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08-05-2018, 09:44 PM
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#21
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Terrace, British Columbia
Trailer: 2012 Escape 19
Posts: 378
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If you're not attaching the insulation directly to the fridge sides, isn't there still a way for warm air to get into the compartment and affect the fridge? Or, do you make sure the entire cavity is filled between the fridge and the trailer walls? I'm thinking it may be a bit difficult to re-insert the fridge into the compartment without damaging the insulation if this is the case.
Doug
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08-05-2018, 10:00 PM
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#22
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Fraser Valley, British Columbia
Trailer: 2012 Escape "Classic" 5.0 SA
Posts: 554
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NuthatchBC
If you're not attaching the insulation directly to the fridge sides, isn't there still a way for warm air to get into the compartment and affect the fridge? Or, do you make sure the entire cavity is filled between the fridge and the trailer walls? I'm thinking it may be a bit difficult to re-insert the fridge into the compartment without damaging the insulation if this is the case.
Doug
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The very slight gap that I had at the back (1/8" all around maybe) I sealed with aluminum tape once the fridge was installed accessing the fridge back from the top and bottom vent locations.
Barry
__________________
Photography website: https://bjustice.zenfolio.com
2012 Escape "Classic" 5.0 SA / 2017 F150, 2.7 EcoBoost 4X4 Supercab
Former trailers: 2005 Escape 17B / 1972 Boler 13'
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08-05-2018, 11:11 PM
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#23
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Commercial Member
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Hillsboro, Oregon
Trailer: 2014 Escape 21 - "Felicity"
Posts: 2,945
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Oh joy! Another major project for this winter season! Anyone have a link to the highest R-value foam board?
__________________
Charlie Y
Need custom storage to your design? Don't drill holes!
www.RVWidgetWorks.com
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08-05-2018, 11:48 PM
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#24
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Site Team
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Canyon Lake, Texas
Trailer: 2015 19 "Past Tents", 2021 F150 Lariat 2.7L EB
Posts: 10,222
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tractors1
Oh joy! Another major project for this winter season! Anyone have a link to the highest R-value foam board?
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If you're talking about around 1/2" thick polystyrene board, they are all about R-3. Takes about 3/4" of thickness to get to R-5.
__________________
"You can't buy happiness, but you can buy an RV. And that is pretty close."
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08-06-2018, 01:51 AM
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#25
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Edmonton, Alberta
Trailer: 1979 Boler B1700
Posts: 14,935
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tractors1
Another major project for this winter season! Anyone have a link to the highest R-value foam board?
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All extruded polystyrene (XPS) foam board (e.g Styrofoam™, Foamular, etc) will have about the same R-value for the same thickness... just avoid expanded polystyrene "beadboard". To get higher than XPS, you would need to go with another foam type, such as polyisocyanurate; it's easier to just use XPS.
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08-06-2018, 05:48 AM
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#26
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Central, Pennsylvania
Trailer: Escape#5 2022 E19
Posts: 26,268
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Tdf-Texas....
I'm curious as to why you left an exposed piece of fiberglass shell? Why not cover the entire area? Just wondering if the different temperature differential could cause condensation dripping?
__________________
Jim
Sometime life gets in the way of living.......
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08-06-2018, 07:23 AM
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#27
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Baytown, Texas
Trailer: 2017 21' Escape - upgraded version
Posts: 2,697
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cpaharley2008
Tdf-Texas....
I'm curious as to why you left an exposed piece of fiberglass shell? Why not cover the entire area? Just wondering if the different temperature differential could cause condensation dripping?
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The white shown at the top of the cavity is a plastic access panel, the white at the bottom is the fiberglass bottom that the fridge sets on. For the top panel, there wasn't enough room between the top of the fridge and the panel to add more insulation as the top of the fridge has insulation already on it. For the fiberglass bottom, all I could do is lay a strip of foam seal along the bottom back of the fridge once it was reinstalled to keep air out and keep any water from going under the fridge.
I also used the same foam to attach all along the back edges of the fridge so any gap was sealed between the fridge and the cavity.
__________________
Normal people believe that if it ain't broke, don't fix it.
Engineers believe in fixing it so that it never breaks.
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08-15-2018, 02:30 PM
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#28
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Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Los Gatos, California
Trailer: 2011 Escape 19'
Posts: 20
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Styrofoam is highly flammable and not heat resistant and the fumes from burning are quite toxic. Generally not a good material near an open flame.
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08-15-2018, 04:46 PM
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#29
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Ventura County, California
Trailer: 2013 19 Escape
Posts: 7,206
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Peggy & Dennis
Styrofoam is highly flammable and not heat resistant and the fumes from burning are quite toxic. Generally not a good material near an open flame.
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Our refrigerator instalation had a rubber gasket going all around right up to the refrigerator sides ,separating from the rear combustion at the back of refrigerator . Pat
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08-15-2018, 05:08 PM
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#30
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Central, Pennsylvania
Trailer: Escape#5 2022 E19
Posts: 26,268
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Yes, similar to a garage door seal, the seal goes around the entire unit so when it is installed the rubber flap seals the 3 sides.
__________________
Jim
Sometime life gets in the way of living.......
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