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Old 11-26-2019, 01:00 PM   #421
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Well, never mind! I read the instructions, found the reset button and all is right with my world today! I was hoping it hadnít run too long empty.
Alright ! Good for you ! Pat
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Old 11-27-2019, 12:30 PM   #422
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I finished my tongue jack removable handle. No more having to be super careful lowering the tailgate.

I need to open the top of the fridge vent so I can drop my solar panel cables down. The trailer is too close to the fence to allow me to use a ladder. So I had a choice, move the trailer or build a down and dirty step ladder that would fit the 10" space.

It's cold weather and I didn't want to move the trailer so a crude ladder it was.

If it warms up a bit today my next project is opening up the fridge vent.

Ron
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Old 11-27-2019, 01:53 PM   #423
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I like that handle Ron, it is a good theft deterrent also. How hard was it making the metal handle and wooden knob and how is it all attached. You may want to make a separate thread as I'm sure others may want the same info, thanks.
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Old 11-27-2019, 06:22 PM   #424
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I need to open the top of the fridge vent so I can drop my solar panel cables down.
If it warms up a bit today my next project is opening up the fridge vent.
Ron
Very interested in hearing how hard it is to remove the fridge vent. Mine looks like it has piles of goop over each retaining screw.
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Old 11-27-2019, 06:33 PM   #425
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Very interested in hearing how hard it is to remove the fridge vent. Mine looks like it has piles of goop over each retaining screw.
Yup, there's a #2 Robertson down the hole...
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Old 11-27-2019, 09:54 PM   #426
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Very interested in hearing how hard it is to remove the fridge vent. Mine looks like it has piles of goop over each retaining screw.
I got as far as attacking the goop before darkness fell.

Quite a difference between the way they did it in 2014 and now. Previously they squirted a dab of Donna D's favorite material down each hole. Didn't work all that well. Even though my trailer was only a few months old you can see that there was water ingress down the screw threads. The silicone plugs were easy to pop out.

I did remove the top of the goop. The large area on top was firm and I could pry it up. The surprise was that the material going down the recess was still soft and sticky. So it's sort of a two step process, pry off the solid stuff and dig out the soft stuff.

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Old 11-27-2019, 10:01 PM   #427
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Quite a difference between the way they did it in 2014 and now. Previously they squirted a dab of Donna D's favorite material down each hole. Didn't work all that well. Even though my trailer was only a few months old you can see that there was water ingress down the screw threads. The silicone plugs were easy to pop out.
I'm appalled!
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Old 11-27-2019, 10:15 PM   #428
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That is a very interesting picture. Worth sending to Karl I think. Glad I keep mine under cover and donít live in a rain forest. Will have to replace mine with stainless when I get around to my project. However I might want to move up the project before the rusty screws snap off on removal.
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Old 11-27-2019, 10:42 PM   #429
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I got as far as attacking the goop before darkness fell.

Quite a difference between the way they did it in 2014 and now. Previously they squirted a dab of Donna D's favorite material down each hole. Didn't work all that well. Even though my trailer was only a few months old you can see that there was water ingress down the screw threads. The silicone plugs were easy to pop out.


Ron
No, I was showing the 2014 way. As I said the Proflex that they use now, although not looking all that good from a visual point of view, has remained soft and sticky in the hole. I doubt that any water leaks down now.

I'll see tomorrow if the screws are s/s.

Ron
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Old 11-27-2019, 11:10 PM   #430
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Ordered a 2020 19' if that counts
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Old 11-28-2019, 10:01 AM   #431
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well, congrats on the momentous occasion! any particular customization or options? will you be using mainly in Alaska?
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Old 11-28-2019, 10:49 AM   #432
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No, I was showing the 2014 way. As I said the Proflex that they use now, although not looking all that good from a visual point of view, has remained soft and sticky in the hole. I doubt that any water leaks down now.

I'll see tomorrow if the screws are s/s.

Ron
Thanks for the clarification.
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Old 11-28-2019, 05:47 PM   #433
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Spent the morning making the rounds of the big box stores looking for a 24" tv that uses a power adaptor. Our last tv, nominally 16 volt input, worked well on the trailer voltage. Drives me crazy. There's an AC-DC adaptor that fits at least 4 different models of 24" Insignia. Yet the one on Amazon isn't one of them.

Removed the fridge vent cap, cleaned out the holes and painted it. Varsol seems to soften the Proflex a bit and I had a small gouge left over from the days when I used to, ah, inset metal parts into black walnut. Did a better job than a screw driver would have.

The screws are steel, not s/s but they're in better shape than the ones in my 19 were. Maybe Donna's right, there are better sealants than silicone.

I'm a little disappointed with the screen used in the vent. The trailer is only 2 1/2 months old and rust is already well established. The screen in my previous trailer rusted completely through. Not ETIs fault, they don't have much choice in what they use but pretty poor quality.

Happy to see that there's reflectix on the back wall rather than bare plywood as before. That should cut down on potential problems with bare plywood exposed to moist air. The condenser coils are also much closer to the vent so hopefully that provides a shorter path for the warm air to escape.

Ron
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Old 11-28-2019, 06:23 PM   #434
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If it were me, I would remove that rusty screen and replace with plastic/fg screen. Smaller holes for better insect control and no rust. Or, if heat is an issue, use ss screen, fine mesh. Thanks for the update...
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Old 11-28-2019, 07:05 PM   #435
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Fine screen like window screen, restricts air flow. My fridge has enough problems without taking the chance of giving it yet another. If Ron's is the same as mine is, the screen is molded into the plastic of the vent, you'd have to either cut it out or just lay the fine screen over it, not that I'm going to.
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Old 11-28-2019, 07:05 PM   #436
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If it were me, I would remove that rusty screen and replace with plastic/fg screen. Smaller holes for better insect control and no rust. Or, if heat is an issue, use ss screen, fine mesh. Thanks for the update...
I agree Ron ,I would change screws and screening to stainless steel . Sure looks ugly in a short bit of time . Greased the toilet rubber seal with plumbers grease yesterday . Itís Fred Ďs fault .Now as soon as it stops raining check out my refrigerator screen etc. this forum gives me more work ! Pat
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Old 11-28-2019, 07:14 PM   #437
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Fine screen like window screen, restricts air flow. My fridge has enough problems without taking the chance of giving it yet another. If Ron's is the same as mine is, the screen is molded into the plastic of the vent, you'd have to either cut it out or just lay the fine screen over it, not that I'm going to.
Bob there should be screen in stainless that doesnít restrict air flow which is a yes very important . But the rust ! Pat
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Old 11-28-2019, 07:21 PM   #438
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It appears to take some effort to see that rust.
Why worry?
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Old 11-28-2019, 08:50 PM   #439
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It appears to take some effort to see that rust.
Why worry?
Glenn Now I am curious . If it is there I will fix it . It is just me . Pat
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Old 11-28-2019, 09:33 PM   #440
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One obvious reason is the water leaks can cause problems if they reach the bare plywood below.

But another question is: what exactly is the screen supposed to do? Most insects could get through the mesh and down below there isn't a metal screen and if a rodent couldn't squeeze through the existing openings they could enlarge them a bit by chewing on them.

If I had a suitable s/s screen I'd cut out the existing one leaving a 1/2" around the perimeter, lay the new one over it and fasten it with pieces of the existing one. Since I have the area opened up I'll probably just brush it with Tremclad. That should preserve it for awhile.

Ron
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