What did you do for your Escape today.....

[oldwave]

My cinema cameras do not have a 12 volt charger available as well as some other stuff I use remote.

[Ron in BC]

Originally Posted by cpaharley2008

So other than microwave, everything is on 12V, which I understand....we do not get a microwave in the Escape and use at home is sparse.

For the first time since about 1990 we don't have an inverter in the trailer. Strangely enough at home it's in use morning, noon and night but when we're on the road we just don't seem to need it. In the "old" days, pre-lithium, heavy use of the microwave could be problematic. But now with lithium it's more feasible than ever.

I find the truck inverter very handy to do things that we normally used a trailer inverter for. Things like 110V charging a laptop or handheld radios. Things that don't have USB charging.

Ron

[Patandlinda]

Originally Posted by rubicon327

When you see a shiny bright 2020 Escape in a campground you realize how overdue the trailer is for a full wax job. Broke it up but spent quite a few hours over a couple days. Wow that was a lot of work but it does look fantastic. Used a Snap-On variable speed rotary polisher at about 1800 RPM, 3M Marine Restorer / Wax and a 7” wool pad. Had light oxidation so the restorer helped bring it back like new. They did a really nice job on the gel coat when this was manufactured back in 2009.
https://www.amazon.com/3M-Marine-LIQ.../dp/B002IVCP3Y
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Looking real nice Dave ! Pat

[Perry Butler]

Originally Posted by cpaharley2008

Just a thought here, perhaps it is a generation gap or something else but I fail to see the need to have an inverter to convert 12v to 120v. ......
.................................................. .........
I understand there are medical devices that need one or the other, but otherwise? Maybe I need more coffee......

In our case we need a toaster.

Our computers and phones charge on USB and we don't have or nor want a microwave, but we love toasted bread and bagels.

Yes, it sounds foolish, but then again we have a $55,000 truck pulling a $45,000 camper that most friends don't understand, plus another $25,000+ in bicycles that only one set of friends understand. We don't have any debt and don't plan on leaving our children much.

Enjoy,

Perry

[Telescopist]

Originally Posted by oldwave

I felt no hostility from Jim just his opinion on microwave and inverter use. He didn’t call me any names just expressed his viewpoint. My needs are different and in fact the install will be successful for all the help I’ve gotten from others on the forum . Many times help from Jim himself on other issues. Opinions are fine attacks are not

Jim wasn't attacking, I agree. He's helped me out a ton over the past 2 years. Basically I relied on his build sheet when I ordered my 21. That said I did purchase a VOLTCUBE 400W Power Inverter. Credit to John in Santa Cruz for the suggestion. I need it to charge up my laptop which sends commands to my telescope. I only need it at remote sites.

Otherwise solar and propane takes care of the rest of our needs. Same with Jim.

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by oldwave

Began my inverter project

Looking good! Glad to see that Class T fuse. Post some more pics as you go. What inverter are you installing?

[oldwave]

Wired in a solar disconnect. I left it out of the dinrail box because it was so bulky and wasn’t necessary given wher it’s mounted . I just had to cut out about two inches of the solar cable to insert it in line .
The other picture is the Progressive dynamics 1800 watt inverter that has a built in transfer switch. It was 200 cheaper than the go power 1500 watt and included the transfer switch . About a 300 savings and more power. Also way cheaper than the Xantrex that is a popular choice. Though it’s not a charger. Next step to run the ac to the sub panel and move circuits . If and when I got to lithium I’ll replace my built in converter charger with the PD version that people like. At that time I may upgrade the dc feed back to the battery to 6 gauge. Thanks to TDf Texas as well as other electric advice from members. The wiring diagrams are great.

[Perry Butler]

Originally Posted by oldwave

Began my inverter project

I'm looking at your inverter install with keen interest. I want to have ours installed by the end of October. I'm slowly ordering product.

I've been using Explorist Life for advice. I've made a schematic, but I've planned a 300?T fuse between the batteries and the battery switch, with a 300? amp mega fuse between the battery switch and the inverter. You have the T fuse between the switch and the inverter. The question mark means I've yet to decide on fuse size.

Depending on where I look, those two fuses are turned around. Any reason why you chose to put the T fuse between the switch and the inverter?

Enjoy,

Perry

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by Perryb67

I'm looking at your inverter install with keen interest. I want to have ours installed by the end of October. I'm slowly ordering product.

I've been using Explorist Life for advice. I've made a schematic, but I've planned a 300?T fuse between the batteries and the battery switch, with a 300? amp mega fuse between the battery switch and the inverter. You have the T fuse between the switch and the inverter. The question mark means I've yet to decide on fuse size.

Depending on where I look, those two fuses are turned around. Any reason why you chose to put the T fuse between the switch and the inverter?

Enjoy,

Perry

Perry: Wondering how you can tell from his picture that fuse is in that position? Also what is the rationale of two different fuse types on the same wire? FWIW when I did my inverter/charger install my class T fuse is between the battery and the disconnect switch. I put it there because AM solar has it placed there on their schematics and I had no reason to question it.

[oldwave]

Originally Posted by Perryb67

I'm looking at your inverter install with keen interest. I want to have ours installed by the end of October. I'm slowly ordering product.

I've been using Explorist Life for advice. I've made a schematic, but I've planned a 300?T fuse between the batteries and the battery switch, with a 300? amp mega fuse between the battery switch and the inverter. You have the T fuse between the switch and the inverter. The question mark means I've yet to decide on fuse size.

Depending on where I look, those two fuses are turned around. Any reason why you chose to put the T fuse between the switch and the inverter?

Enjoy,

Perry

I’ve used his resource also. I had it the other way around as you described and changed it when I thought about it. . It’s battery, fuse, switch and then inverter now.
The picture might not have caught up. I though about using the victron distributor but seemed not worth it. I’m using a 200 amp fuse as the inverter is 1800 watts. I think that’s what progressive dynamics called for .
I’m not sure a second fuse is needed after the switch? For the house feed I still have the 40 amp fuse on the 8 gauge, though I may change that to 6 gauge and add an anl fuse .

[MoBar]

I totally understand the bicycles part!

[Ops]

Originally Posted by Perryb67

...Yes, it sounds foolish, but then again we have a $55,000 truck pulling a $45,000 camper that most friends don't understand, plus another $25,000+ in bicycles that only one set of friends understand. We don't have any debt and don't plan on leaving our children much. ...

That last sentence is exactly how we feel.

[Vermilye]

Today I finally got around to installing an internal Texas Fan switch. While I don't turn it on all that often (it only helps cool the refrigerator at temperatures over 90°F), I got tired of opening the outside lower refrigerator panel to access the switch at the location Escape placed it. I also needed to post a note on the refrigerator door reminding me that it was on since it is temperature controlled and is usually off in the morning. Escape has a BIG NOTE across the top of the refrigerator telling me the fan must be off when traveling. If the fan comes on while the trailer is moving it sometimes blows a thermal fuse, shutting down the refrigerator until replaced. I used a lighted switch to make it easy to tell when it is on.

[WanderBred]

We had no carpet installed in our trailer and it's like foam board underneath the bed area.
So I put laminate flooring all along in there and here's a picture.

[Vermilye]

Today's project (10/3/21) was to upgrade the solar controller. While I'm not a fan of flexible solar panels (at least glued to the roof), I decided to reduce the storage footprint and weight of my 160 watt solar panel with a folding 300 watt Dokio suitcase model. Since the combination of the rooftop 320 watts & old portable topped out the Victron 100/30, I switched to a Victron 100/50. Of course it wasn't a simple switch - I needed to upgrade the wire size (now #6 welding cable) and the output fuse block (now a 60 amp marine circuit breaker). I also added a better tie point for paralleling the rooftop & portable panels. Not a lot to see, but here is a photo of the new controller:

[Greggo]

Replaced the leaky OEM faucet.

[oldwave]

Originally Posted by Vermilye

Today's project (10/3/21) was to upgrade the solar controller. While I'm not a fan of flexible solar panels (at least glued to the roof), I decided to reduce the storage footprint and weight of my 160 watt solar panel with a folding 300 watt Dokio suitcase model. Since the combination of the rooftop 320 watts & old portable topped out the Victron 100/30, I switched to a Victron 100/50. Of course it wasn't a simple switch - I needed to upgrade the wire size (now #6 welding cable) and the output fuse block (now a 60 amp marine circuit breaker). I also added a better tie point for paralleling the rooftop & portable panels. Not a lot to see, but here is a photo of the new controller:

Be interested in your impression of the new panel

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by WanderBred

We had no carpet installed in our trailer and it's like foam board underneath the bed area.
So I put laminate flooring all along in there and here's a picture.

Nicely done.

[Vermilye]

Originally Posted by oldwave

Be interested in your impression of the new panel

While I haven't connected it to the trailer yet, one demerit is no eyelets or enough border on the case to find a practical way to attach it to a frame. It will need something to stand up to the Quartzsite wind. I am putting together a 3/4"PVC pipe frame & will need to come up with a mounting method.

[rubicon327]

Put a stronger Draw-Tite full frame receiver on the Gen4 4Runner. While the V8 already has one the V6 comes with a hitch bolted to the rear crossmember and not suitable for weight distribution per Toyota. This was the first step before adding an Equal-i-zer weight distribution setup. Never easy with an older vehicle. Good thing I bought a thread chaser kit to clean up the fine threaded weld nuts inside the frame and had a Dremel with cut off discs to take care of a couple bolts. Also dropped the spare tire and had to use a bottle jack and lumber to spread the forward most section of the receiver to line up with the front frame holes. Quite a bit of work but happy how it turned out.