...
With the power off pull on the black wires and confirm that they're firmly attached.

Ron

Just to repeat the important part of this procedure:

With the power off...

By unplugging the AC power cord!

Otherwise, when dealing with AC power you could be the source of the burning smell.

[CharlesPou]

good comments, lost power again as we speak. as I get more desperate will nesxt look for any loose connections. my breaker box doesn’t look like Ron’s pic. I assume need to disassemble to expose where wires are attached to breaker box? when I open the door I just see breaker switches on left side, fuses on the right, no wires with fastening screws.

i will have battery disconnected and shore power unplugged, but appreciate concern. thanks for comments, cheers

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by CharlesPou

good comments, lost power again as we speak. as I get more desperate will nesxt look for any loose connections. my breaker box doesn’t look like Ron’s pic. I assume need to disassemble to expose where wires are attached to breaker box? when I open the door I just see breaker switches on left side, fuses on the right, no wires with fastening screws.

i will have battery disconnected and shore power unplugged, but appreciate concern. thanks for comments, cheers

If you have the WFCO-8955 there are two screws behind the door that need to be removed. Then the whole cover lifts off two tabs at the bottom. Then it will look like Ron’s.

[Tonny LR]

Originally Posted by rubicon327

If there is a chance you might convert to lithium I would get the PD4655LMBA which has a jumper for lithium charging
https://www.bestconverter.com/PD-465...l#.WniBl3xG1aQ

Hi rubicon 327,
I need your advice to decide whether to select a PD-4655L 55 or 30 Amp converter . The trailer I believe originally came with a 30 Amp converter. I plan to convert to 2 x 100 AH blue tooth heater Lithium batteries, and add a 400 watts portable solar panel to charge the Lithium batteries. I also have a 90 watts roof mounted solar panel. I watched youtube videos that stated to stay with the original trailer 30 Amp to be safe when replacing converter. Thank you!
Tonny LR

[CharlesPou]

rubicon, thanks for post. tonight lost power for hours, thought maybe the end? then I unplugged shore power to maybe reset. after plugging back into shore power took a minute for EMS to reset and I had power again. amazing haha

I was going to try battery power without shore power, thinking maybe battery power bypasses EMS and goes directly to converter? but then power came back on, yea!!! EMS display was reading 129 volts, recently dropped to 124, right now 123. I’m moving to NV state park Mon and will have electric just using trailer power cord. now I’m using house shore power with 200’ extension cord I use with 9 amp electric chainsaw. I’m thinking maybe long extension cord is causing EMS to shut off electric to trailer? I’ve been only using refrigerator, and fans: bathroom, stove top vent and bathroom vent, and furnace so not pulling many amps. right now with stove top vent fan, one light, and refrigerator I pulling 6 amps.

was so awesome when power came back haha. cheers

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by Tonny LR

Hi rubicon 327,
I need your advice to decide whether to select a PD-4655L 55 or 30 Amp converter . The trailer I believe originally came with a 30 Amp converter. I plan to convert to 2 x 100 AH blue tooth heater Lithium batteries, and add a 400 watts portable solar panel to charge the Lithium batteries. I also have a 90 watts roof mounted solar panel. I watched youtube videos that stated to stay with the original trailer 30 Amp to be safe when replacing converter. Thank you!
Tonny LR

Tonny if you have a 2014 trailer I can almost guarantee it has the WFCO-8955 that has been used for many years. This has DC charging capabilities up to 55 amps. Are you possibly confusing it with the AC side which is rated/designed for 30A service?

[Tonny LR]

Originally Posted by rubicon327

Tonny if you have a 2014 trailer I can almost guarantee it has the WFCO-8955 that has been used for many years. This has DC charging capabilities up to 55 amps. Are you possibly confusing it with the AC side which is rated/designed for 30A service?

Thanks for clarifying the converter rated for AC 30 Amp and DC charging capability up to 55 Amp.
Tonny LR

[oldwave]

200 foot shore power cord will certainly drop the voltage unless it’s very heavy duty cord. Even at 10 gauge you’d get a significant loss

[CharlesPou]

thanks for reply. I’ll be near Las Vegas soon for a few days. anyone know of good RV repair shops they can recommend located Las Vegas. I’ll be staying at Valley of Fire SP, so North Vegas location preferred. cheers

[CharlesPou]

latest update: found RV mobile tech Las Vegas to change out just converter, says with model WF-8955PEC can just replace converter, less cost for parts, less labor to install. so I’m spending 1 night at Las Vegas RV Resort, so he can work on it the next morning. I have to pay for parts up front and labor after finished.

I’m at NV SP now plugged into 30 amp shore power and with battery unplugged, everything is working like a champ, running AC now. after I got estimate for parts, high!, I told him no go, would just continue to limp home lols.

any and all comments welcomed, cheers

[John in Santa Cruz]

Originally Posted by CharlesPou

latest update: found RV mobile tech Las Vegas to change out just converter, says with model WF-8955PEC can just replace converter, less cost for parts, less labor to install. so I’m spending 1 night at Las Vegas RV Resort, so he can work on it the next morning. I have to pay for parts up front and labor after finished.

I’m at NV SP now plugged into 30 amp shore power and with battery unplugged, everything is working like a champ, running AC now. after I got estimate for parts, high!, I told him no go, would just continue to limp home lols.

any and all comments welcomed, cheers

fwiw, the PD4655V modules are exactly the same thing. couple of screws, 5 wires, bam, done. They come with whats needed to fit exactly into the WFCO 8955 power center. I've swapped like 3 of them now on different RVs.

[CharlesPou]

hello john cruz, good info, I’ll research, thanks cheers