LP Conversion Kit that fits inside Honda Gen

[Chasing Trials]

I saw here I think, from someone who used a LP Conversion Kit for the Honda eu2200i, that fit inside the Generator. Gennconex. It would take up less space & seems like it would be less likely to get damaged that way? I really don't want to ever use gas in my new Generator. Plus, I do have a spare LP line into garage(was to be use for a heater). Never used. Thinking I can use that if ever needed it for a power outage. Would have to ask Company what is needed for that use.


How easy was it to install? Figures, Company closed on weekends.........

[Hawkeye Ed]

Here's a YouTube video from a fellow who installed a Genconnex propane conversion kit in their little Honda generator:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bcE1mptZjuo

I have a Honda EU2200i that I modified with a Hutch Mountain propane kit so it runs on gasoline, propane and natural gas. https://www.hutchmountain.com

It is true that any generator converted to use propane or natural gas will require the use of a "demand regulator," a small pie-plate-sized inline device that regulates the amount of propane or natural gas the generator needs at any given time. The Hutch Mountain kit and similar ones use an external demand regulator, often attached to the propane tank, since there's no room inside the generator for it to fit.

The sales pitch for the Genconnex conversion is that the demand regulator fits inside the generator's case. But to make that space, one must remove the carburetor, fuel pump, and other parts to make room for the demand regulator. Of course, that means you'll never be able to run your generator on gasoline again. As the old saying goes, "You pay your money and you make your choice."

I like the ability to run my Honda on all three fuels; your mileage may vary, as they say.

Ed

[C&G in FL]

The term “demand regulator” is, IMO, misleading. Yes, the typical demand regulator has an appearance of a propane pressure regulator which reduces tank pressure down to a usable 1-inch of water column. But a demand regulator which is placed after the pressure regulator is really an on/off valve with a relatively weak spring which keeps propane from flowing into the generator unless it is running, which creates a vacuum (a sucking action) that keeps the valve open allowing propane to flow into the generator. When the generator’s engine is shut down, there is no more vacuum so the spring shuts the valve and propane stops flowing. If the cylinder did not have a pressure regulator ahead of the demand regulator, the spring would be far to weak to stop propane from flowing. In a sense, the demand regulator is a safety item and a comparison could be made between it and the gas valve on an absorption refrigerator. The refrigerator valve is controlled by heat sensing feedback rather than a vacuum condition.

[C&G in FL]

Originally Posted by C&G in FL

The term “demand regulator” is, IMO, misleading. Yes, the typical demand regulator has an appearance of a propane pressure regulator which reduces tank pressure down to a usable 11-inch of water column. But a demand regulator which is placed after the pressure regulator is really an on/off valve with a relatively weak spring which keeps propane from flowing into the generator unless it is running, which creates a vacuum (a sucking action) that keeps the valve open allowing propane to flow into the generator. When the generator’s engine is shut down, there is no more vacuum so the spring shuts the valve and propane stops flowing. If the cylinder did not have a pressure regulator ahead of the demand regulator, the spring would be far to weak to stop propane from flowing. In a sense, the demand regulator is a safety item and a comparison could be made between it and the gas valve on an absorption refrigerator. The refrigerator valve is controlled by heat sensing feedback rather than a vacuum condition.

Typo error. I meant 11 inches of water column in original post.

[Chasing Trials]

Originally Posted by Hawkeye Ed

Here's a YouTube video from a fellow who installed a Genconnex propane conversion kit in their little Honda generator:

I have a Honda EU2200i that I modified with a Hutch Mountain propane kit so it runs on gasoline, propane and natural gas. https://www.hutchmountain.com

It is true that any generator converted to use propane or natural gas will require the use of a "demand regulator," a small pie-plate-sized inline device that regulates the amount of propane or natural gas the generator needs at any given time. The Hutch Mountain kit and similar ones use an external demand regulator, often attached to the propane tank, since there's no room inside the generator for it to fit.

The sales pitch for the Genconnex conversion is that the demand regulator fits inside the generator's case. But to make that space, one must remove the carburetor, fuel pump, and other parts to make room for the demand regulator. Of course, that means you'll never be able to run your generator on gasoline again. As the old saying goes, "You pay your money and you make your choice."

I like the ability to run my Honda on all three fuels; your mileage may vary, as they say.

Ed

Thanks! I'll watch that. I'm still on the fence on which one. Partly depends on how hard it is to put in/on. Plus Hutch Mt only has 10' hose, vs getting a 12' from Genconnex. Which is what I think I need to get to Escape's LP outlet from either back of truck(10' might make it), or trailer hitch rack(not).

[Iowa Dave]

You could probably rig up an extension hose. Like another ten feet or so. If you can find an experienced fittings and propane person they could steer you in the right direction. The length of hose should not make a difference In performance as long as tank flow is adequate and the inner diameters match. Might as well have plenty as opposed to just long enough.
Iowa Dave