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12-13-2023, 11:46 AM
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#41
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Raleigh, North Carolina
Trailer: 2016 21
Posts: 84
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MVA
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I'd second this recommendation.......I used one while winterizing this year, and you would not believe the amount of "stuff". calcification, it flushed out. Kind of shocking.
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12-13-2023, 01:00 PM
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#42
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Tulsa, Oklahoma
Trailer: 2012 E19
Posts: 1,757
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I am trying to figure out my current "lucky" water heater. Bought this trailer in March of this year, and the previous owner told me it still had the original anode rod which was in fine condition. Having had trailers with anode rods that corroded away in just 2 years' time, I was skeptical so I pulled the rod when I got home and, sure enough, it looked almost pristine.
A couple weeks ago I winterized and pulled the anode again. Now it had a few bumps of buildup here and there on it, which mostly could be broken away and brushed off by hand, and otherwise the rod isn't eaten away at all.
I'm not complaining one bit, but I am starting to wonder if I won the water heater/anode lottery!
__________________
Losing weight puts one at much greater risk of becoming thin.
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12-13-2023, 01:08 PM
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#43
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Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2022
Location: Clarksville, Virginia
Trailer: 2021 Escape 19
Posts: 3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AnnieG
I believe the socket size to drain the RV heater is 27 mm or 11/16th hex is this correct?
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1 1/16 is what I use.
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12-16-2023, 04:01 PM
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#44
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Site Team
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Mid Left Coast, California
Trailer: 2014 Escape 21
Posts: 5,156
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike G
I am trying to figure out my current "lucky" water heater. Bought this trailer in March of this year, and the previous owner told me it still had the original anode rod which was in fine condition. Having had trailers with anode rods that corroded away in just 2 years' time, I was skeptical so I pulled the rod when I got home and, sure enough, it looked almost pristine.
A couple weeks ago I winterized and pulled the anode again. Now it had a few bumps of buildup here and there on it, which mostly could be broken away and brushed off by hand, and otherwise the rod isn't eaten away at all.
I'm not complaining one bit, but I am starting to wonder if I won the water heater/anode lottery!
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A) it could be an aluminum rod, or B, the previous owners lived where there's very soft water. mine, using magnesium rods, last about 2 years.
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12-17-2023, 08:49 AM
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#45
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2021
Location: Richmond, Virginia
Trailer: 2022 Escape 21C
Posts: 269
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron in BC
Yes, that's correct.
Be sure to open a hot water tap first to relieve the back pressure.
Ron
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Yep, otherwise you might get sprayed head to toe with tank sediment. Ask me how I know?
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12-17-2023, 09:59 AM
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#46
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Site Team
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Portland, Oregon
Trailer: 2014 Escape 5.0 TA
Posts: 11,053
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hugh
Yep, otherwise you might get sprayed head to toe with tank sediment. Ask me how I know?
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That's almost like a right of passage.
Too, be sure to stand to the side at the last moment you pull the anode. OR, you'll fill your shoes...
__________________
Donna D.
Ten Forward
2014 Escape 5.0TA
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12-17-2023, 10:18 AM
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#47
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Benton County, Iowa
Trailer: 2013 Escape 21 Classic Number 6, pulled by 2018 Toyota Highlander
Posts: 8,262
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And your first grade teacher will ask if anyone else needs to use the restroom
Iowa Dave
__________________
Ain’t no trouble jacking a double Burma Shave
Dave
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12-17-2023, 10:19 AM
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#48
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Madison area, Wisconsin
Trailer: 2016 Escape 19 Chevy 2012 Express 3500 Van
Posts: 1,763
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Some sediment, but other stuff too comes out.
This is a crude description.
A water heater sacrificial anode of either magnesium or aluminium "sacrifices" itself and produces a flaking oxide of the metal and dissolving. Anodes are more "active" metals than steel. That is what protects the steel interior portion of the water heater. I've read our heaters are glass lined, so there may not be much exposed steel to corrode, but there is some, likely at water inlets, outlets and the drain fittings.
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12-17-2023, 10:26 AM
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#49
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Site Team
Join Date: Nov 2021
Location: Framingham, Massachusetts
Trailer: 2019 Escape 21C, NTU April 2022
Posts: 1,038
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Donna D.
That's almost like a right of passage.
Too, be sure to stand to the side at the last moment you pull the anode. OR, you'll fill your shoes...
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Funny thing: I closed the hot-water-heater bypass valves—to bypass the heater, maybe the term is 'opened'?—then used the air compressor to blow any water out of the lines. But when I went to take out the anode, got a blast of (then) cold water. Not sure why there was still pressure in the heater, which was isolated from the system.
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12-17-2023, 10:38 AM
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#50
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Arvada, Colorado
Trailer: 2015 E'21 - 'Velocity'. Tow: Toyota Tacoma V6, 4X4, manual.
Posts: 1,692
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrLynn
Funny thing: I closed the hot-water-heater bypass valves—to bypass the heater, maybe the term is 'opened'?—then used the air compressor to blow any water out of the lines. But when I went to take out the anode, got a blast of (then) cold water. Not sure why there was still pressure in the heater, which was isolated from the system.
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Every fall, as part of the ritual, I open all the inside faucets, then remove the anode on the water heater - and get blasted with water and sediments. It never fails, so I suspect there is a check valve somewhere in the system that keeps some pressure in the tank. Then, in the process of washing out remaining sediments, another face full and soaked shoes. At least I have learned to do this chore on a warm sunny day - but that is all I have learned.
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