What did you do for your Escape today.....

[Dave Walter]

In preparation for winter, I scrubbed out the interiors of the 19' and 15B, winterized the plumbing systems (blow out lines with air and place RV antifreeze in traps/drains), and topped up the 6V batteries in both trailers with water. I noticed that the anode in the hot water heater of the 15B had broken off but I was unable to fish the broken bits out of the tank (any suggestions from the forum?). Also noticed that the plastic door holder on the 15B had snapped off and needed replacing. I put an order in on Saturday afternoon on Amazon for replacement anodes for both trailers and for a replacement door catch for the 15B, and by Sunday evening the package was delivered to our door. That was impressive! Will have to install the anodes and the door catch next weekend, wash the exteriors of both trailers and then cover them up for the winter. I am hoping to come up with a solution for installing the door catch that allows me to repair it without re-riveting the holder.

[Patandlinda]

Originally Posted by Dave Walter

In preparation for winter, I scrubbed out the interiors of the 19' and 15B, winterized the plumbing systems (blow out lines with air and place RV antifreeze in traps/drains), and topped up the 6V batteries in both trailers with water. I noticed that the anode in the hot water heater of the 15B had broken off but I was unable to fish the broken bits out of the tank (any suggestions from the forum?). Also noticed that the plastic door holder on the 15B had snapped off and needed replacing. I put an order in on Saturday afternoon on Amazon for replacement anodes for both trailers and for a replacement door catch for the 15B, and by Sunday evening the package was delivered to our door. That was impressive! Will have to install the anodes and the door catch next weekend, wash the exteriors of both trailers and then cover them up for the winter. I am hoping to come up with a solution for installing the door catch that allows me to repair it without re-riveting the holder.

Hi you are ahead of me ! Need to wash and wax the trailer and get the bearings done ! Get yourself a stainless holder and it will last ! Pat

[Dave Walter]

Originally Posted by rubicon327

Put a stronger Draw-Tite full frame receiver on the Gen4 4Runner. While the V8 already has one the V6 comes with a hitch bolted to the rear crossmember and not suitable for weight distribution per Toyota. This was the first step before adding an Equal-i-zer weight distribution setup. Never easy with an older vehicle. Good thing I bought a thread chaser kit to clean up the fine threaded weld nuts inside the frame and had a Dremel with cut off discs to take care of a couple bolts. Also dropped the spare tire and had to use a bottle jack and lumber to spread the forward most section of the receiver to line up with the front frame holes. Quite a bit of work but happy how it turned out.

A 4Runner? And somehow I thought that you were a Jeep guy!

[Ron in BC]

Originally Posted by Dave Walter

I noticed that the anode in the hot water heater of the 15B had broken off but I was unable to fish the broken bits out of the tank (any suggestions from the forum?).

Water drain and blow out day for me too.

I use this "grabber" tool for grabbing things in hard to reach places. It fits in the tank opening and certainly grabs my time for replacement anode firmly.

Ron

[Dave Walter]

Originally Posted by Ron in BC

Water drain and blow out day for me too.

I use this "grabber" tool for grabbing things in hard to reach places. It fits in the tank opening and certainly grabs my time for replacement anode firmly.

Ron

Thanks Ron. Unfortunately, I do not have a little grabber like yours. Maybe I will take a trip down to Princess Auto tomorrow and see what they may have.

[Eggscape]

I also winterized our trailer by blowing air in via the city port then sucking antifreeze up from below. Best $5 bucks I spent on the trailer all year.

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by Dave Walter

A 4Runner? And somehow I thought that you were a Jeep guy!

Dave: I had an old Wrangler for many years and several Cherokees. Worked on many others with friends including an ‘86 CJ-7 that my buddy still has. Always loved the Rubicon’s. Eyeing up the new Gladiator but don’t own one currently.

[Vermilye]

Originally Posted by Vermilye

Today's project (10/3/21) was to upgrade the solar controller. While I'm not a fan of flexible solar panels (at least glued to the roof), I decided to reduce the storage footprint and weight of my 160 watt solar panel with a folding 300 watt Dokio suitcase model. Since the combination of the rooftop 320 watts & old portable topped out the Victron 100/30, I switched to a Victron 100/50. Of course it wasn't a simple switch - I needed to upgrade the wire size (now #6 welding cable) and the output fuse block (now a 60 amp marine circuit breaker). I also added a better tie point for paralleling the rooftop & portable panels. Not a lot to see, but here is a photo of the new controller:

Additional info:

After firing things back up, everything worked, but I discovered an interesting difference between the 100/30 & the 100/50. The Bluetooth signal from the Victron 100/50 is much weaker than from the 100/30. So weak, I can't read it from the truck. Since I like to check on how the charging process is going while on the road, I looked for a solution. Of course Victron has one; all you need to do is pay an additional $49.30 for a Victron Energy VE.Direct Smart Dongle. This can be plugged into almost any Victron device an provides a bluetooth connection. It is much stronger than the one provided by the 100/50. So, I hope the Fall projects are done.

By the way, some of the owners of the Victron Smartshunt have complained about the weak Bluetooth; adding a Smart Dongle will solve the problem.

[Patandlinda]

Originally Posted by Vermilye

Additional info:

After firing things back up, everything worked, but I discovered an interesting difference between the 100/30 & the 100/50. The Bluetooth signal from the Victron 100/50 is much weaker than from the 100/30. So weak, I can't read it from the truck. Since I like to check on how the charging process is going while on the road, I looked for a solution. Of course Victron has one; all you need to do is pay an additional $49.30 for a Victron Energy VE.Direct Smart Dongle. This can be plugged into almost any Victron device an provides a bluetooth connection. It is much stronger than the one provided by the 100/50. So, I hope the Fall projects are done.

By the way, some of the owners of the Victron Smartshunt have complained about the weak Bluetooth; adding a Smart Dongle will solve the problem.

Jon can testify yes the dongle works great . I can be sitting in the house and get my Victron readings for our Victron battery monitor and Victron solar charger . Pat

[marant]

Replaced the sewer hose tube with an 8" one. Now my new Camco Rhinoflex sewer hose will fit, as it was too large for the old one. (Not mentioning why the old tube was no longer functional.......something about not chocking the wheels in Olympic National Park, Hoh River. oops).

Was not impressed with the way the old tube was held on, so used bolts as ETI had but also used zip ties around the brackets. Then noticed that ETI is apparently using the same idea on new trailers.

[Centex]

Originally Posted by Vermilye

Additional info:

After firing things back up, everything worked, but I discovered an interesting difference between the 100/30 & the 100/50. The Bluetooth signal from the Victron 100/50 is much weaker than from the 100/30. So weak, I can't read it from the truck. Since I like to check on how the charging process is going while on the road, I looked for a solution. Of course Victron has one; all you need to do is pay an additional $49.30 for a Victron Energy VE.Direct Smart Dongle. This can be plugged into almost any Victron device an provides a bluetooth connection. It is much stronger than the one provided by the 100/50. So, I hope the Fall projects are done.

By the way, some of the owners of the Victron Smartshunt have complained about the weak Bluetooth; adding a Smart Dongle will solve the problem.

So if one finds BT range lacking from multiple Victron devices (e.g. both an MPPT 150/60 SmartSolar controller and a BMV-712 BT monitor with shunt), one must add the dongle to both devices, is that correct?

(I have both of those pending installation, now with fingers-crossed that the BT will at least communicate as far as my truck cab. We'll see soon enough ....)

As always, thanks for the tips and insights, Jon

[Vermilye]

Originally Posted by Centex

So if one finds BT range lacking from multiple Victron devices (e.g. both an MPPT 150/60 SmartSolar controller and a BMV-712 BT monitor with shunt), one must add the dongle to both devices, is that correct?

(I have both of those pending installation, now with fingers-crossed that the BT will at least communicate as far as my truck cab. We'll see soon enough ....)

As always, thanks for the tips and insights, Jon

I don't know if you need one for each device, but I suspect so. When I added the dongle to the 100/50, it showed up on the app as the dongle name with a sub name of the 100/50. I did rename it to make it a bit easier to identify as the 100/50. If I'm close enough, both the 100/50 and the dongle version shows up in the app.

Since the 712 has always had enough signal to reach the truck (and house), I don't know if adding the dongle to the 100/50 improved the signal of the 712.

[escape artist]

Hi: All... Had my local auto glass co. come out to reset a loft window. We've had a lot of rain and there was a pesky drip in the bottom corner of the window. Right at the lower screw of the shade bracket. R&R and reseal was $82. plus tx. Took them about an hour, but now its not raining. Alf
escape artist N.S. of Lake Erie

[Centex]

Originally Posted by Vermilye

I don't know if you need one for each device, but I suspect so. When I added the dongle to the 100/50, it showed up on the app as the dongle name with a sub name of the 100/50. I did rename it to make it a bit easier to identify as the 100/50. If I'm close enough, both the 100/50 and the dongle version shows up in the app.

Since the 712 has always had enough signal to reach the truck (and house), I don't know if adding the dongle to the 100/50 improved the signal of the 712.

Gotchya, thanks again Jon

[Iowa Dave]

Today I checked the air pressure in the tires (all 5) and checked the lug nut torque for 95 ft lbs. all right on. Checked the bolts on my propane rack and changed out a tank that was less than full. Put my tire inflator, battery booster pack and bottle Jack in the Highlander. Shouldn’t need them now. Had an extra 6 inch 1/2 drive extension in with the tools. Took it out and put it in the big toolbox. Armstrong USA. Nice tools in their day. I just have a few from Rita’s uncle’s estate. Most of my stuff is SK, some Proto and some older Craftsman. I like nice tools with high polish.
Iowa Dave

[kathytony1985]

Got rid of the big backstabbers and replaced with short ones. Converted the wardrobe to a pantry with Elfa system from The Container Store. Thank you for the supply list and pictures Bobwirtz!

[richling]

Hi, I think I put the disconnect on the wrong thing.....there are 2 sets of wires going into the controller solar panel ports on the controller. Thinner and thicker. I did the disconnect on the thinner ones but am unsure if I should have done the thicker ones.

What are your thoughts?

Rich

[Vermilye]

Originally Posted by richling

Hi, I think I put the disconnect on the wrong thing.....there are 2 sets of wires going into the controller solar panel ports on the controller. Thinner and thicker. I did the disconnect on the thinner ones but am unsure if I should have done the thicker ones.

What are your thoughts?

Rich

Without actually tracing the wiring, there is no way to tell for sure, BUT I suspect the thicker wires are the #10 going to the roof panel (they have thicker insulation) and the smaller go to a solar port designed for a portable panel. If you don't have a solar port, no idea. I'm assuming that both sets of wires are going to the input connections in the controller...

[Centex]

Originally Posted by Vermilye

Without actually tracing the wiring, there is no way to tell for sure, BUT I suspect the thicker wires are the #10 going to the roof panel (they have thicker insulation) and the smaller go to a solar port designed for a portable panel. If you don't have a solar port, no idea. I'm assuming that both sets of wires are going to the input connections in the controller...

Working with those assumptions, couldn't Rich safely put DC voltmeter probes to each pair of wires to see which are "hot" with any voltage while the roof panels are in the sun?

The "hot" pair being the ones for installation of a disconnect for the roof panels?

[oldwave]

Originally Posted by richling

Hi, I think I put the disconnect on the wrong thing.....there are 2 sets of wires going into the controller solar panel ports on the controller. Thinner and thicker. I did the disconnect on the thinner ones but am unsure if I should have done the thicker ones.

What are your thoughts?

Rich

Thinner ones are probably to the battery and dc loads
The cut off should have been just before the controller input
They are marked 10
I think the stock wires coming out to the loads are 8 but not as large