Reinforced walls - add to strength of trailer?

[RedDog]

Do the reinforced wall options add anything to the overall strength of the trailer, or just mainly add to the ability to mount objects/options? If it adds to the overall strength will probably go with them, prior posts have estimating about $1000 US upgrade. Thanks

[Centex]

FWIW (1) it sure seems to me that the far, far vast majority of Escape Owners reporting here have suffered no 'trailer strength issues' for lack of 'reinforced' walls. I read of nothing but folks satisfied with ETI's basic construction after many miles of happy use on all kinds of roads - IOW, all indications over the years are that the standard Escape construction is up to the task without additional 'reinforcement'.

FWIW (2) here's a recent thread touching on the subject of the necessity (or lack thereof) of the 'reinforcement' for certain types of mods, including a post (#6) offering an opinion on 'reinforced wall herd mentality', maybe of interest:

https://www.escapeforum.org/forums/f...mma-18525.html

As a general comment on structures, I'll offer the 'engineer's opinion' that a framed wall with horizontal blocking, skinned on even one-side with relatively thin plywood (ETI's standard minimum interior wall construction practice) makes for a very rigid partition, highly resistant to 'racking', while minimizing unnecessary weight.

[Ron in BC]

You only got that partly right. It isn't just reinforced wall herd mentality it's options herd mentality.

1. I doubt that few folks have driven on as rough roads as we have, multiple trips on the unfinished Mex 5 comes to mind. Our most major damage, one cabinet door came open and one hinge broke.

2. I've watched over the years as various options became more and more ordered because everyone else was now ordering them and folks seem to be afraid to not order all the options other folks, for various reasons, were ordering.

Ron

[padlin]

Get them only if you want to mount things on the walls in question and can't make due with the 1x2 studs in the corners. There may be a stud or 2 inside the walls. if you can find them. You of course need to figure out which walls being reinforced may be of use to you down the road. I'm taking it you can still pick which walls as opposed to getting them all done. ETI used to provide a layout sheet marked with the ones you could pick from, it also showed the electrical outlet positioning.

I don't see where any of the reinforced walls are needed for strength, it might add some strength, but not to the point you'll notice. I wouldn't get it for that reason.

[tdf-texas]

Originally Posted by RedDog

Do the reinforced wall options add anything to the overall strength of the trailer, or just mainly add to the ability to mount objects/options? If it adds to the overall strength will probably go with them, prior posts have estimating about $1000 US upgrade. Thanks

It depends on what you are trying to accomplish with the reinforcement.

Rigidity of the trailer structure is increased somewhat depending on where the reinforced walls are installed but is really not needed as the shell of an Escape is fairly strong.

If you are trying to reduce bowing of the walls when pressed upon, reinforcement does aid considerably. I optioned for the reinforced wall in my 21 for the wall between the bathroom and the bed as that wall flexed a lot without it. The bathroom fiberglass wall gave so much without reinforcement - I feared it would create stress cracks in the gelcoat.

[Patandlinda]

When we ordered in 2013 , first item we wanted for trailer . Why ? Living in earthquake country after the big 1994 one damaged extensively our home . Hired a structural and geo tech engineer . After testing whole home including coring our concrete in many area’s told us in their report to shear wall the whole home. So after all stucco removed on exterior the whole home is shear walled , plywood on the wood studs . So all walls in trailer we could have extra ply they are . The structural engineer we hired was used by our city and commercial . That report was our lawyer to fight State Farm from paying our claim . Total weight is very little in our mind . Walls are strong , no worry where to hang anything . That is how our trailer is built and glad it is . Pat

[TTMartin]

Originally Posted by RedDog

Do the reinforced wall options add anything to the overall strength of the trailer, or just mainly add to the ability to mount objects/options? If it adds to the overall strength will probably go with them, prior posts have estimating about $1000 US upgrade. Thanks

I'm not sure where that $1000 figure is coming from. It is $80 to reinforce a wall, and for an Escape 19, I believe there are 6 'walls'.

Wall 1 is between the stove and the bed, Wall 2 between the bed and fridge, Wall 5 is the bathroom wall opposite the door. Walls 3&4 I believe are either side of the wardrobe, and Wall 6 I believe is the bathroom wall on the dinette side.



I reinforced Wall 1 and Wall 5. Wall 1 because I was told by ETI it was required to be reinforced to add the counter extension on the bed side of that wall. And Wall 5 because in the future I may add a handicap style grab rail on the interior of that wall in the bathroom. It's also interesting to note that I also added a counter top extension on the bed side of the fridge wall, but, that did not require extra reinforcement.

To my knowledge reinforcing walls add little if any structural strength. Each reinforced wall does add approximately 25 lbs to the dry weight to the trailer reducing your payload capacity.

[Ron in BC]

Originally Posted by TTMartin

I reinforced Wall 1 and Wall 5. Wall 1 because I was told by ETI it was required to be reinforced to add the counter extension on the bed side of that wall. It's also interesting to not that I also added a counter top extension on the bed side of the fridge wall, but, that did not require extra reinforcement.

Interesting because there's solid horizontal wood at counter level on the counter side by the bed.

Ron

[TTMartin]

Originally Posted by Ron in BC

Interesting because there's solid horizontal wood at counter level on the counter side by the bed.

Ron

I was surprised too.

I wanted the 8" x 18" counter top extensions on both ends of the bed to use as 'night stands', regardless of which way I ended up sleeping.

I asked about adding the counter top extension on the bed side of the fridge wall first and it was just the cost of the counter top extension, and then when I asked about adding it to the stove wall, I was told that wall required reinforcement.

Now, I can hang heavier stuff on the stove side of the wall, so It doesn't bother me that wall is reinforced.

[steve dunham]

As we age ; I wish we would have reinforced the bathroom / bed wall in our 21 to assist in mounting safety equipment such as grab bars in the bathroom

Ron made a good point when it comes to herd mentality and options
IE ; Why is an EMS a must have option when the intended use of the trailer is boondocking in the wilderness without hookups & A/C , or why is solar a must have when you only camp at KOA’s
I know on our Escape we have options that serve no useful purpose except for bragging rights when sitting around a campfire.

[TTMartin]

Originally Posted by steve dunham

Why is an EMS a must have option when the intended use of the trailer is boondocking in the wilderness without hookups or A/C

I have a portable EMS that I used primarily with the generator on my old trailer. I got a built in EMS with my new Escape.

It prevents modulating voltage when the generator is running out of gas from damaging things like the A/C compressor.

Once voltage falls out of its perimeters, it keeps the power shut off for a few minutes. That's the reason for the delay when you first plug it in. It's not that it is particularly analyzing anything, it's just preventing those momentary off / on moments that can be so hard on compressors.

[steve dunham]

Originally Posted by TTMartin

I have a portable EMS that I used primarily with the generator on my old trailer. I got a built in EMS with my new Escape.

It prevents modulating voltage when the generator is running out of gas from damaging things like the A/C compressor.

Once voltage falls out of its perimeters, it keeps the power shut off for a few minutes. That's the reason for the delay when you first plug it in. It's not that it is particularly analyzing anything, it's just preventing those momentary off / on moments that can be so hard on compressors.

I guess it depends on how you describe boondock / backwoods camping
For me that means camping in the woods without utilities / water / sewer / generator / cell phone / electronics ,etc
So I would have no need for an EMS
I think an EMS may serve a purpose for some but not for my normal style of camping
I fully understand the functions of an EMS but for us it’s a solution in search of a problem!
We have several options on our Escape that were purchased for our Escape based on advice given on this forum . The advice was sincerely given but in hindsight what is a valuable necessity for some is a useless luxury for others .

[TTMartin]

Originally Posted by steve dunham

I guess it depends on how you describe boondock / backwoods camping
For me that means camping in the woods without utilities / water / sewer / generator / cell phone / electronics ,etc
So I would have no need for an EMS
I think an EMS may serve a purpose for some but not for my normal style of camping
I fully understand the functions of an EMS but for us it’s a solution in search of a problem!
We have several options on our Escape that were purchased for our Escape based on advice given on this forum . The advice was sincerely given but in hindsight what is a valuable necessity for some is a useless luxury for others .

Do you keep your Escape at home and plugged in?

[steve dunham]

Originally Posted by TTMartin

Do you keep your Escape at home and plugged in?

No ; Our Escape is stored on 20 acres of woodland we own approx 10 mile from our main residence .

[Ron in BC]

Originally Posted by TTMartin

Do you keep your Escape at home and plugged in?

Why would that make a difference? My house doesn't have an EMS, my small A/C in the house isn't EMS protected. I've never had EMS on any boat or trailer and I've never had a problem. Even in Turkish boatyards where, to say the least, the electricity supply was a little sketchy.

Ron

[TTMartin]

Originally Posted by Ron in BC

Why would that make a difference? My house doesn't have an EMS, my small A/C in the house isn't EMS protected. I've never had EMS on any boat or trailer and I've never had a problem. Even in Turkish boatyards where, to say the least, the electricity supply was a little sketchy.

Ron

I was never killed because the houses i lived in for the the first 33+ years of my life not having a GFCI in them. That doesn't mean GFCIs aren't a good idea, nor does it mean that other people weren't killed that wouldn't have been had there been a GFCI.

[Ron in BC]

Originally Posted by steve dunham

As we age ; I wish we would have reinforced the bathroom / bed wall in our 21 to assist in mounting safety equipment such as grab bars in the bathroom

That presents an interesting problem. Offhand, without fully scanning that wall I think that there's a good possibility that a grab bar could still be mounted.

I have photos and inside details of every wall in the 19 and 21 except for that one wall in the 21.

I think that there might be two possible options for installing a grab bar. It seems to be that there may be vertical framing in the middle of the wall. If further investigation proved that correct then it would be pretty simple to add a secure grab bar.

The alternative would be the same as if you wanted to install some marine fitting on a cored deck. The hole would be drilled oversize and a rigid compression sleeve placed in the hole with the bolt in the center.

I guess the first step would be to ask ETI for a photo of the wall before the liner goes in.

Adding extra weight on spec goes against my nature. I'd rather add lightness. That might be why I removed the rear seats in my F150. 70lbs. out, 70lbs. "free" more carrying capacity.

Ron

[Donna D.]

Originally Posted by Ron in BC

Why would that make a difference? My house doesn't have an EMS, my small A/C in the house isn't EMS protected. I've never had EMS on any boat or trailer and I've never had a problem. Even in Turkish boatyards where, to say the least, the electricity supply was a little sketchy.

Ron

Our homes aren't protected by EMS systems, but it's always prudent to unplug appliances during times of possible power surges.

I had a refrigerator get fried in my sticks 'n bricks a number of years ago.

I have a battery backup and surge protector system for my laptops/computer here at home. Certainly don't want to fry these.

[steve dunham]

Originally Posted by TTMartin

I was never killed because the houses i lived in for the the first 33+ years of my life not having a GFCI in them. That doesn't mean GFCIs aren't a good idea, nor does it mean that other people weren't killed that wouldn't have been had there been a GFCI.

A GFCI is designed to protect human life , An EMS is designed to protect equipment
Hardly the same thing and they are not equal or equivalent !!

[TTMartin]

Originally Posted by steve dunham

A GFCI is designed to protect human life , An EMS is designed to protect equipment
Hardly the same thing and they are not equal or equivalent !!

The fact someone never had a problem that would have been helped by a EMS, and the fact I was never killed because there wasn't an GFCI are both Strawman arguments. So in that regard they are 'equal'.