Electrical system troubleshooting

[Ron in BC]

Originally Posted by ghosthunter

No

Best way to do it?

Multi tester or simple light tester?

Either works fine. I find the light is faster. Don't have to have the multimeter where you can see it. Touch the probe here there and everywhere and see instant results, or not.

Ron

[Ron in BC]

I should mention that when trouble shooting, only have one variable in play.

For example, if you suspect a problem on the positive side, connect one lead directly to the battery negative. That way if the power trail stops, the problem is on the positive side.

If the positive side has continuous power then connect to the positive terminal and work your way along each connection terminal in the negative wiring.

Ron

[cpaharley2008]

Good tip there, Ron.....

[Perry Butler]

Originally Posted by Ron in BC

I should mention that when trouble shooting, only have one variable in play.

For example, if you suspect a problem on the positive side, connect one lead directly to the battery negative. That way if the power trail stops, the problem is on the positive side.

If the positive side has continuous power then connect to the positive terminal and work your way along each connection terminal in the negative wiring.

Yup, start at the battery and work your way towards the distribution panel. Half the time it's a break in the positive though.

23 years finding breaks in our farm equipment wiring, that made the vibrations we experience look like childs play, helped me learn to correct wiring problems. Sometimes it just drives you crazy though.

Enjoy,

Perry

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by rubicon327

Also do you have 12V power to everything when you plug in to your tow vehicle?

Originally Posted by ghosthunter

No
All traffic lights work. But no 12 volt inside trailer.

Originally Posted by alanmalk

Just to be sure - some vehicles must have the ignition switch in the "on" (engine running) position before they send power to the 12V line to the trailer.

Originally Posted by ghosthunter

TV was running at the time.

Geez. Now this is really interesting. That's almost a completely separate power path to the DC board. The power from tow vehicle would typically intersect downstream of any battery fuse and the battery disconnect switch so if they were part of the issue you should have had power. The circuit from tow vehicle typically does include the auto reset circuit breaker but you just replaced that so that is not the issue. I'm officially stumped. I believe the only issue that would be common to both pathways is if it was a grounding problem.

[Vermilye]

Originally Posted by alanmalk

Just to be sure - some vehicles must have the ignition switch in the "on" (engine running) position before they send power to the 12V line to the trailer.

And some require putting the vehicle in gear or stepping on the brake or some other sequence of events before they turn on the trailer charge line (pin 4 on the connector). My 2018 F150 is one of them.

[LarryandLiz]

This thread is filled with information which will be useful when we run into electrical trouble. I’m wondering if the thread heading can be changed to something to help us find it again. Perhaps pinned?

This thread is a great example of how the Escape Trailer Owner community truly help one another!!!!!

I’ve benefitted from this form since 2014 and I try to be a useful member (albeit very lacking in mechanical/electrical skills).

[Donna D.]

Originally Posted by LarryandLiz

This thread is filled with information which will be useful when we run into electrical trouble. I’m wondering if the thread heading can be changed to something to help us find it again. Perhaps pinned?

This thread is a great example of how the Escape Trailer Owner community truly help one another!!!!!

I’ve benefitted from this form since 2014 and I try to be a useful member (albeit very lacking in mechanical/electrical skills).

I won't pin it, but did change the thread title. Good idea Should be helpful for Search

[Vermilye]

Originally Posted by Ron in BC

I should mention that when trouble shooting, only have one variable in play.

For example, if you suspect a problem on the positive side, connect one lead directly to the battery negative. That way if the power trail stops, the problem is on the positive side.

If the positive side has continuous power then connect to the positive terminal and work your way along each connection terminal in the negative wiring.

Ron

Ron has a good method of trouble shooting. Put a socket for a 12V lamp with a 12V lamp that draws less than an amp or so on a piece of wire long enough to reach from either battery post to the furthest electrical tie point, with a short wire with a probe on the other side of the lamp socket. If you want to go to the trouble, an alligator clip on the battery end would be a practical addition. Use the clip to attach to the battery terminal & follow Ron's suggestion.

[LarryandLiz]

Originally Posted by Donna D.

I won't pin it, but did change the thread title. Good idea Should be helpful for Search

Thanks Donna. And thanks for all you do for the Forum

[ghosthunter]

Up date up date, Houston we might have found the cause.

As stated above we left today for a 40 mile trip north to camp at Oostead Farm near Lynden Wa. To camp for weekend near my son s house for our granddaughters birth day.

Early this week I noticed my font storage lid was rubbing a bit on trailer, but figured it was swelling from weather.

Upon arriving at campsite I went to open front storage and could not get the lid open. It was against the trailer. What

I step back and knew right away what the problem was. The trailer frame had broken just behind the front stabilizers. No kidding broke completely off on driver side and over half on passenger side.

I stripped away insulation to expose the break next to the black water line .

Wow I am thanking god tonight. Our camp host knew a portable welder who came right out and he and I leveled the trailer closed the gap ,welded it shut and reinforced it with iron plate.

So I am wondering if the crack as it widen in my driveway put stress on electrical wires?
The main Wire harness runs right along the frame on drivers side.

So when I get back I am going to inspect the wire which is in a plastic sleeve for breaks.

It’s Interesting to note that this crack became worse while siting in my driveway 3 months.
I know for a fact that the storage box door was not rubbing when I parked it.


Can this be the cause of my mystery 12 volt issue.

Stand by.

[ghosthunter]

Photos

[ghosthunter]

As a side note we met Bonnie from Colorado camped here with her brand new 19 ft.
They picked up today.

It was cold and windy and we were in the middle of repairs. But nice to congratulate her on her new Escape.

[Iowa Dave]

It’s always good to lay under the trailer once in a while to check for defects or pending disasters or to hide from your spouse. I pick hot days, about 2 pm on a shaded concrete floor wearing a slightly sweat dampened cotton t shirt. It’s amazing what you can see if you look.
Iowa Dave

[ghosthunter]

Originally Posted by Iowa Dave

It’s always good to lay under the trailer once in a while to check for defects or pending disasters or to hide from your spouse. I pick hot days, about 2 pm on a shaded concrete floor wearing a slightly sweat dampened cotton t shirt. It’s amazing what you can see if you look.
Iowa Dave

I agree and practice that often. The insulation covered the problems. In hind sight covering frame with insulation may not be a good process.
But that’s another day.

For tonight I am basking in the good fortune that god oped not to teach me a lesson on the freeway at 60 mph.

[Iowa Dave]

There were recalls on those older lightweight frames on the 17s and the 19s.
We had a 2010 19 that didn’t ever have a problem, but I had it welded with mending plates that Reace sent and he reimbursed me for the welding. ETI was winding down production on the 15s by by the time I started following the forum so I don’t recall if the 15s ever exhibited or were recognized for frame cracking problems. Glad you found it and got it fixed. You were living right today.
Iowa Dave

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by ghosthunter

The trailer frame had broken just behind the front stabilizers. No kidding broke completely off on driver side and over half on passenger side.
I stripped away insulation to expose the break next to the black water line .
Wow I am thanking god tonight. Our camp host knew a portable welder who came right out and he and I leveled the trailer closed the gap ,welded it shut and reinforced it with iron plate.

So I am wondering if the crack as it widen in my driveway put stress on electrical wires?
The main Wire harness runs right along the frame on drivers side.

Didn’t see that coming. Glad you made it to your destination without issue. That was a close call! It’s possible the 12V power issue is related. If your batteries are in the front box the wires leaving were probably put under some serious stress as the box tilted back. Make sure to also check your propane line. I believe they are hard piped from about the front of the shell rearward.

Just curious if the nut I see in the photo is a body mount bolt that goes down through the frame. That’s likely where it would crack due to stress concentration.

[ghosthunter]

Originally Posted by rubicon327

Didn’t see that coming. Glad you made it to your destination without issue. That was a close call! It’s possible the 12V power issue is related. If your batteries are in the front box the wires leaving were probably put under some serious stress as the box tilted back. Make sure to also check your propane line. I believe they are hard piped from about the front of the shell rearward.

Just curious if the nut I see in the photo is a body mount bolt that goes down through the frame. That’s likely where it would crack due to stress concentration.

Yes just what the welder said too.

[dstreight]

FYI/FWIW, our 2014 15A was not apart of the recall. But I keep an eye on it just the same and probably should fab a scab plate and weld it on to be sure...

@ghostgunter: Glad to hear your frame issue didn't lead to a much bigger problem/catastrophe!

[Ron in BC]

Originally Posted by rubicon327

Just curious if the nut I see in the photo is a body mount bolt that goes down through the frame. That’s likely where it would crack due to stress concentration.

I have a nephew in Lyndon, we're almost neighbors.

Glad this happened in a benign way and didn't cause a disaster.

Didn't part of the previous frame remediation include welding "L" brackets on and eliminating the bolt through the frame? That's the way current trailers are made.

Ron