Anyone replaced a power cord hatch with a SmartPlug inlet?

[Hawkeye Ed]

I flinch every time I pull our 5's power cord out of its round cord hatch, wondering if it's about to snag part of our underseat power center, plumbing, pump or hot water heater. We didn't order the optional removable power cord when we bought our trailer so it's not that easy for us to install a www.smartplug.com inlet.

Our cord hatch is 5+ inches wide:

The SmartPlug inlet is about 1 1/2 inches smaller:

Any ideas how to retrofit the SmartPlug inlet and make it look nice? SmartPlug customer service says they have no adapter plates.

Ed

[Ron in BC]

I've had multiple removable cords but this time I decided that there's some merit to the argument that only pulling out a few feet of cord and not getting a whole cord wet or muddy when you only need a few feet.

I hear you about shoving the cord back into a space with a lot of electrical stuff. I built a box with a lid to contain the cord. Never had to remove the lid to sort out the cord. It coils up just fine and doesn't touch anything else in the vicinity.

A small tote the right size would save building a box.

Just posted this as a alternate solution.

Ron

[Hawkeye Ed]

Originally Posted by Ron in BC

I've had multiple removable cords but this time I decided that there's some merit to the argument that only pulling out a few feet of cord and not getting a whole cord wet or muddy when you only need a few feet.

I hear you about shoving the cord back into a space with a lot of electrical stuff. I built a box with a lid to contain the cord. Never had to remove the lid to sort out the cord. It coils up just fine and doesn't touch anything else in the vicinity.

A small tote the right size would save building a box.

Just posted this as a alternate solution.

Ron

Smart idea. I see you fastened the sides of your box to the floor with L brackets. I've always been reluctant to put holes or screws into the floor of my 5. How thick do you think the floor is and how long a screw do you think is OK. (Wouldn't want to hit an under-body tank or something serious.)

[oldwave]

Originally Posted by Hawkeye Ed

I flinch every time I pull our 5's power cord out of its round cord hatch, wondering if it's about to snag part of our underseat power center, plumbing, pump or hot water heater. We didn't order the optional removable power cord when we bought our trailer so it's not that easy for us to install a www.smartplug.com inlet.

Our cord hatch is 5+ inches wide: Attachment 69750

The SmartPlug inlet is about 1 1/2 inches smaller: Attachment 69751

Any ideas how to retrofit the SmartPlug inlet and make it look nice? SmartPlug customer service says they have no adapter plates.

Ed

A local machine shop could make you a steel plate with the old screw holes and the new ones. Someone with a little cad skills to draw it up. I replaced my twist lock with a smart plug and wouldn’t go back, much superior to the twist lock. I’m a bit obsessive about making my hook ups quick as I also put quick hose releases on my water inlet , filter, and water pressure regulator. I only have the tighten on water connector to the spigot. Saves 10 minutes at least.


I

[Mike G]

Originally Posted by oldwave

A local machine shop could make you a steel plate with the old screw holes and the new ones. Someone with a little cad skills to draw it up. I replaced my twist lock with a smart plug and wouldn’t go back, much superior to the twist lock.

Good idea about having a machine shop make something. I was about to comment that my twist lock appears larger than the smart plug and might be a more straightforward replacement. But why do you consider the smart plug "much superior"? It doesn't appear to hold the cord in place as securely as a twist lock, and the latter really only takes 1 second extra to turn the collar. (If I were so pressed for time that losing 1 second is a problem, I have bigger problems in my life! )

[oldwave]

Originally Posted by Mike G

Good idea about having a machine shop make something. I was about to comment that my twist lock appears larger than the smart plug and might be a more straightforward replacement. But why do you consider the smart plug "much superior"? It doesn't appear to hold the cord in place as securely as a twist lock, and the latter really only takes 1 second extra to turn the collar. (If I were so pressed for time that losing 1 second is a problem, I have bigger problems in my life! )

The big advantage is the larger contact area of the blades versus the twisted tongs. Also my original twist locks collar was cross threaded and was not locking the connector well.
The time saving was referring to the water connectors lol

[Ron in BC]

Originally Posted by Hawkeye Ed

Smart idea. I see you fastened the sides of your box to the floor with L brackets. I've always been reluctant to put holes or screws into the floor of my 5. How thick do you think the floor is and how long a screw do you think is OK. (Wouldn't want to hit an under-body tank or something serious.)

No worries at all attaching things to the floor. I screwed my Springfield pedestal to the floor. Actually I use something called nut serts, larger diameter and stronger than screws, but not problem with screws protruding 1/2" into the floor. Use a piece of tape on the drill bit to control the depth.

As I said, when I was finished my project and used a lid from a tote, I then realized that I could have used a tote to begin with. The story of many of my projects. Actually a tote could be double side taped to the floor without any attachments.

It all comes down to whether you prefer using the whole cord everytime you want power or are happy to only use what you need.

Ron

[Mike Lewis]

Originally Posted by Ron in BC

As I said, when I was finished my project and used a lid from a tote, I then realized that I could have used a tote to begin with. The story of many of my projects. Actually a tote could be double side taped to the floor without any attachments.

It all comes down to whether you prefer using the whole cord everytime you want power or are happy to only use what you need.

Ron

Ron- What dimensions for the box/tote did you use?

[TTMartin]

Originally Posted by Hawkeye Ed

I flinch every time I pull our 5's power cord out of its round cord hatch, wondering if it's about to snag part of our underseat power center, plumbing, pump or hot water heater. We didn't order the optional removable power cord when we bought our trailer so it's not that easy for us to install a www.smartplug.com inlet.

Our cord hatch is 5+ inches wide: Attachment 69750

The SmartPlug inlet is about 1 1/2 inches smaller: Attachment 69751

Any ideas how to retrofit the SmartPlug inlet and make it look nice? SmartPlug customer service says they have no adapter plates.

Ed

Why not just use a standard twist lock power cord like is optional on the Escape? Serious question what's so special about the 'Smart Plug'?

ParkPower 30ARVKIT.BLK 30 Amp RV Conversion Kit

[Ron in BC]

Originally Posted by Mike Lewis

Ron- What dimensions for the box/tote did you use?

Hi Mike,

The distance from the wall to the rear of the converter determined the width, 16". The length and height, 19" and 9" were TLAR.

Not to promote the detachable/fixed cord debate but for those going with a fixed cord it really is an improvement to contain it.

Ron

[Chasing Trials]

I just was "under there" in the New E19. I built a cubby for one dog, at the under bed front(take a door off) then boxed it off with a Very ridged 1/2 insulation I have(box off hot water pump, etc.),tied in a piece of 6" high vinyl baseboard stuff, curved it, to lead the cord to curl, hopefully(watch pushing, to see if I can find the curve it naturally has). I still want the back back against the wall free for rolled up long things (mats mostly). I laid a floor of the 1/2" inner locking mats over the whole area, helps keep things from sliding around. I also put a spare big dog crate pan down, at the hatch side. confine Heavy things needed a lot & if I have to toss things in wet. I have to save my TV load weight for metal Exercise pens & stuff that will not fit through hatch. I hope to design & get a custom Hitch carrier for the Escape for the pens & & a bike. Will have to move the spare up under the tongue. I'll have to see if I can get a photo.

[Franram]

I have installed the Marinco stainless steel 30amp outlet on both casita's I've owned. Dealing with that stiff cord in the side door with crazy making. I also install a PI EMS box inline with the cord. I wanted stainless due to uv deterioration to plastic outlets. I had a smart plug on my last Lazy Daze TK and did not like it. Mainly because the cost of plug, outlet and cord.